How many cans of paint are needed to paint wheels?

How to paint your own wheels using a spray can

Although the rims are usually coated with a fairly durable layer of paint, it may happen that they need to be painted. Stamped wheel parts often receive dents as a result of hitting an obstacle or are scratched on curbs. There may be other reasons, including the owner’s desire to simply change the color.

Wheel rims are small in size and, with sufficient care, their painting can be done by any car enthusiast, even in the absence of the necessary premises or special equipment. The most important thing is that the cost of the work will only include the price of materials and, of course, the time spent.

Due to the fact that most car enthusiasts do not have special painting equipment, the option of painting wheels from a spray can with their own hands will be considered.

Materials and tools needed for work

Before you start painting wheels, you should ensure that you have all the necessary materials and tools.

What you need to prepare:

• car shampoo;
• drill or grinder with a brush attachment. Necessary for rough cleaning of old paint and rust;
• eye protection glasses;
• a toothbrush (no need to laugh - it is indispensable for cleaning dirt from hard-to-reach places);
• sandpaper with grit 120 and 800. For fine finishing work, a finer one may be useful;
• degreaser - acetone, white spirit or other nitro solvent;
• auto putty. Needed to level the surface in areas of gross defects;
• rust converter;
• primer in an aerosol can;
• paint for painting wheels in a can.

Preparatory work

1. First of all, before you start cleaning the surface, the wheel circle needs to be thoroughly washed from dirt. To do this you need to use car shampoo. Particular attention should be paid to such hard-to-reach places as the joints of welded parts on stamped disks.

2. Next comes the most labor-intensive work. After drying, clean the surface of old paint and rust layers. The more thoroughly the cleaning is done, the better the surface will look after painting. For cleaning, use a drill with a wire attachment or coarse sandpaper.

It is necessary to strip to bare metal, especially in areas affected by rust. After everything has been cleaned, the surface is cleaned of dust and sanded with fine sandpaper and wiped off dust again.

Although it is undesirable for the cleaned surface to be exposed to water, it is very difficult to completely clean the disk from dust, especially in the absence of a compressor, so you can rinse the part with water, but immediately after that dry it completely.

3. Now you can apply rust converter to the disc. Since there are many types of converters, as well as methods for working with it, you should do as written on its instructions for use.

The converter should not be neglected, since when it interacts with rust residues and a thin layer of the metal surface, a thin film of chemical compounds is formed, which increases the metal’s resistance to moisture and improves adhesion to primer and paint.

4. When the disc is completely dry, those places where there are large defects - depressions from corrosion, deep scratches - are covered with a layer of two-component automotive putty until the surface is completely leveled.

The putty must be prepared in small portions and applied several times, constantly checking the quality of the work. When applying a thick layer at once, it is difficult to create the desired curvature of the surface. When the putty has dried, its surface is smoothed with fine-grained sandpaper until the desired surface shape is obtained.

Before performing the next work - priming and painting, all surfaces to be painted must be degreased with a solvent and after that it is strictly forbidden to touch them with your hands.

The next stage after preliminary preparation is applying a primer layer. The primer acts as an intermediate layer between the metal of the disc and the paint, increasing the adhesion strength of the materials.

When priming and painting, it is important to follow the requirements of the material manufacturer. First of all, this concerns the temperature at which you can work. Usually this is at least +20 degrees. At lower temperatures, the drying of the applied material worsens, and defects may form on the surface.

The primer must be applied from a certain distance - approximately 20-25 cm in a thin layer, avoiding drips. The primer is applied in several layers, each of which must dry completely. As a result, you need to get a uniform coating of the primer over the entire surface.

After the primer has dried, if necessary, you can correct any defects that appear with fine-grained sandpaper.

Painting is the most important stage. The coloring liquid is applied to the surface of the disc in the same way as a primer, in several thin layers. Each layer should only lightly cover the surface to be painted, which will gradually take on a finished look over and over again.

The break between applying layers should be at least 15-20 minutes. Do not immediately apply a thick layer of paint:

1. Firstly, streaks immediately form, which are then very difficult, and sometimes impossible, to eliminate.
2. Secondly, in a thick layer the paint dries for a long time and unevenly.

