How to choose a car compressor for inflating tires

10 best auto compressors

Considering the abundance of car compressors for inflating tires on the market, it is easy for the average buyer to get confused, so we offer a review of the best car compressors of 2018-2019, according to reviews from experts and car enthusiasts.

Any motorist will have to deal with minor repairs on the road: things like a punctured tire cannot be insured. But if previously the driver’s faithful companion was a hand pump, which at the same time strengthened the main muscle groups while inflating the wheel, now motorists have a wide selection of automobile compressors at their disposal. Moreover, it is so rich that it is quite difficult to understand the assortment. What should you first pay attention to when standing at a car store window and deciding which car compressor is best to choose?

Basic parameters of a car compressor

Some of these parameters can be found in the compressor’s data sheet; some, as they say, you will have to determine by feeling:

• Performance: In this case, it is not only the speed at which the compressor fully inflates your tires that is important. When inflating a completely flat tire that has fallen off the hump (the annular protrusion of the disk that holds the bead of a tubeless tire), you may encounter the fact that an insufficient compressor simply will not be able to compensate for air leaks and will not be able to push the bead back into place.
• Connection type: as we understood in the previous paragraph, we need a powerful compressor, which, in turn, needs a powerful engine. Accordingly, energy consumption will also increase, so you should be skeptical about models that are plugged into the cigarette lighter socket - either their declared power is only indicated on the packaging, or constant replacement of blown fuses will become inevitable. Connecting the car compressor with crocodile clips directly to the battery is the best option, but only if your car does not require disassembling half of the car to access the terminals.
• Cord length: perhaps the biggest disappointment in a car compressor can be the discovery of the fact that the cord is simply not long enough to reach the rear wheels of the car. In addition to the length of the cord, also evaluate its rigidity - if stretched strongly, a rigid twisted cord will tear the plug or “crocodiles” out of place; a regular type cable is preferable, although it is not so convenient to store
• Gauge Accuracy: It is difficult to judge the accuracy of readings without a reference gauge, so pay attention first to how easy the gauge scale is to read. On small pressure gauges, the needle can easily overlap the divisions - a difference in pressure of up to 0.2 bar between different wheels will be inevitable. Try to avoid pressure gauges with double digitization: you definitely won’t have to set the pressure in pounds per square inch (psi), and the additional scale will get in the way quite a bit.
• Duration of continuous operation: this parameter must be evaluated in conjunction with productivity. For example, if you have an SUV or crossover with high-profile 16-inch tires, the low-power compressor will not only pump the wheels for a very long time - it will also simply overheat.

Which car compressor is best? How to choose tire inflation

Perhaps the most popular device for your car is a tire inflation compressor. Many people also use it to inflate boats, balls, and other things. In general, the thing is not only necessary, but simply necessary, especially on long roads. BUT here’s the problem, now there are simply a huge number of different types and types on the market, ranging from the simplest and most compact to powerful and almost professional options. Which one is better and which one to choose so as not to make a mistake and not overpay, let’s figure it out...

THE CONTENT OF THE ARTICLE

• Hand-foot options
• Electric compressors - the beginning
• Diaphragm compressor
• Piston compressor
• About the manufacturer and brand
• VIDEO VERSION

Previously, compressors were only hand or foot operated, that is, they used human physical strength. Now people are spoiled and no longer want to “pump up” their arms and legs because there are electric models. BUT not all, as they say, are the same, and often the price tag goes into the abnormal zone (5 - 6,000 rubles), here you will think ten times before you buy. Today I will give you some tips on how to sort through this chaos and still choose a normal compressor.

Hand-foot options

I’ll start with them because they were really the first. There are only two types:

• Manual option . Very simple and easy to repair. A piston runs in a hollow cylinder, which pumps air into the tires. Now practically not used, it was popular in the 70s - 90s of the last century. However, even now you can find

• Foot type . Probably everyone has seen it, some even have it in stock (by the way, I have one). Here we simply press our foot on a special “pedal” and the air is pumped. A big advantage is also its spaciousness, compactness, and the presence of a pressure gauge.

