How to properly maintain a car battery

How to service a car battery yourself

A car battery is an expensive item and requires constant attention. This is an element that performs the main function - starting the engine. To ensure the longevity of your battery, it is necessary to perform periodic battery maintenance. How to do this, as well as a lot of other useful information, read further in the article.

What causes a battery to become unusable?

Before you find out what it is to do your own car battery maintenance, you need to minimize the threat to its durability and eliminate factors that affect its service life. These include:

• Low capacity. A low battery charge has a detrimental effect on its performance and service life. It is a fact.
• Low ambient temperature. When the temperature drops below 15 degrees, the battery capacity decreases accordingly.
• Faulty vehicle wiring. A very important component of high-quality battery operation, for example, an insufficient charge level of the generator will lead to rapid wear of the battery.
• Poor quality electrolyte or distilled water. Lead to rapid damage and corrosion of lead honeycombs. It is recommended to buy only from trusted automotive stores.

List of operations when diagnosing a car battery

Let’s define the main operations that are carried out before servicing the battery, and then we’ll look at them in more detail.

• Checking the voltage at the battery terminals without load. This means that when checking, the terminals of the vehicle’s on-board electrical network are removed from the battery. A multimeter or voltmeter is required.
• Checking the electrolyte level.
• Checking the battery level. A load fork is required.
• Visual inspection for damage to the housing and terminals: cracks, chips, severe abrasions, electrolyte leaks.

Advice! In order not to spend extra money, you can diagnose the car’s battery yourself. The main device is a multimeter, which will later come in handy even in household solutions around the house.

Periodic Battery Maintenance

A car battery requires periodic maintenance, which includes the following operations:

• Charge the battery using a regulated charger. Usually it takes 10-14 hours.
• Add electrolyte or distilled water (if the cells are open).
• Cleaning and lubricating battery terminals with solid oil or cyatim.
• Cleaning the battery case from dust, dirt, large and small debris with a rag.
• Carrying out charge/discharge cycles as desulfation for lead plates.

You can perform maintenance and diagnostics of your car battery yourself. A little knowledge, a couple of necessary tools, the result is cost savings and precise confidence in the serviceability of your car’s battery.

Checking battery voltage

Battery voltage check sequence:

• Turn on the multimeter, or simply switch its pointer to DC voltage measurement mode.
• Install the black probe on the negative terminal of the battery, the red one on the positive terminal.
• The voltage readings will be shown on the meter display.

Checking with a load fork

How to service a car battery yourself and not use a load fork, because buying one for rare use will not justify the money spent?

This is the honest truth - the load fork is a specialized measuring device created specifically for diagnosing the performance of the battery. To fully service the battery, you can rent a load plug or ask your friends.

The sequence of checking the battery with a load fork:

• Clean the battery terminals from plaque, dirt or debris.
• Attach the crocodiles of the load plug to the battery terminals. Red for “plus”, black for “minus”.
• Turn on the voltmeter. If the device shows 12.6-12.9 V, then the battery is charged. If less, then it needs to be charged.
• Apply the load briefly, no more than 5 seconds. For this purpose, a special button is provided on the body of the load fork.
• After the load, the voltmeter will show other data. A serviceable battery suitable for further use should not show a voltage of less than 10.2 V.

Leakage current test

The sequence for determining the leakage current on a car:

• Turn off all car devices that require power: headlights, interior heater fan, radio, interior lighting, air conditioning. The check is carried out with the engine turned off; the key must be removed from the lock.
• Remove the negative terminal from the battery.
• Set the multimeter to DC current measurement mode.
• The red probe of the multimeter will touch the ground wire of the car, and the black probe will touch the negative terminal of the battery.
• Record the readings, re-attach the ground wire to the negative terminal and securely fix it.

Checking the generator charge

As in the previous section, you will need a multimeter here. To check the quality of the generator charge, the battery should be installed on the car.

Advice! To properly check this parameter, it is necessary to turn on the maximum number of electrical appliances on the on-board network. For example: interior heater fan, headlights, wipers and heated rear window.

Sequence of checking the generator charge quality:

• Start the car engine.
• Turn on the multimeter and touch the negative and positive terminals of the on-board power supply with the probes.
• The display of the measuring device will show the voltage that the generator produces to charge the battery.

The generator charge interval is quite wide: from 13 V to 14.4 V, depending on the serviceability of the on-board electrical network and the make of the car. But, if the device recorded a reading below 13 V, then you should look for the reason for such a low voltage. Usually the fault lies in the generator or voltage relay.

Electrolyte density measurement

A battery hydrometer is required, without which battery maintenance is impossible. The device costs little and is suitable for checking the density of electrolyte and coolant (antifreeze or antifreeze). This parameter can be measured not only during a full battery service, but also just once every 2-3 weeks. To measure, you do not need to remove the battery from the car.

Sequence for measuring electrolyte density:

• Unscrew the plastic lids covering each jar.
• Lower the nozzle of the intake tube into the electrolyte until it comes into contact with the plate.
• Pump some electrolyte into the tube with a blower.
• Place the measuring hydrometer into the tube. The electrolyte level will be opposite the corresponding reading on the hydrometer.