As a last resort, if you get sagging, you need to wait until it dries and try to eliminate the defects with fine sandpaper, as in the case of a primer. But this cannot be done on the last layers, since noticeable marks will still remain.

Consumption of materials

How many cans of paint are needed to paint wheels? Experience shows that to paint four circles you will need 1-2 cans of primer and 3-4 cans of paint. If the coloring matter remains, it's not a big deal. It will be much worse if there is not enough of it.

1. You should purchase special paint for wheels, designed specifically for this purpose. It gives greater coating strength than usual.
2. You should not listen to advice to paint the wheels without removing them from the car - through the holes, paint and primer will certainly get onto the calipers and brake discs with all the ensuing consequences.
3. But it is not necessary to remove the rubber. Do-it-yourself painting of stamped wheels from a spray can, as well as painting of cast models, can be done with the wheel assembled - just lay paper between the edge of the disk and the tire and secure everything with masking tape.
4. As a finishing touch, you can put a couple of layers of varnish on top of the paint.
5. It is advisable to purchase primer, paint and varnish from the same manufacturer to avoid compatibility problems. If in doubt, you need to test paint any piece of metal in compliance with all technologies and check the final result.
6. The paint and primer should be approximately the same color, otherwise you will have to apply more coats to get an even coating.
7. It is better to clean cast wheels only with sandpaper, without using a drill with a brush, since the metal of such alloys is softer than stamped ones and deep scratches can form on its surface.

How to paint a disc from a spray can

Every car owner sooner or later thinks about the need to paint alloy wheels due to reasons such as:

• "curb disease";
• peeling paint composition after exposure to road reagents;
• desire to transform the exterior of the car.

In such cases, the driver has several options for the development of events: he continues to drive on shabby alloy wheels, buys new ones, takes the wheels to a service station, where they are restored for a fee, or paints them with his own hands. It is the last method that is considered the cheapest. Here you only need to pay for the cost of the paint.

Spray painting car rims

Other advantages of using paint aerosols for car wheels include:

• possibility of application to an unprepared (unprimed or unpolished) surface;
• creating protection from road abrasives and dirt;
• prevention of corrosion development;
• the ability to spray an aerosol onto a part of any shape.

DIY car rim painting

Consumables

To paint car rims you will need:

• specialized aerosol paint (unlike conventional automotive composition, it is better resistant to damage and high temperatures);
• primer (1-2 cans);
• varnish;
• degreaser;
• solvent;
• sheets of sandpaper with different degrees of grit (from No. 120 to No. 800);
• masking tape;
• car shampoo and microfiber cloth.

Tools and consumables for painting wheels

When purchasing varnish, spray paint or primer, make sure that they are of the same brand and compatible with each other. Please note that you need to select paint that is as wear-resistant as possible.

Based on this, an acrylic or polyurethane based mixture may be suitable for you. It is believed that powder-based paint compositions (contain polyester pigments) have the best qualities. However, to ensure durability, they are applied mainly using professional equipment, which is unlikely to be found in garage conditions.

Painting wheels with spray paint

Preparatory stage

To prepare you need:

• Remove the car wheels. This will minimize the surface covered with masking tape and reduce the likelihood of the product getting on car components.
• Wash the discs from dirt using shampoo and a rag, and in some hard-to-reach places even use a toothbrush.
• Use coarse sandpaper to remove the previous layer of paint and uneven areas.
• Use fine-grained sandpaper to sand the surface of the components.
• Remove remaining dust using a dry cloth or compressed air.
• To prevent the new layer of paint from peeling off, apply a degreaser.
• Cover nearby areas that will not be painted (tires) with masking tape.

After preparations, you can begin applying primer. It is necessary to adhere to all the specified rules for its use: room temperature (it should not be lower than +10 degrees), shaking and the distance from which the composition will be applied (on average 25 cm).

To distribute the material more evenly, apply a thin layer of primer. After finishing work, inspect the disc and, if necessary, go over it with fine-grained sandpaper.

Dyeing process

How to spray paint car wheels? Painting wheel rims with your own hands using a spray can involves testing it. It is carried out on an unnecessary part of the car or any flat surface (garage door, plywood sheet). There are different cans of aerosol paint: some spray the paint in a round spot, while others spray the paint in a fan, like real paint sprayers. It would be preferable to take the second type of paint cans. It will ensure more uniform painting of the borders, although paints in spray cans with a round spot shape have their own advantages - they effectively paint multiple ribs, spokes and other components of the wheel rim. To safely paint a car with your own hands, you need to use:

• respirator;
• glasses;
• overalls;
• special shoes.