Both pumps do not use energy (powered by physical force) and you can inflate the wheels even on a dead battery or you do not need to start the engine. They are also CHEAP, which is also an additional plus.

I will say this - the manual version went away only because it was large, and it was not always convenient to carry it in the trunk. But the foot version is still on sale, and it can be a VERY good alternative to newfangled electric compressors.

Electric compressors - the beginning

To begin with, I want to say that there is a very large “run” here, both in characteristics and performance (we will definitely talk about this below). There are cheap Chinese devices, there are more productive ones, and there are professional ones.

And you know what - I watched a bunch of videos on the Internet on this topic. And not one of them really tells you how to choose! There are stupid things - “how much can it pump”, “what kind of body”, “what pressure can it hold”. BUT is it really possible that a person “unskilled” in the question will come and really ask all this? OF COURSE NOT! He will choose with his heart, his ruble and sometimes his logic. So I will build my story based on this.

Diaphragm compressor

These are often the cheapest devices. As a rule, they are inexpensive, you can easily find up to 1000 rubles. They are compact and can be put away anywhere (I saw a video on the Internet that some types even fit into the glove compartment).

The operating principle is based on the oscillation of a membrane (which is made of high-strength material), using a special drive it moves up and down, thus building up pressure. The drive is based on plastic parts and an electric motor (the design is far from standard). The body is made of plastic (the only metal part is the motor).

There are more disadvantages to a membrane compressor than advantages. YES, and they are often made by our “Chinese comrades” whose quality is frankly disappointing:

• Not as productive, usually 3 to 10 liters per minute
• It can work with pressure up to 3-4 ATM; it cannot handle more pressure.
• If the membrane breaks, it will not really work. And often replacing it is very difficult and expensive, the cost reaches the price of a new unit.
• Low knot strength. Fail quickly
• Usually there is nothing really in the sets, not even bags
• Cannot be used under prolonged loads

Personally, I had several of these. I bought the first one myself (due to inexperience), without even inflating the tires often, it worked for me for about six months, then it broke down. I took it apart and the membrane broke. The second - third, I was given as a gift and won at a gas station. The one that won broke down after three weeks (there wasn’t even a brand on it, just the brand of the gas station and that’s it), the one that was given as a gift also worked for about six months (maybe more and died).

What I noticed is that they do not work well in the cold and it was after such “pumping” that they failed. I think the membrane does not tolerate frost well.

I DO NOT RECOMMEND YOU TO TAKE THE MEMBRANE TYPE! However, their reliability is low, despite the low price.

How to recognize them - ask the seller (the easiest way), or look at the case; they are often made in a plastic (flat case), less often in a vertical plastic case. They cost from 500 to 1000, less often about 1500 rubles (although I have seen them for 400 in one large supermarket).

Piston compressor

This option is the best. However, there is again a big difference here. There are small and compact options, medium ones, and there are the largest and most productive ones. Accordingly, prices vary widely.

How they are designed - in fact, it is the same “foot type”, only the drive comes from an electric motor. It pushes the piston inside, which moves in the cylinder, thereby increasing pressure. The piston itself (and its drive) must be made of very high quality metal, usually alloy steel. BUT cheap manufacturers often neglect this.

ANOTHER IMPORTANT POINT is the body of the working cylinder - it must be metal! IT IS IMPORTANT! Personally, I’ve come across cheap options with a plastic body, these won’t work for long

What parameters still need to be looked at:

• Productivity . Usually measured in "liters per hour". If you have a passenger car with a wheel diameter of 12-13-14-15-16 inches, 10 liters may be enough. But if your wheels are large, say from 17 and above, and even wider, it is better to look for a more productive model that pumps from 20 and above (personally, I have 50l). No, OF COURSE, a large wheel will inflate even the smallest compressor, BUT it will get very hot (which can affect its service life), and it will take a VERY long time to inflate, so it’s worth overpaying 300 - 500 rubles and getting a more powerful one.