Selection must be made from each jar.

Visual inspection and cleaning

External cleaning of the battery is necessary to maintain proper performance. Maintenance and cleaning of the battery should be carried out at the same time, except for those moments when the battery is too dirty. But 10 minutes is enough to wipe the battery with a damp cloth without removing it from the car.

Advice! Before you start inspecting and cleaning, prepare an effective and inexpensive solution: 1 teaspoon of baking soda to 1 cup of water, and mix thoroughly. Soda is an electrolyte catalyst and effectively removes it from any surface.

During inspection, you must ensure that the battery case is intact, that there are no leaks of electrolyte, as well as traces of oil, antifreeze or antifreeze. After inspection, you can begin cleaning: thoroughly wipe the battery case with a damp cloth. It is better to use dry rags to wipe the terminals.

After wiping, the battery terminals should be lubricated with a special gel that prevents the appearance of an oxidative film and conductive deposits. If there is no gel, then simple grease or cyatim is quite suitable, which is used to lubricate the bearings of electric motors operating at high speeds.

Charging the battery

Even with a normal battery capacity, it should be recharged at least once every 3 months.

How to properly charge/recharge the battery:

• Unscrew the plastic caps covering the battery jars.
• Correctly connect the “crocodiles” of the charger to the battery: “plus” to “plus”, “minus” to “minus”. Reversing the polarity may damage the battery.
• Plug in your home battery charging device and set its current to 5 A.
• After the electrolyte boils, the current will drop to 2-3 A. There is no need to raise it higher.
• Leave the battery to charge for 10-12 hours.

The last step is desulfation

Desulfation of a car battery is carried out in order to extend its service life. During prolonged use of the battery, excess lead accumulates on its plates, which does not disappear even after a charging cycle. Desulfation helps, if not get rid of it, then at least slightly reduce its amount.

The simplest desulfation method is to pour a special solution into battery jars. This solution is quite rare and expensive, so it may not be sold in any car store. Directions for use: drain the electrolyte, fill in the solution, leave for the time specified in the instructions for use, drain the solution and fill in a new electrolyte.

A more complex method is to charge the battery using special devices, such as chargers operating on the pulse current principle. Such devices are very expensive, but many car enthusiasts assemble them themselves.

Conclusion

The article addresses the question: how to service a car battery with your own hands at minimal cost. Every car owner should remember that a missed battery maintenance cycle can lead to more serious costs in the future than an extra hour of your time.

Battery maintenance and diagnostics

The battery is practically the only component of the equipment of any car that requires periodic maintenance and diagnostics.

A considerable number of car owners often neglect the fact that the battery needs to be looked after. But in vain.

In general, work carried out on a battery cannot be called maintenance (in the literal sense of the word). More correctly, this process should be called prevention.

Do I need to do battery maintenance and diagnostics?

Naturally, it is necessary. You can do a simple calculation. The average battery life is 3-4 years, and the cost (again, let's take the average price - about 5,000 rubles). In practice, timely maintenance and diagnostics of the battery condition makes it possible to increase its service life to 5-6 years.

But it's not even about cost and savings. The condition of the battery largely determines the uninterrupted operation of many vehicle systems and devices, incl. and your safety.

The topic of maintenance becomes relevant before the onset of the first cold weather.

It is customary to divide batteries into maintenance-free, low-maintenance and maintenance-free. The statement is quite controversial - any device requires maintenance - it’s just that each type of battery requires a different amount of work.

Battery maintenance and diagnostic process

So, what does the process of maintenance (prevention) and diagnostics of batteries include?

1. Any device must be serviced in comfortable conditions. For maintenance, the battery must be removed from the vehicle and taken to a suitable room. If this happens in winter, you need to give the battery time to warm up to room temperature.
2. Cleaning from dirt, oil drips, and any foreign contaminants.
3. Checking the level and density of the electrolyte using a hydrometer (if there are plugs for filling the electrolyte).
4. Checking the battery charge level using a load plug.
5. Charging the battery.
6. Checking the condition of current terminals.

So you've removed the battery from your car and are trying to bring it home. Batteries come with or without handles. In the first case, carrying does not cause any problems. In the second case, you need to carry it carefully, without leaning it against your clothes; it is advisable to use some kind of carrying device.

Even on a seemingly dry body, traces of electrolyte always remain, and after a few days, burnt spots may appear on clothing.

The battery must be allowed to settle until it reaches room temperature, after which it must be thoroughly cleaned of all contaminants.

If your battery is maintenance-free, i.e. does not have filler plugs - the battery can be washed under a gentle stream of water using a brush. Before washing, you can treat the battery case with some concentrated detergent to dissolve old and oily contaminants.

Serviced batteries are cleaned with a dampened rag or sponge, avoiding any liquid getting into the filler plugs.

In both cases, the battery case is wiped dry.