Do-it-yourself spray painting of rims

It is especially important to use protective agents when painting with acrylic composition, since it is highly toxic.

Do-it-yourself painting of alloy wheels using a can of aerosol paint is carried out in several layers, each of which is applied at intervals of 15 minutes. After applying the final layer, wait for the composition to dry completely - usually the aerosol dries within 3-4 hours.

Next, you can coat the cast disc with varnish, and then remove the masking tape. To give an even greater mirror effect, you can polish the disc with a special device or product.

Spray painting wheels

Painting your rims is a unique way to transform your car, hide signs of wear and protect them from environmental influences. The protective properties present in the paint will increase the durability of the part and increase its wear resistance. Painting wheel rims with your own hands will not only save costs, but will also give the highest quality results.

Why do you need to paint rims?

The main reason for the idea of ​​​​painting wheel rims arises after identifying mechanical damage (scratches, abrasions), which create an imbalance between the appearance of the car body and the wheels. Wheel paint not only hides these imperfections, but also provides protection against corrosion. Special additives prevent discoloration in the sun, so the appearance will remain the same for several years.

Often you want to highlight your car and make it unique. For this purpose, only bright colors are specifically used, but it all depends on the driver’s preferences. Some paint them with a special luminous paint, which becomes especially expressive in the evening.

Painting wheel rims increases wear resistance, thereby extending service life. The paint allows you to eliminate errors yourself, spending a minimal amount of money, instead of completely replacing the entire disk.

Which paint do you prefer?

The following types of paints are used to cover wheel rims:

Powder paints are divided into 10 types, each of which protects against a specific external influence. But the common feature is high wear resistance and unique properties of the product.

The technology for applying powder paint is quite complex, which requires special equipment. Under the influence of an electrically charged air flow, powder particles rise up the heated oven where the surface to be painted is installed. Polymerization occurs, as a result of which the rims are painted evenly and with high quality.

Using powder paint, almost any coating can be created: glossy, matte, leather imitation, granite and other designs. Disadvantages: low heat resistance, fading in the sun, resulting in yellowness. Application in a garage (without special equipment) is impossible.

Acrylic paint has become widely used due to its waterproofness, protection from precipitation, and corrosion. Apply using brushes, aerosols, spray guns. This paint is very promising for painting rims yourself, as it is not harmful to health and does not emit an odor. Drying occurs within 10 minutes.

Rubber paint stands out because after its application you can notice a dramatic transformation of the disc. The surface can be decorated as glossy, matte, fluorescent, metallic, etc. The paint is waterproof and not exposed to sunlight. The application technology is similar to applying acrylic paint, but spraying is done in 2-3 layers for the highest quality coverage. Each subsequent one is applied only after the first one has dried. This process takes 1-2 hours.

How to choose auto enamel

There are the following types of enamel:

Alkyd enamel has found its widespread use due to its rapid polymerization, as well as good wear resistance. It is excellent for processing wheel rims, as it has anti-corrosion properties and high resistance to weather irritants (snow, rain, dust). In case of repair or varnishing, it is possible to apply a matte finish. Apply a thin layer through a spray can.

Melamine-alkyd enamels are not suitable for independent use, as they require a heating temperature of 110-130C to harden. The main advantage is the strength of the coating, wear resistance and a wide variety of color palettes, including shine and effects such as mother-of-pearl, metallic or simply a matte surface. The disadvantage is the long application time - 3 layers are required, applied after the first has dried, and long drying, which is impossible at home.

Acrylic enamel is the most common paint. It consists of a coloring pigment and a hardener. When applied, these components mix and harden. Used for both glossy and matte finishes. The advantages of this enamel include the absence of the need for varnish, high resistance to external irritants, and quick drying.

Materials for work

Before starting work, you need to prepare all the necessary materials:

Some motorists require a perfect paint job, so for a more professional job you will need:

• compressor and spray gun;
• electric drill with attachments for high-quality removal of old paint and corrosion;
• a construction or household hair dryer or heat gun to speed up the drying process.