• Pressure. As I already wrote, membrane ones hold at best 3-4 ATM (atmospheres). But the “piston” ones can hold 20 ATM. But I will say this - for the average person you don’t need that much (even 10 ATM will be easy), because the pressure in the wheel is often about 2-3 ATM.
• Type of food. There are those that are connected to the cigarette lighter, and there are those that are connected to the battery through special clamps. Everything is simple here - those that are connected to the cigarette lighter are not so productive (but I emphasize again that they are often sufficient). Which are connected to the battery terminals , have high power (therefore, their connection to the cigarette lighter is not possible)

• Overheat protection. To prevent it from burning out, many manufacturers install an overheating protection system. That is, if it works for a long time and reaches its maximum temperature, it will simply stop and stop working.

• Frame. Here everyone chooses what they need, personally, I need a compact compressor, that’s why I took this one.
• Type of connection to the wheel. There are simply slip-on ones, that is, you simply put them on the nipple, and there are screw-on ones (that is, a threaded connection). Personally, I am in favor of the thread, because it sits more firmly on the nipple and does not dangle.

• Pressure gauge. Personally, I’m more familiar with ATM (atmospheres) than, say, PSI, so it’s worth taking it with just such a dial, or with a combined one.

• Accessories. Some manufacturers make bags or cases for their pumps, this is a big plus, it will not gather dust. Some also have various attachments for inflating boats, balls, and more.

• Fuse. It is desirable that it be changed quickly and without problems; personally, on my compressor it is in the cigarette lighter socket.
• Guarantee. This is a really important question. If the manufacturer is serious, he gives at least 3 years. And this, in my opinion, is the required minimum; if it is given less, say only 1 year, then it is not worth watching.

About the manufacturer and brand

Separately, I wanted to talk about the brand. Personally, I have a DAEWOO compressor (my wife just gave it to me because it was a good kit), now there are many different companies, BERKUT, Aggressor, VIMPEL, etc., on the Internet you can find about 30 - 50 different brands (not counting "wild China")

Which to choose? I won’t advise you on just one; nevertheless, there are many worthy and really good, even domestic brands. The most important thing is DO NOT TAKE “UNDERGROUND CHINA”, take manufacturers who are “well-known”, who have a good guarantee, high-quality assembly (you will understand when you pick it up) and warranty support in your city (so as not to go to the neighboring city).

For the average driver, you need a piston, with a good kit (at least a bag), a metal body and a screw-on nipple, holds a pressure of 5 - 10 ATM, a capacity of 20 - 30 liters, a 3-year warranty, and a really normal brand. PRICE up to 3000, but not lower than 1500 rubles. I believe that almost anything on the list in stores will work for a really long time.

Now let's watch the video version.

This is where I end, I think it was useful, subscribe to our channel and website, there will be many more different videos and articles. SINCERELY YOURS AUTOBLOGGER.

( 14 votes, average: 4.21 out of 5)

Which car compressor is better to choose?

AutoOt.ru » Auto gadgets » Which car compressor is better to choose?

Previously, car tires were inflated with a conventional pump. Most often it was foot-operated or even hand-held. This activity took quite a lot of time and effort. Now everything has become much easier with the advent of automotive compressors.

It is important for every car owner to have this simple device in their garage; it is not very expensive and can last for quite a long time. which car compressor is better to choose and not make a mistake.

What is a car compressor?

This is a fairly simple device, but the durability of the device depends on the quality of its main elements. So, let's figure out what the main details of the device are:

• Frame;
• Motor powered by electricity;
• Pressure gauge for measurements;
• Cylinder.

These are the main devices of a modern car tire inflator . Let's talk in more detail about each of them.