How to wash the battery is described in detail in the video:

IMPORTANT. The batteries being serviced must not be tilted at an angle of more than 30° to avoid electrolyte leakage through the filler plugs.

The battery has settled and now you need to measure the voltage at the terminals using a multimeter.

You can estimate the degree of battery discharge using a special table

The next step is to check the level and density of the electrolyte.

Using a screwdriver with a wide blade or a two-ruble coin, you need to unscrew and remove the plugs from the filler holes.

Now you need to check the level and density of the electrolyte in each battery bank.

In order not to repeat ourselves, this stage is described in great detail in the article on hydrometers.

If the level and density are normal, this is good. If the parameters deviate from generally accepted standards - the electrolyte level should be within 10-15 mm above the upper cut of the plates, and the density should be in the range of 1.27-1.29 g/cm3, then they must be brought to normal.

In warm regions, the normal density value is considered to be 1.26 g/cm3, and in regions of the Far North at very low temperatures the density is increased to 1.30 g/cm3.

To increase the level, you need to add only distilled water, and to increase the density, charge the battery.

Measuring battery voltage with a load plug.

After charging the battery, you need to check it using a load plug.

For an ordinary user, it is enough to have the simplest and most inexpensive option - Orion NV-01 at a price of 600 rubles. You will use it at most five times during the year, and there is no point in buying expensive and sophisticated ones.

Using a load fork, two measurements are made - open circuit voltage and voltage under load.

It is not recommended to take measurements on a cold battery when it has just been removed from the car or from charging. The battery must stand for 10-12 hours to come to a state of rest.

How to take measurements is described in detail in the article “Load forks for battery testing.”

The open circuit voltage of a fully charged battery should be within 12.6÷12.7 V. If the open circuit voltage is below these values, this indicates that the battery is discharged or undercharged.

Then we check the voltage value under load for 5 seconds. The load fork simulates a load that is 2 times the nominal capacity of the battery. Those. if the battery has a capacity of 50 A/h, use a 100 A load plug.

If, when measured under load, the voltage is below 10 V, then this means your battery has serious problems.

After all the operations performed, the battery must be charged, regardless of what voltage readings were obtained during the measurements.

After the charging process is completed, after 10-12 hours it is necessary to re-measure the voltage.

At the final stage of maintenance, it is necessary to check the condition of the current leads and terminals on the live wires.

The process of servicing battery current leads and terminals is described in detail in the article “Car battery terminals”.

This is not directly related to the battery maintenance process, but I would like to say a few words on the topic of using terminal lubrication.

There is a misconception that you first need to lubricate down conductors and terminals, and then install them.

IMPORTANT. First, the down conductors and terminals are cleaned using a scraper, quickly connected to each other, tightened with bolts, and only then a thin layer of lubricant can be applied.

Instruments and accessories used in battery maintenance

Almost any car owner must have a minimum set of instruments and devices for servicing the battery.

Here is a minimal list.

Wide blade screwdriver.

Some car enthusiasts specially sharpen the blade to the shape of a cross-shaped recess in traffic jams.

This sharpening allows you to immerse the screwdriver blade deeper into the cross-shaped cutout of the plug and not tear off the slots.

If you don’t have a suitable screwdriver at hand, you can use a two-ruble coin.

You also need a regular screwdriver to remove the protective strip above the filler plugs.

A hydrometer (acid meter) is a device used to measure the density of the electrolyte in a lead-acid battery. Most car enthusiasts try with all their might and means to purchase a Soviet-made hydrometer.

They are considered to be of the highest quality both in terms of the quality of the materials from which the components are made and in terms of measurement accuracy. Usually they can be purchased (with difficulty) at flea markets, metal markets, and flea markets, where they sell all sorts of unnecessary junk.

Even if you purchase a modern hydrometer, it is advisable that it has a glass bulb and not a plastic one. The plastic bulb is susceptible to cracking and small scratches appear on it, which significantly reduces its transparency.

There are more than a dozen options for hydrometers, it’s impossible to list them all, but I personally use a hydrometer that I inherited from my father. The hydrometer is about 50 years old and is still in fairly good condition.

To check the electrolyte level, you also need to have a measuring glass tube or a wooden stick with marked divisions.

Load fork.

Using a load fork, they check the battery’s ability to produce the required voltage under load https://akkumir.ru/zaryadka/nagruzochnayvilka

Charger.

There is no point in going into detail about chargers in this article; you can read it all in expanded form here: “Choosing a charger for a car battery.”

Tool for stripping current leads and terminals.

The most versatile is the scraper, which can be used both for stripping current leads and stripping terminals.

You, of course, can use available materials in the form of sandpaper, a wooden block, etc. to clean current leads and terminals.

But, as you know, the miser pays twice. Buy a cleaner once and you will use it for the rest of your life; there will be enough for your children and grandchildren.

10x10 wrench for removing terminals.

Not on all battery terminals the bolt head rests against a special protrusion and does not allow the bolt to rotate around its axis. Therefore, ideally, you need to have two of them - to hold the bolt and unscrew (tighten) the nut.