The listed devices should only be used by professionals who have experience working with the equipment.

Preparing for painting

1. The wheels are removed from the vehicle and any center caps located on the wheels are removed.
2. Removing tires from rims.
3. The disks are cleaned from dust and dirt. Soap or any other detergent is suitable for this.
4. The disc is diagnosed and all problem areas (chips, blistering paint, scratches) are marked with a marker.
5. Using a wire brush attached to a drill, the old coating is removed. If this is not an option, a good sanding and wire brush will give the same result.
6. Chemical surface treatment - the disc is treated with a solvent using a rag.
7. Deep scratches and pits are repaired with putty. After drying, sanding is performed.
8. Having eliminated all defects, the entire disk is degreased, after which it is hung on a wire.

Painting wheels using a spray can

Application of paint and varnish is carried out in 3 stages:

1. Priming should be done in 2-3 layers for the highest quality coverage. Each subsequent one is applied only after the first one has dried.
2. Painting is carried out similarly to the first point. Paint is sprayed at a distance of 40–50 cm. Particular attention should be paid to hard-to-reach places.
3. Varnishing is the last stage. It is no different from the previous paragraphs. For high-quality shine, it is enough to apply 2 layers.

The final hardening of the varnish will occur in 2–3 days, after which the discs will become available for use.

Material calculation

There are 2 ways of painting: the entire disk as a whole and only the outer side. To paint the entire disc you will need 4-5 cans of paint, the same amount of primer and about 3 cans of varnish. Often this is not necessary, so if the treatment is carried out to improve the appearance, we paint only the outer side. In this case, you will need: 2 cans of paint, 1 primer, 1 varnish.

Precautionary measures

Painting rims is not a difficult task, but there are some rules to keep in mind:

• Applying paint to a carelessly prepared surface will cause it to swell and peel. The work will have to be completely redone.
• Applying a subsequent layer to the previous one that has not dried will lead to swelling of the paint, as a result of which the paintwork will have to be removed.
• When painting a disc, pay attention to weather conditions. Dry and windy weather will help the paint dry faster, but will interfere with the application of the paint coat. Traces of dust and dirt will spoil the appearance of the disc.
• Before starting work, you should wet clean the work area, since when working with a compressor, a powerful air flow raises dust, which falls on the painted surface.
• When working outdoors, insects can become a nuisance. If they stick to the painted surface, continue working and under no circumstances try to remove them by hand. After drying, the defect is corrected by putty.
• There is no need to rush and try to cover the entire surface with one layer. Most often, this causes swelling, which can be removed only after the material has dried and hardened.

Painting your rims is a unique opportunity to improve the appearance of your car without breaking the bank. The protective properties of the paint will ensure the durability of the part and reduce the frequency of their replacement. Independent work will help you save not only on car service, but will also give the most positive result that was intended.

The process of cleaning, priming and painting with a clear step-by-step example at home without the use of additional tools.

A step-by-step (detailed) analysis of how to paint wheel rims at home, with minimal equipment.

Analysis of how to clean a rusty surface using a drill with an attached iron brush and paint with a brush.

Painting car rims using spray paint

Materials for work

With proper attention to detail and diligence, you can achieve a finish that is as good as painting with acrylic enamel from a can. So, to quickly tune wheels you will need:

• paint for rims in cans (specifically for rims, as it is more resistant to heat and mechanical damage);
• a couple of cans of primer;
• clear varnish;
• solvent;
• sandpaper of different grits (No. 120-No. 800);
• detergent and soft bristle brush;
• masking tape.

When purchasing primer, paint and varnish, it is recommended to give preference to products from the same company, and it is advisable to check their compatibility in the store. Once you are the proud owner of the above set, head to the garage and remove the wheels from the car.

Preparing wheels for painting

First of all, the discs need to be thoroughly washed from dirt and tar using a rosary and detergent. In hard-to-reach places, you can use a toothbrush or a small hard brush. After washing the discs clean, remove the old paint and possible unevenness with sandpaper, then thoroughly sand the surface of the disc with fine sandpaper. If small pits and scratches remain, it doesn’t matter, the primer will cover them.

Dust from old paint and metal can be blown off with compressed air, but if you don’t have a compressor at hand, wipe the discs with a dry cloth. After this, the surface to be painted must be degreased with a solvent so that the paint does not peel off.