So, let's start with the engine. This is the heart of any device. The engine is powered by either a built-in battery or mains power, connecting to the car battery through the cigarette lighter.

The compressor body must be made of metal, the legs can be made of plastic. The pressure gauge can be digital or mechanical.

Types of devices and their differences

Piston compressor

Its name itself speaks about how air is produced in this device. This occurs due to the piston, which makes reciprocating movements inside the chamber. This compressor has a connecting rod and a shaft, so it’s these parts that you should pay close attention to.

The best compressor would be one in which the connecting rod is located on the engine shaft. If this part has a plastic connection to the boulder, then such a device will not last long.

You should also definitely pay attention to what material the parts are made of. If it is galvanized, plastic and other fragile materials, then there is no point in spending money on such a product. It will last only a short time, and no one will want to take on the task of repairing it.

A piston pump is good due to the following qualities:

• It is very powerful and is suitable for servicing even trucks and special equipment of any type.
• It is convenient to inflate tires with this device in any weather.
• If the auto compressor is chosen correctly, it will last for many years.

Among the disadvantages are:

• If a compressor breaks down, repairing such a compressor is either very expensive, or it cannot be repaired at all.
• The need to monitor operation without letting the device overheat. Due to high load it may break.
• To select this type of device, you need to approach the issue more carefully.

Diaphragm compressor

The operation of such a device is ensured by a membrane, which, like the piston in piston-type compressors, performs reciprocating movements.

The membrane is made of rubber, and this is its significant advantage. The fact is that if it becomes unusable, it can be replaced very easily, moreover, the part will not cost much. Due to this, such pumps rarely break down.

So, among the advantages we can note the following positive qualities:

• The durability of such a device is undeniable. It will last a long time;
• If a diaphragm compressor breaks, it can be repaired, and replacing the diaphragm is a simple procedure.

But it also has disadvantages.

• Firstly , the power of such a tire compressor is much lower than that of a piston compressor.
• Secondly , in cold weather such a pump will not be able to help the car enthusiast. It must be used in a heated garage. On the highway in the cold it will be absolutely useless.

Thus, taking into account all these nuances, we can draw initial conclusions about which car pump to choose . Owners of SUVs who would like to choose a diaphragm pump should not be upset. 3-4 atmospheres are the norm for him, and they are quite enough.

Additional features and what to look for

Knowledge limited only to the types of auto compressors is not sufficient to make the right choice, so you need to study the device in as much detail as possible. So, let's take a closer look at other parts of the device.

Initially, it was talked about the mechanical types of this device and the digital ones. Without a doubt, digital pressure gauges are unrivaled; they work faster and give more accurate results, which are immediately displayed on the screen. If it comes to a pressure gauge with an arrow, then problems will definitely make themselves felt:

• The inaccuracy of such a device is explained by the fact that the needle vibrates quite strongly.
• In addition, sometimes you have to wait a long time for the needle to stop and show the result. It is not comfortable.
• The error of such a device is very high.

The passport for a compressor for a car must contain data on the pressure gauge. The error will also be indicated there. The lower it is, the better. If the device has already been purchased, you can check its accuracy at a service station.

An example of a device with a good quality digital pressure gauge is the Kachok K70 . Its pressure gauge has two scales.

Power cord

It is worth paying attention to it, because the work largely depends on it. Whatever the power supply to the device, the wire must be quite long. If the wire is initially short, you will have to extend it, and this is not always convenient.

The nutrition itself may vary. Let's consider all the options:

1. Car cigarette lighter pump. It belongs to those types that operate from the car network. It has average power and is quite easy to use.
2. A car pump powered by a car battery. It is similar to the one that runs from the cigarette lighter, but is more powerful and can pump up all four tires without much difficulty.
3. Battery powered auto compressor. The power of such a device does not last long, and only in this is it inferior to its competitors. For small cars it may be quite acceptable.
4. Combined models.

When wondering how to choose a car compressor for inflating tires , you should pay attention to one small but extremely important detail.