The key is universal and, as a rule, it is responsible for all the bolts that secure the battery in the engine compartment.

Multimeter.

A desirable, but not necessary device. This is a multifunctional measuring instrument that combines the functions of a voltmeter, ammeter and ohmmeter, and is also used as an ordinary “diameter”.

There are multimeters without audible “continuity”, with audible “continuity”, with audible “continuity” and temperature measurement. Multimeters are also produced in very small sizes.

Since the site does not yet have an article about multimeters, we will tell you at least briefly about the procedure for working with them.

Probes are inserted into the multimeter as follows: the black probe is inserted into the lower socket, marked COM. The red cord is inserted into the middle socket. Measurement of direct and alternating voltage, “continuity” is carried out precisely in this version of connecting the cords. The red probe is moved to the upper socket when measuring current.

Experienced service specialists recommend purchasing a device with audio dialing.

In relation to the topic of this article, a multimeter can be used to measure the voltage at the battery terminals before and after charging.

What is the lifespan of a car battery?

Very often, when purchasing a new battery, customers ask how long a particular battery will last. No one will give an exact answer to such a question - neither the manufacturer, nor the seller, nor even the person who operates it.

The thing is that the performance of the battery directly depends on compliance with the rules of its operation. But if you follow all the rules, the battery will last a long time. On average, the service life of lead-acid batteries in a polyethylene case is 3-4 years. For example, Varta lasts a little longer - about 5-6 years. Again, the readings are average.

There are car enthusiasts who kill their battery in a year or two, and there are those who drive it for more than six years.

How to increase battery life?

1. The battery must be kept clean to prevent the formation of parasitic dirt that causes leakage current. It is recommended to wash it periodically with a soda solution.
2. Avoid deep discharges, which any lead-acid battery is afraid of - be it antimony or calcium - this is stress for it. One deep discharge can be approximately equal to two to three months of operation.
3. It is necessary to ensure that efficient electrical equipment is used - a generator, a starter, which consumes as much current as it needs.
4. The moment of correct selection of the battery is important. It is not recommended to take less than the recommended capacity, but 30-40% more will be a plus.
5. Do not use electrical appliances when the engine is not running - it is not advisable to listen to the radio, do not watch TV, etc. The battery is only needed to start the engine.
6. Monitor the level and density of the electrolyte. If this is not necessary, do not change the electrolyte, do not rinse the jars - all this has a very detrimental effect on the battery. Charge before winter, after winter ends.
7. Do not overcharge when the voltage is greater than 14.5 V.

The author tried to describe the process of servicing and diagnosing batteries as simply and clearly as possible. If you have comments, additions, or fundamentally agree on something, express your opinion in the comments.

How to service a car battery with your own hands?

Do-it-yourself car battery maintenance, done with high quality, makes it possible to increase its service life by 2–2.5 times, saving money and time.

The need for maintenance is determined by the following factors:

• Over time, charge parameters deteriorate.
• Idle transport with the engine running contributes to the discharge of the car battery.
• Poor quality, untimely care leads to irreversible processes. A failed battery cannot be serviced.

What determines the service life of a battery?

Studying the factors affecting the period of use of batteries allows you to maintain the device in working condition.

Charge level

Frequently discharging the car battery helps reduce the time of use. Experts recommend constantly charging serviced car batteries and replenishing lost charge. But when moving around the city, it is difficult to achieve such a result. After all, the engine periodically starts and turns off. In this case, you can use a mains charger. It is easy to charge the power supply using it.

Temperature

The main influence of temperature is on starting power. To obtain maximum capacity, a temperature of 15 degrees is required. Capacity is lost when the set temperature decreases.

During winter, battery maintenance is performed more frequently. Indeed, when the battery freezes completely or partially, the quality of the electrolyte deteriorates.

Watch a video about battery maintenance in cold weather.

On-board system performance

The condition of car batteries depends on the condition of the electrical network. Therefore, the generator and regulator must be maintained in working order. Otherwise, it will be difficult to operate the battery.

Applying excessively high voltage leads to boiling and overcharging. The electrolyte level gradually decreases. And to increase it you need to add distilled water.

Corrosion processes

It is not difficult to stop corrosion processes. For this purpose, additives and alloying impurities are used. To minimize the likelihood of corrosion, a higher quality electrolyte is required. Refill it if necessary.

Sulfation

Its intensity is reduced if the car battery is charged and serviced in a timely manner.

Sulfation is established using equipment and research.

Battery maintenance frequency

Maintenance is divided into periodic and diagnostic. Most processes are carried out at home.

In order to understand how to properly service the battery, you need to study all the intricacies.

Periodic maintenance

• Operation of network charging. Before winter, charging is carried out quarterly, at negative temperatures - monthly. Mains charging is used when the power source is completely discharged.
• Use of a load fork to assess general condition.
• Establishing the density of the electrolytic composition. The operation of the battery depends on this.
• Calculation of leakage current. The performance of the power source and the condition of the electrical components depend on this characteristic.
• Desulfation process.

Charging a maintenance-free car battery is carried out according to a special scheme.