When the wheel is degreased, you need to cover all areas that will not be painted - for example, tires, if the wheel is not dismantled. For this, masking tape or a deck of plastic playing cards, carefully tucked between the disk and rubber with a slight overlap, will be useful. After this, you can move on to the primer.

Strictly follow all the instructions written on the can: temperature, shaking, application distance. Prime in thin layers so that the material is distributed evenly. After the last layer has dried, critically inspect the primed surface again and, if necessary, go over problem areas with fine sandpaper so that the disc becomes completely smooth.

Painting wheels using a spray can

Shake the can as directed and test it on a surface, such as a piece of plywood or a garage door. Spray cans can produce a round torch, or they can spray paint in a fan like a real spray gun. The second option is preferable, because it gives a clear overlap boundary, and the paint applies more evenly.

After applying several layers of paint at intervals of 10-15 minutes, let it dry completely. When the paint has dried, you can coat the disc with varnish for greater shine and preservation of the paint. Wait for the varnish to dry and remove the masking tape. Spray painting rims is a completely acceptable option if you approach the matter responsibly. The main thing is not to rush and follow the recommendations of the paint manufacturer.

The quality of spray painting will depend, first of all, on the chosen technique. In this case, it is best to buy cylinders with sprayers that produce a round torch. However, if you come across spray cans with a vertical torch, you can paint them too. It’s just that when the spray is in the shape of a circle, the material used when painting discs is more economical.

Wheels often have a complex shape with many holes, ribs, spokes and other elements. When painting them, it is very important that the material completely covers all surfaces and penetrates into all holes. This is easier to do with a round torch.

At the same time, the complex shape of the discs forgives minor painting flaws. Small specks of dust can hardly be seen. Large shagreen will not spoil the appearance too much. However, when painting from a can with ordinary nitro enamels, there is no big shagreen if you do everything according to the instructions.

Applying varnish

If we are talking about painting wheels from spray cans, this does not necessarily mean that you need to varnish them in the same way. However, spray cans are often used due to the lack of a spray gun and compressor. If necessary, you can purchase not only paint and varnish in aerosol form, but also primer and even liquid putty.

The varnish should be applied using the same movements as paint. The task remains the same - to cover all surfaces of the disk. It is better to give three coats of varnish, but not to make them too thick. The optimal break time between applications is 10 minutes.

It is not necessary to varnish the discs. If we are talking about metallics, then yes. However, varnish not only gives shine, but also protects the paint itself. At the same time, the varnish is the first to encounter stones and abrasive, from which traces remain. Fortunately, scratches in the varnish can be easily polished out.

Repair of paintwork on wheel rims

If the disc is scratched and polishing does not completely eliminate the damage, then it is best to repaint the entire disc. To do this, you need to sand it with sandpaper No. 1500-2000, and remove the scratch itself to the metal. If necessary, the damaged area can be puttied, but only with a very thin layer.

A couple of spray cans are usually enough to paint all four discs. That is, for one disk you need to spend half a cylinder. Since discs get scratched quite often, it is advisable to always have spare cans of paint on hand. With their help, you can very quickly update the coating.

When eliminating deep scratches and chips, you should not completely remove the old paint - just matte it. An extra protective layer will not hurt the discs at all. In this regard, the more varnish you put on, the deeper the scratch can be polished out.

Painting wheels with liquid rubber

Plasti Dip material in cans has recently been often used for painting wheel rims. In its frozen form, this paint resembles rubber in its structure. This is not to say that painting wheels with Plasti Dip always gives excellent results. Their appearance immediately after applying liquid rubber becomes quite attractive, but soon the coating may begin to peel off.

Liquid rubber adheres well if the surface covered with it maintains its integrity. The slightest scratch leads to curling of the edges and further scuffing. But if a scratch is detected in time, then it is enough to apply a couple of layers of fresh liquid rubber to this place. Before doing this, you need to thoroughly wash the disc from dirt and degrease it with alcohol.

The peculiarity of Plasti Deep paint is a very original method of removal - the layer is peeled off like skin. You can remove paint from all four discs in minutes. New paint can be applied without prior preparation and degreasing.