Today, cigarette lighter pumps are very common. When choosing one, you need to pay attention to the current strength of the cigarette lighter fuse.

As an example, consider a Tornado . Tornado AC-580 is an example of an autocompressor powered by a cigarette lighter, one of the disadvantages of which may be a somewhat short wire.

This is a common problem with many devices. It is best to give preference to a brand with a cable of approximately 3 meters.

These are all the nuances regarding the power cord.

Basic indicators

Manufacturers first of all indicate data with basic indicators in the passport. There are reasons why they are worth studying carefully. Let's look at two indicators:

• Device performance.
• Maximum pressure.

The unit of measurement for productivity is liters per minute. The higher this indicator, the larger the tires it can inflate. But you should not buy a high-performance compressor if you do not plan to work with large-diameter tires.

As a good example, consider compressors produced by the TANI . Their products under the BERKUT brand for cars are produced with the radius of the recommended tires indicated right in the name.

As for the maximum pressure indicator, it is most often overestimated and indicated incorrectly. To be completely honest, this indicator is hardly worth taking into account at all. You should only pay attention to values ​​that are too low.

Auto compressor test, video:

Availability of a receiver

A receiver is a device that allows you to accumulate air. Popular manufacturers of pumping equipment have in stock such models with a receiver of 3 liters or more.

These models are used:

• For tire fitting;
• For airbrushing;
• To create a car pneumatic system.

All these features will appeal to professionals. An example of such a device is the Aggressor AGR-8LT . From the name it is clear that the receiver is designed to pump 8 liters.

Disabling the device

It is best to purchase an auto compressor with automatic shut-off . This is very convenient when the sensor triggers itself and there is no need to control the inflation. Also a good function is to control overheating in piston units.

To avoid breakdowns, you should give preference to a device with a temperature control function. This way you can kill two birds with one stone.

Auto compressor rating:

Additional functions

It's also worth paying attention to the little things. There are quite a lot of them now, and they are all designed to make the car owner’s work easier. Let's look at the most common "gadgets" that cannot be ignored.

Thus, choosing a car pump is a serious and not entirely simple task. Be sure to pay attention to the warranty of the device. It should be, because all manufacturing companies control the quality of their products. In order to make the right choice, you need to have a good understanding of what functions the device will perform.

Car compressor test: ranking the 7 best models

Humps (English hump - elevation, hillock) are called annular protrusions along the edges of the wheel rim.

The main purpose of humps is to reliably fix the tire bead in turns, preventing depressurization.

Any compressor can pump up a flat tire. One is faster, the other is slower, but they will let us down: we haven’t seen frankly unsuitable models for a long time. Therefore, the buyer usually chooses a product that, say, will fit in the spare wheel well. Or focusing on design: bright and cute. And most often they take what is cheaper.

Well, what if the tire went flat? So much so that you got off the seat called the hump? There are protrusions on the wheel rims that hold the inflated tire. Compressor manufacturers love to boast about the high performance of their products, but the buyer will not count liters per minute! But he will immediately appreciate the ability to return the tire to its place. And this is interesting to check.

WHICH CAR COMPRESSOR IS BETTER: TEST RESULTS

The performance of the compressors was assessed according to several criteria. We measured the inflation time of a wheel of size 215/65R16 when powered by a voltage of 13.8 V from a network source with a fixed current strength. Noise measurements were carried out with a Bruel & Kjær 2230 sound level meter.

To evaluate the performance of the compressors, the time the tire sat on the disc's hump was measured. The rated performance (l/min) is not very informative; moreover, during inflation, due to natural leaks, some of the air comes out, but the landing speed on the hump immediately indicates the real performance.

Additionally, the accuracy of the pressure gauges was assessed by comparing them with a reference device.

We decided to take the most powerful models for testing, connected to an interior socket. This is more convenient than crawling with “crocodiles” under the hood, and not every modern car has a visible battery. At the same time, we’ll check whether the compressors have blown a fuse and whether they estimate the pressure correctly.