Diagnostics

• Measuring the voltage level after disconnecting the source from the power supply.
• Measuring voltage while the engine is running.
• Assessing the condition of the battery at home.

Diagnostics related to checking characteristics, electrolytic fluid and oil levels are performed regularly. Such processes help maintain batteries in working condition.

Car battery maintenance rules

The performance of vehicles depends on the state of the power source. Therefore, battery maintenance must be carried out in stages.

Visual assessment

The battery is inspected 2-3 times a month if the vehicle is actively used. Salt, oil stains and electrolyte leaks are removed from the body. For cleaning, you can use a solution that includes baking soda.

Electrolytic composition leaks contribute to the formation of a film that facilitates current conduction and rapid self-discharge. Terminals and terminals are treated with anti-corrosion mixtures. Before processing, any remaining rust, dust and contaminants are removed from these elements.

Voltage level measurements

The degree of charge is established using a multimeter with a closed and open circuit. Polarity must be observed when placing terminals. European and domestic devices differ in the placement of negative and positive terminals.

The voltage of a fully charged battery is 12.6 V. You cannot operate or maintain a battery that is not fully charged. After all, the sulfation process will proceed faster.

The voltage is also measured with the engine on, the stove connected and the on-board network connected. This mode implies a voltage of 13–14 V.

Such measurements are necessary to establish the condition of the generator. Charging the battery depends on its performance. If the voltage is too low, the charge will not be fully replenished.

Lack of voltage contributes to the rapid consumption of distilled water. In order to correct the situation, you need to test and repair the car's electrical system.

Electrolyte

You can evaluate the level of electrolytic composition without dismantling the battery. The procedure is carried out after the device is fully charged.

• Serviced battery. To determine the electrolyte level, holes located on the cans are first opened. A plastic tube is lowered into the hole until its edge touches the plates. The resulting parameter must be at least 10 mm. In this case, it is very important to know how to top up the electrolytic composition.
• Maintenance free battery. To check the electrolyte in the battery, appropriate marks are used. For more information on how to maintain a maintenance-free battery, contact a professional.

Additionally, the degree of density of the electrolyte is assessed. A hydrometer is used for measurements. To adjust the density level, distilled water and a new electrolyte are used. Before pouring the composition, the degree of density is measured.

Leakage current

Excessively high leakage current prevents constant charge restoration and contributes to rapid discharge of the battery. This parameter can be measured using a multimeter. After such a check, battery maintenance will be simplified.

Charging the battery

Constant voltage charging is performed quarterly. In winter, care and maintenance are performed more often. After all, the battery is exposed to negative temperatures.

When the power supply is completely discharged, an emergency charge is required. Such situations arise due to:

• Headlights on.
• Listening to music for a long time.
• Long downtime.

The battery should only be charged at constant current.

Assessing the condition of the battery

For these purposes, a load fork is used, with the help of which the maximum load is simulated when the engine is running. Activities like this are easy to do on your own.

Periodic battery training

Twice a year there is a need to train the battery. Timely training cycles reduce the speed of the sulfation process. But the maximum effect is achieved with minimal sulfation rates. In more advanced cases, other measures are taken.

Proper training of the power supply allows you to establish the actual capacity.

How to maintain maintenance-free batteries?

A maintenance-free battery requires care. Maintenance of such a battery is simple.

1. Inspection of the hull. During the process, the general condition is monitored, defects, damage, and leaks of the electrolytic mixture are identified.
2. Inspection and repair of drainage channels. They are cleaned of dirt and dust.
3. Visual inspection.
4. Detection of leakage of electrolytic composition.
5. Neutralization of acidic and alkaline environments.
6. Treatment of inputs and contacts with lubricant. Such actions help extend the service life and prevent destruction.
7. Testing the functionality of the terminals. The level of charge received from the generator depends on the results.

It is not necessary to add electrolyte to a maintenance-free battery.

Features of caring for serviced batteries

Maintenance includes the following procedures:

• Assessment of the degree of fastening reliability. If necessary, bolts and nuts are fixed.
• Terminals and clamps are cleaned of oxides and rust. To prevent the formation of corrosion, parts are treated with lubricants.
• Visual and instrumental check of the level of electrolytic composition. For testing, improvised means and special tubes are used. When the electrolyte level decreases, the jars are filled with distilled water and the prepared electrolyte. You can buy them in stores.
• Determination of electrolyte density. The charge level also depends on this indicator. Excessively low readings indicate a poor charge.
• Checking battery performance using a load fork.

Filling with electrolyte is carried out only if there are smudges. This procedure includes a number of processes. The performance of the on-board system, main components and the car depends on the correctness of their implementation.

Security measures

Maintenance of car batteries is carried out in accordance with some recommendations and safety measures:

• Before carrying out work, prepare glasses and gloves made of durable material.
• All events are held in premises equipped with ventilation systems and communications.
• When working with acids and alkalis, precautions must be taken.
• Batteries should be placed on a clean and dry surface.
• Contact between the skin and the electrolytic composition should be avoided.