Mini report on wheel painting

geef wrote: 03/15/2016 12:26

Mini report on wheel painting

Hi all.
I want to make a topic about painting wheels yourself, maybe someone will be interested.
It all started with the fact that I bought a gtshu, along with it I got Rays Gram Lights discs.
Nice, strong, lightweight wheels, but they don't fit the Brembo. At first I wanted to sell them, but it didn’t work out, I decided to keep them and install them with spacers, since I like the wheels themselves. There was one BUT, they were badly dented and scratched. I decided to sandblast and paint them. Since the Gtsha cramps have no interior, only for the track, I don’t have any special complaints about the painting and decided to paint them myself, and my sporting interest doesn’t let me go. Their initial state was like this:

Before the painting epic began, I removed the rubber from the rims, since I had access to a tire changing machine and it didn’t cost me anything.
Next, I spun the discs separately on a balancing machine and checked them for runout and figure eights.
In my case, everything turned out to be fine, but I strongly recommend everyone to do this procedure before painting, since if the discs need to be rolled, then during rolling all your painting efforts will be reduced to zero, the paint will be erased on the rim. At first I thought of sanding them by hand, but then the option came up to borrow a sandblast from a friend.
I was warned that it was homemade and small, and I would be sandblasting the wheels for a long time, but I decided that in any case it was much better than sanding. Three bags of 40 kg of fine construction sand were purchased, the cost of one bag of sand was 150 rubles.
A 10 atmosphere compressor with a 400 liter receiver was found. The process itself took about an hour per disk. I warn you right away, if someone wants to repeat this, you need to change clothes and find a place where there is nothing for five meters around that you wouldn’t mind getting dirty with dust, since there will be sand everywhere within a radius of 5-7 meters. You need to buy thick, high rubber gloves, since being hit by a stream of sand under a pressure of 10 atmospheres in your hand is not the most pleasant feeling in life. You definitely need eye protection - otherwise you are guaranteed a trip to the doctor. I had a mask for working with an angle grinder - not the best option, but it did the job. The only thing I didn’t change was my sneakers, which I greatly regretted later, the sand was very fine and washing my sneakers was not an easy task. I think that rubber boots and thick trousers over the boots will be just right. Or a one-piece painting suit.

After this, the discs were cleaned and degreased. I used regular white spirit, but I think any solvent will do. It is necessary to remove all the dust that remains from sandblasting. In my case, there was a problem with removing the “Gram Lights” sticker. The sticker did not want to be removed by sandblasting, so I had to peel it off with a knife, then sandblast the paint underneath it.

To clean and paint the discs, I chose a spare room on the second floor of my house and covered the floor with film.
The experience of spilling white spirit on it showed that the solvent does not dissolve it, and this is good. The room had not yet been completely renovated, so I didn’t mind getting the floor or walls dirty. The doorways were sealed with foam boards to prevent the smell from affecting the entire house. I warn everyone who wants to repeat that the smell will be strong and disgusting, so if possible, then this should be done in a garage or other technical room.
In order to paint the wheels later, it is advisable that the room be warm and there is no access to outside air, since it carries dust that we do not need. White spirit and a rag were found on the third floor of the house - free of charge. In a store, a bottle of white spirit will cost 100 rubles.

After cleaning and degreasing, I started priming. I bought a regular all-purpose gray primer from a hardware store. I took the gray one so that it could be seen against the background of the white paint of the wheels.

The manufacturer recommends applying several thin layers, which is what I did.
First I sprayed a little, the second layer was made a little thicker, the third was the same as the second. Allow 20 minutes to dry between coats, as the manufacturer claims a touch-dry time of 20 minutes. As far as I understand, thin layers help to avoid soil leaks and, accordingly, problems in the future. I’ll say right away that my discs have quite large scratches on the rim and they needed to be puttied properly, but since I’m a handyman and a writhing machine, I didn’t do this, so as not to make the appearance even worse and not harm the balance of the discs.
Here's what happened:

Guided by the text on the back of the can of primer, I left the discs to dry for a day until the primer was completely dry.
It took me almost two cylinders of primer for three layers on all 4 discs.
The soil cost 195 rubles per bottle. It took about two hours to complete everything, including cleaning and priming the discs.

Today I will paint the wheels, tomorrow I will apply varnish. To be continued.