All compressors performed their main task well: no one was afraid of landing on the hump. But where do such bad pressure gauges come from is a question! Only one participant showed the correct result, the rest lied. And it's a shame. As for energy consumption, none of the subjects had an exorbitant appetite, and therefore the fuse should not be affected. We give our opinion about each model separately.

Which compressor is the best? And what is more important - the accuracy of the pressure gauge or the actual performance? We decided to highlight three clear leaders for ourselves. The remaining places were distributed in proportion to “talents”.

7. alca

The declared indicators are 20 l/min; 7 bar (100 PSI); 15 A

price, rub. 1800

Convenient and compact. The plastic casing protects against burns. To connect to the valve, a threaded coupling with a plastic tip is used: screwing is convenient. But the garland of adapters hanging on it gets in the way. The wire is long enough to reach the rear wheel. The hose is soft and comfortable, but gets very hot during operation. The pressure gauge is built-in, with a double scale, and its readings are inaccurate: at a pressure of 2 bar it shows 1.75. In terms of time - the worst result. It’s also definitely the last one when it comes to seating tires on humps.

6. Defort DCC-265-Lt

The stated figures are 38 l/min; 10 bar; 15 A

Price, rub. 1511

The built-in LED flashlight immediately went on strike. The pressure gauge is small and the font is hard to read. In this case, preference is given to the PSI scale, which is inconvenient for Russians. Accuracy is low. But there are adapters for inflating balls, balls, etc. The appearance is quite decent, and practically does not heat up during operation. But the tire takes a long time to inflate, and all of the above advantages are secondary.

5. JUCK K70

The declared indicators are 40 l/min; 10 atm; 13 A

price, rub. 2600

A convenient body with a handle, bright colors, a molded plastic hose with a well-thought-out folding pattern - in general, it looks decent. Pressure gauge – with a monochrome LCD display. The controls are convenient and clear. The required pressure is set using the keys. Once it is reached, the compressor switches off - good! Alas, the readings are far from reality: 1.8 atm instead of the real 2.0. But the voltmeter doesn’t lie. As for the time of pumping and landing on the hump, the results are modest. And the price is not good.

4. Airline X5 CA-050-16S

PRC, by order of the Russian Federation

The declared indicators are 50 l/min; 7 atm; 12.5 A

price, rub. 1910

Neat design, there are clamps for laying the hose. Built-in pressure gauge, “two-tariff”. The font size is quite readable, but preference is given to the PSI number system, which is unusual for us. The hose end is with a traditional threaded coupling. The two-piston design allows you to quickly inflate the tire - the second result! It's louder than the others. I confidently placed the tire on the hump. The case and the plug with the wire almost did not heat up. The long hose is convenient, but it would be nice to lengthen the wire. Overall a very decent option.

1–3. Dollex DL-4002

The declared indicators are 40 l/min; 10 kg/cm²; 14 A

Price, rub. 1484

Champion in pressure gauge accuracy: he was the only one that gave the correct value. And the scale is convenient and easy to read. He places the tire on the hump very confidently (second result!), but it takes too long to inflate the wheel. Among the advantages, we note a plastic housing cover (so as not to get burned), an LED flashlight, as well as a car fuse built into the wire. There are minor assembly flaws: the flashlight does not fit tightly to the body, which is distressed by sharp edges. Overall the impression was pleasant.

1–3. BERKUT R15

The declared indicators are 40 l/min; 10 atm; 14.5 A

Price, rub. 1694

It lands on the hump faster than anyone else, and makes noticeably less noise. It is also a leader in the quality of materials and assembly. The quality of the design is noticeable in the small details: we note the plug with finger pads, the pressure relief valve with a convenient brass tip, as well as the well-chosen length and cross-section of the wires. It hardly gets warm. And everything seems to be good, but the impression was spoiled by an inaccurate pressure gauge with an inconvenient double scale. Otherwise he would have been a champion.