The functioning of all mechanisms and systems of the vehicle depends on the performance of the battery. The energy generated by the power source is used to start the engine, recharge electronic components and the on-board network.

It is not difficult to prevent rapid battery failure. This requires maintenance of the power supply.

Video on battery maintenance

How to do car battery maintenance yourself

A car battery, like any other technical device, needs periodic maintenance. Many people today treat a car battery as a consumable item. They don’t maintain it, they use it for 2-3 years and buy a new one. But a car battery can last much longer. With periodic maintenance, the service life is 5-6 years, and in some cases longer. Therefore, if you don’t have extra money, let’s figure out how to service your car battery and how often.

What affects the life of a car battery?

To properly maintain a car battery, you need to understand what factors affect its service life. Then it will be clear what you need to pay attention to first. Listed below are the main factors affecting battery life.

Charge level

If a car battery is often in a discharged state, this greatly reduces its service life.
Ideally, the battery should be constantly charged. That is, when the engine starts, it gives up part of the charge, and with further charging from the generator during the trip, it makes up for these losses. But a modern car with a large number of current consumers simply does not have time to replenish the lost charge. This is not helped at all by the city driving mode with frequent engine starts and many hours of idling in traffic jams. Therefore, there is a need for periodic charging from a mains charger. If the battery is constantly in a discharged state, the service life of the car battery will be significantly reduced. Return to content

Operating temperature

The temperature at which the battery is operated is also a factor that affects its service life. The starting power of a car battery largely depends on temperature.

As you know, a fully charged battery produces its declared capacity at 15-20 degrees Celsius. When the temperature decreases by one degree, the battery capacity decreases by 1 Ah.

Frozen electrolyte in the battery

Vehicle on-board network condition

This is an important point, since the condition of the battery greatly depends on the health of the car's electrical network. It is especially important to have a working generator and voltage regulator. If these components do not work properly, then even with regular maintenance of the car battery, it will wear out ahead of time.

Keep your car's electrical system in order

If the voltage in the network is less than normal, the battery will be constantly in a discharged state.
The negative consequences of this were discussed above. So, a faulty car electrical system significantly reduces the service life of the battery. Return to content

Corrosion processes

Corrosive processes also reduce the service life of a car battery. Manufacturers combat this phenomenon with the help of various alloying additives. Corrosion is a natural process in all batteries. Motorists here can be advised to use high-quality electrolyte and distilled water when servicing the battery.

If these consumables are of poor quality, then you risk only aggravating the corrosion phenomena.
Here we can recommend buying distilled water at a pharmacy, and not at auto stores. There you risk running into plain tap water. Return to content

Sulfation

Sulfation is the deposition of lead sulfate on the battery plates, which leads to a decrease in battery capacity. The process of sulfation, like corrosion, is natural when using and storing batteries. But with proper and regular maintenance of a car battery, the intensity of sulfation can be significantly reduced.

Example of plate sulfation

Types and frequency of car battery maintenance

Servicing a car battery can be divided into diagnostics and, in fact, service operations with the battery themselves. You can carry out maintenance of the car battery yourself or entrust it to service station workers, but you need to carry out diagnostics of the car battery yourself. In this case, you will be aware of the current state of the battery.

Car battery diagnostics

Diagnosis of a car battery includes the following operations:

• Checking the voltage at the battery terminals with an open circuit (that is, the battery is not connected to the vehicle network);
• Checking the voltage in the vehicle's on-board network when the engine is running;
• Checking the electrolyte level (on the car or on a removed battery);
• Visual inspection (damage, contamination).

These operations must be performed without waiting until problems arise with the car battery.
They can be carried out with such car maintenance activities as checking the oil level, adding fluid to the washer reservoir, checking tire pressure, and the like. Return to content

Car battery maintenance operations

• Periodic and unscheduled (if necessary) charging of the battery with a network charger;
• Checking and adjusting electrolyte density;
• Battery test with load fork;
• Checking leakage current;
• Preventive desulfation work.

To carry out the work you will need the following devices, tools, materials:

• multimeter (or voltmeter);
• load fork;
• hydrometer;
• Charger;
• glass or plastic tube;
• pear;
• electrolyte;
• distilled water.

Attention! When working with electrolyte, be sure to wear gloves and safety glasses. An electrolyte is an aqueous solution of sulfuric acid. The substance is caustic and affects the skin and mucous membranes. Use personal protective equipment.

Now let's take a closer look at how all this is done in practice.
Return to content

How to service a car battery yourself?

Checking battery voltage

Everything is simple here and to measure the voltage you only need a multimeter or voltmeter. The battery can be removed from the vehicle or simply disconnected the terminals. The multimeter is switched to voltage measurement mode, the probes are thrown onto the battery terminals (red for plus, black for minus). Nothing bad will happen if the probes are connected in reverse. The voltage will just be negative.

Measuring battery voltage with a multimeter

Checking the voltage in the on-board network

Here, measurements are also carried out with a multimeter on the battery terminals, but the battery is installed on the car and the engine is running. At the same time, turn on the heated rear window, heater and radio to simulate real operating conditions. The voltage value should be in the range of 13-14.4 volts.