1–3. SOROKIN® 13.65

Manufacturer not specified

The stated figures are 52 l/min; 6.9 bar; 14.5 A

price, rub. 3500

A neat compact product – a champion in inflation speed! He lands on the hump quickly, one of the first. Additional adapters are provided (attached to the body) for inflating balls and balls. But the numbers on the pressure gauge are small - this is a consequence of double digitization. The required scale, as luck would have it, is located closer to the center: here the distance between the divisions is even smaller. The thickness of the arrow corresponds to 0.2 kPa. It lowers the pressure by exactly this amount. Otherwise everything is very good, but expensive.

How to choose a tire compressor (2019)

The need to pump up a tire arises quite rarely these days - modern tubeless tires hold pressure well, and if you happen to “catch” a self-tapping screw in the wheel, the problem can be solved with the help of a jack and a spare wheel (by the way, how long ago did you check the pressure in it?). Many modern car enthusiasts drive quietly for years without feeling the slightest need to acquire a compressor or at least a pump. However, the fact that the compressor has never been useful to you in ten years of driving experience does not in any way guarantee that you will not need it literally tomorrow.

And it is absolutely reckless not to have a compressor in the trunk if you:

- going on a long journey;

— you are going to drive on country roads or even off-road;

— if your set of tires has been in use for more than the first season;

- if your tires have already been repaired.

A compressor is needed not only to inflate a “flat” tire, its presence makes it easier to maintain uniform and correct pressure in all wheels - after all, it also happens that the tire is not punctured or flat, but simply the pressure in it is less than normal. This may not be noticeable either externally or by feeling when driving, but it has its effect in the form of increased tire wear, increased consumption and an increased risk of an emergency. And having a good compressor with an accurate pressure gauge, you can improve the car's behavior and reduce fuel consumption by accurately setting the pressure in accordance with road conditions and load.

The compressor can be useful in extreme situations: when overcoming off-road conditions or when driving on icy conditions on unprepared tires. Of course, it would be much more correct not to stick your “highway” tires into either mud or ice, but if suddenly such a need arises, it is recommended to lower the tire pressure to half normal - the contact patch will increase and the grip will improve. Before leaving on a normal road, you will need a compressor to pump up the tires.

A tire compressor successfully makes life easier for tourists and fishermen by inflating rubber boats and air mattresses. A compressor with good performance can be used to ignite coals - this is both economical and environmentally friendly.

And some portable compressors can be connected to pneumatic tools.

So, a compressor is needed in a car. But which one depends on how and where you drive.

Compressor characteristics

The inflation rate determines the time it takes for the compressor to inflate the tire. The lower the value of this parameter, the longer you will have to wait.

It makes sense to use compressors with an inflation rate of 10 l/min or less only for motorcycle and bicycle wheels, since even small 13” car tires will require 20 minutes or more.

The device will pump up a 13-14 inch car wheel in 15-20 minutes at a speed of 10-15 l/min.

For 13-15 inch tires it is better to take a device with a capacity of 25-35 l/min, and for 16-18 inch tires on SUVs and crossovers - 40-55 l/min. Then it will take 2-5 minutes to inflate the wheel.

Starting from 50 l/min, the compressor can already be used to connect to some types of pneumatic tools - spray guns, nailers, etc.

Compressors with a capacity of 100 l/min or more will spend less than a minute on wheels for passenger cars and crossovers, but they are in the upper price segment and weigh a lot. These are more suitable for inflating large wheels for trucks. They can also be used to connect all types of pneumatic tools.

It is also worth noting the poor build quality of many models with low inflation speeds. Due to the loose fit of the parts, their performance drops significantly with increasing pressure, so the pumping time increases noticeably.

In addition, low-performance models from the lower price segment wear out quickly: sometimes they are enough for literally 5-10 uses. You should not take a compressor with low performance if it is intended to be used for inflating mattresses or boats. The volume of air in them is large, any compressor will have to work longer than usual, and an inexpensive “disposable” one, most likely, will have to work until the end of its life.