If the voltage is less, the battery simply will not charge, and if it is more, there will be a high water consumption. If the voltage does not comply with the specified limits, you should contact an auto electrician to check the operation of the generator, voltage regulator and other components of the vehicle's electrical network. Read more about this in the article “The car battery does not charge from the generator.”

Checking the electrolyte level

Diagnostics of a car battery includes checking the electrolyte level, which you can do without removing the battery from the car. To do this, you need to unscrew the plugs in the battery jars or remove the entire lid if it is solid. Use a glass tube to measure. If you don’t have one, you can use the body of a simple ballpoint pen.

Handle body

Electrolyte collection in jars

The height of the electrolyte remaining in the tube should be 10-15 millimeters. And carry out such a check in every bank. If you don’t have a tube at hand, you can simply visually check the electrolyte level so that it covers the plates with a reserve.

When inspecting, use a flashlight to illuminate yourself.

Attention! Never use a lighter for illumination. When charging, hydrogen accumulates in the battery. If a spark gets into its mixture with oxygen, the car battery will explode. Remember this and follow safety precautions.

In maintenance-free car batteries, the electrolyte level can be checked by the marks on the case: min and max. He must be between them. Although in most cases such testing is not required for this type of battery.

Visual control

Visually inspect the battery for damage. In addition, the battery must be kept clean. Wipe off traces of oil, electrolyte, and dirt from the body. It is recommended to wipe the battery with a baking soda solution (1 teaspoon per glass of water). Soda neutralizes the electrolyte.

Battery condition is poor

If the battery is dirty and has electrolyte leaks, then a conductive film will always be present on the surface.
Because of this, the self-discharge of the battery will increase. We recommend covering the terminals with anti-corrosion gels or sprays. They are available at any auto store and are inexpensive. It is easier to keep the battery clean and in working condition than to repair the car battery later. Return to content

Charging the battery with a network charger

Under normal operating conditions and regular car trips, charging is recommended once every three months. It would be more correct to call it recharging. That is, the battery charge is simply brought to the maximum, and periodic recharging is done on the go from the generator. This type of charging can be carried out at constant voltage in automatic mode. You can read more about different charging modes in the article “How to properly charge a car battery with a charger.”

Battery charging can be regular or unscheduled

There is also a need for unscheduled charging. For example, you forgot to turn off the headlights and the battery died. It may happen that the car has been parked for a long time and the battery has not been used. Then it is better to charge under control in constant current mode. This will allow it to return capacity after a deep discharge.

We also recommend reading about how to charge a calcium car battery.

Checking and adjusting the electrolyte density in the battery

The electrolyte density should be checked after the battery is fully charged. For batteries operated in the middle zone, the electrolyte density of a charged battery should be 1.27─1.29 g/cm 3 . In northern latitudes, the density can be increased to 1.3 g/cm 3 . To control the density, you will need a hydrometer, and to adjust it, distilled water or an electrolyte.

How to properly maintain a car battery

The battery is the most discussed car part in winter, and the most common reason for morning delays. Some people blame the weak battery and buy a new one, while others, on the contrary, boast about its reliability. Besides replacing the battery with a fresh one, what else can be done with this sensitive part of the car? Here are a few additional accessories, tips and driving tricks that will extend the life of your battery.

Cleanliness is the key to health

Many car owners do not attach importance to the cleanliness of the engine compartment, and they rarely look under the hood. But if for some components of the machine the “historical” layer of dust is not critical, then for the battery it is very harmful. During operation, the battery emits electrolyte vapors, which mix with road dust and form a thin layer around its body. The result is not ordinary dirt, but conductive dirt - because of it, a so-called leakage through the case occurs and self-discharge of the battery. So the cleanliness of the battery directly affects its proper operation.

Periodic wiping of the battery is also possible under the hood, but to fully clean the battery it is better to disconnect it and take it out. All-purpose cleaners or a water solution of baking soda are suitable for removing stains. You need to wipe the battery with a damp but well-wrung cloth so that liquid does not get inside the case through the gas outlet holes. In a maintenance-free battery they are located at the side ends of the top cover, and in a serviceable battery they may be in the plugs themselves.

Prevention of oxidation

Many people experience oxidation of battery terminals. It often occurs due to a leak in the battery case near the current terminals, but there may be other reasons: for example, intense bubbling of the electrolyte and abundant gas outlet. When deposited on lead terminals, electrolyte vapors form mold-like oxides, which impair electrical contact and lead to heating. Oxidation must be fought.

First of all, you need to disconnect the battery and thoroughly clean the terminals and current leads. You can use a metal brush and sandpaper, but it is more convenient and effective to use a special “cleaner” for batteries. The cleaning brush allows you to perfectly clean both the inner surface of the terminals and the outer cones of the current terminals on the battery. There are also special auto chemicals available for effective cleaning of terminals.

To prevent corrosion of the terminals, felt anti-oxidation gaskets are used, which are placed on the current terminals and serve as a buffer between the battery case and the terminals, preventing electrolyte vapor from passing to them. Another popular method is to lubricate the outside of the terminals with lithol or special products for battery terminals. The lubricant creates surface protection against electrolyte vapors and oxidation, but it should be applied only after connecting and tightening the terminals - it conducts current poorly and should not come into contact with the contact surfaces.

Reliable contact

A lot depends on the quality and reliability of the terminals. Bad terminals can not only lose contact, but also overheat, damaging the wiring, current leads, and even the battery case. Inspect the terminals carefully: if they have cracks, corrosion, or are constantly oxidizing, it is better to replace the terminals with new ones. Also pay attention to the “negative” wire going to the car body - it often breaks due to constant vibrations.

The terminals must be correctly selected to match the size of the battery terminals. Most motorists divide the terminals exclusively into “large” and “small” (and adapters between them), but there are differences among them. Even in a loose state, the terminal should not dangle or play, so that it does not have to be tightened “to the limit”: this can break both the terminal itself and the battery current lead. The other extreme is driving a terminal that is too narrow with a hammer - the battery will definitely not say “thank you” to you for such treatment.

Temperature conditions. Thermoboxes (thermal cases)

The speed of chemical processes in a battery directly depends on its temperature - a cold battery is extremely reluctant to accept a charge. This becomes a problem during short city trips in winter: the battery does not have time to replenish its charge and remains half-discharged in the cold, which significantly reduces its service life. In summer, the situation is the opposite: in the heat of the engine compartment, the battery overheats and begins to boil away. The solution is to keep the battery temperature stable using a thermal box.

The thermobox (thermal case) for the battery is very similar to the familiar cooler bag. The heat-insulating material of the case stabilizes the temperature inside, preventing the battery from freezing in winter and heating up in summer. For very severe frosts, flat heating elements are additionally inserted into the thermobox - “warmers” for the battery, connected to it via a relay. The heating is activated when the engine starts, when charge begins to flow from the generator. With such a system, the battery will work normally in any cold weather.

In addition to the “thermos” function, the thermal case is also a dirt-proof cover, keeping the battery clean.

Periodic inspection and maintenance

Like any component of a car, the battery needs periodic checking and diagnostics. If you have a new battery, then this procedure at an authorized service center is required to maintain the warranty.

How is the battery checked? First of all, a load fork - it simulates the load from the car starter, recording the drop in battery voltage. If the battery is serviceable, then you need to check the electrolyte level, simultaneously measuring its density with a hydrometer.

In addition to the battery, the car itself is checked with a multimeter (tester): the level of charge from the generator and the leakage current. Malfunctions in the car’s electrical system primarily affect the “health” of the battery. For independent monitoring of the battery condition and charge level, there are convenient digital testers that operate from the cigarette lighter.

Maintenance of a modern battery usually comes down to cleaning it from dirt and charging it with a stationary charger.

Traditional methods

There are many myths and dubious folk ways to “cheer up” the battery. For example, “warming up” the battery with high beams before the morning start in winter. Many car owners burn headlights for a long time, believing that this method will activate chemical processes in the battery and warm it up, increasing the chances of a successful start. In fact, you can only heat the lamps themselves using this method. The battery, other than losing part of its precious charge, will not feel any changes.

But by reducing the load on the on-board network, the car owner will really make life easier for the battery. Judge for yourself: when you turn on the ignition, many people immediately, even before starting the engine, turn on the heated steering wheel, seats, windows and mirrors, the music system (often with a bright screen), low beam headlights, a heater, various electric drives... As in the famous joke: “And now with all this stuff we’ll try to take off.” With so many consumers, there may not be enough charge for the starter. And even if there is enough, the battery will hardly be able to fully charge during a short trip. Therefore, it is better to enable all the pleasant options gradually, and only after the engine has been successfully started.

Correct resuscitation

If trouble does happen and the battery is dead, it is important to properly and safely return it to “life.” It is best to remove the battery and charge it in a warm place with a stationary charger. If this is not possible (for example, you need to go urgently), and you decide to use the good old “lighting a cigarette” method, follow the basic rules:

1. The cross-section of the cigarette lighter wires must be designed for the starting current of the most powerful of the pair of batteries being connected. In addition, the larger the cross-section (the thicker the wires), the lower their resistance, the more successful the “lighting”. Don't skimp on wires.
2. Watch the polarity! Different colors of wires (red and black) help not to confuse “plus” with “minus”, but car owners still make this mistake regularly. Repairing a car's electrical system after such a short circuit can be expensive.
3. On the car being restored, the negative wire is connected not to the battery terminal, but to “ground” - an unpainted metal part of the engine. Connecting a completely discharged battery to the negative terminal can damage it.
4. Don't start two cars at once! The engine of the donor car can be turned on to recharge the dead battery, but before starting the rescued car, the “donor” must be turned off.
5. After successfully “lighting up,” you need to keep the engine running for as long as possible (at least a couple of hours) to fully charge the battery.