Another disadvantage of budget compressors is their short continuous operation time . Many of these models can work continuously for only 10-15 minutes, after which they need a “rest”. But few compressor owners pay attention to this parameter and turn off the device in time. Taking into account the fact that protection against overheating is rare on such models, and inflating a wheel at low performance can take all of 20 minutes, the first wheel for a compressor often turns out to be the last.

The maximum pressure determines which tires the compressor can be used with. In tires of cars, crossovers and SUVs, the pressure usually does not exceed 3 atmospheres, and in trucks it can reach up to 10. The compressor should be selected in accordance with these indicators.

Type of food . Most compressors are powered from the on-board 12 V network through the cigarette lighter connector or using “crocodiles” directly from the battery. Connecting to the cigarette lighter is more comfortable and safer, but with this method you should take into account the current consumed by the compressor and the fuse rating on the cigarette lighter. In some cars, the cigarette lighter is designed for a current of up to 8A (although more often the fuses are 15-20 A), and the compressor current can be much higher.

For a household compressor, there is no particular need for mains power; models with the ability to connect to 220 V are more likely to be in demand in car repair shops and garages that are not equipped with stationary pneumatics.

Regardless of the type of power supply, you should pay attention to the length of the power cable - it should be more than enough to reach each wheel. A cable 2-2.5 meters long is not that uncommon even among expensive powerful compressors. When connected to a battery of such length, not every car will be able to reach the rear wheel, not to mention larger cars.

Another dimension that “matters” is the length of the air hose . To comfortably inflate 13-15″ wheels, it should be at least 0.75 m. For 16-18″ wheels – 1 m.

This is the minimum that allows you to place the compressor next to the wheel with any nipple location. And if you don’t want to place a clean compressor on a dirty roadside, be prepared to hold it in your hands or add another meter or two to be able to place it on the floor of the cabin or trunk.

The type of fastener on the nipple should also be taken into account when choosing a compressor. The flag clamp is easy to install, but it often contains plastic parts (and sometimes is entirely made of plastic), wears out quickly and begins to “etch”, or even fly off the nipple when inflated. For compressors that are going to be used more than 5 times, you should choose an all-metal flag clamp or a brass fitting.

The need for a pressure gauge does not raise any questions, so all compressors without exception are equipped with it. But the location of the pressure gauge and its type may be different. The pressure gauge on the air gun is convenient for high-performance compressors (or for pumping small volumes), when the pressure changes quickly and the pumping process lasts no more than a minute.

In other cases, it is more convenient to use a pressure gauge located on the body (or on the hose).

An analog pressure gauge is cheaper, but the digital reading is easier to read. In addition, digital ones are usually more accurate - the readings of analog pressure gauges on cheap compressors often have nothing to do with reality. It should also be borne in mind that analog pressure gauges are usually calibrated to the maximum pressure - i.e., up to 7, 10, or even 16 AT. It is not easy to see one tenth of the atmosphere on such a scale.

And one more point related to pressure gauges - during operation, many of them “overestimate”, i.e., they show pressure greater than in the tire. Sometimes this is due to the poor quality of the pressure gauge itself, but more often due to the fact that the pressure at the installation site of the pressure gauge is actually higher than in the tire - and the more efficient the compressor, the greater the error. To see the exact pressure, the compressor must be turned off. This is a bit of an inconvenience if you need to set the pressure accurately - in which case a bleed valve . The pressure is created a little more than necessary, then the compressor is turned off, and the pressure is released to the required level by the release valve.

The built-in flashlight can come in handy if the tire goes flat at night somewhere outside the city.

Tire Compressor Options

If you are sure that you will never need a compressor, buy an inexpensive “emergency” model. It will not cost much, and if it does come in handy, it will fully pay for itself after the first use.