How to choose alloy wheels for a car

How to choose the right wheels for your car

Sometimes some novice car owners are faced with the need to replace one or more disks, and this task turns out to be more difficult than it looks from the outside. And no wonder: 4*108, 6J, ET47, Dia 63.3, R15 - what is all this?! Let's figure it out together.

Choose the right wheels for your existing car, simultaneously understanding all the necessary parameters.

Regardless of what kind of car you have, when choosing new wheels you need to consider the following parameters:

disk type;
mounting (or landing) diameter;
number and diameter of mounting holes (PCD);
disk width;
disc ejection (ET);
diameter of the central (hub) hole;
shape of mounting holes;
presence of humps.

Let’s make a reservation right away: if at this point you have lost the desire to deal with all these parameters, when choosing wheels, just use the car selection service in large online stores. There you can simply indicate the model of your car and get wheels that are guaranteed to suit it in all respects. Well, if the determination to find out everything is still with you, then let's get started.

Based on the type of manufacturing, all discs are generally divided into three types: stamped, cast and forged. The question of choosing a specific type is a topic for a separate article, but here we will present the main differences.

Stamped wheels are the cheapest: these are the same wheels that you see on the basic trim levels of budget cars, and they are usually covered with plastic decorative caps. They are made of steel and painted with enamel. Among their advantages, in addition to the lowest price, is high maintainability. The fact is that stamped discs do not break when hit, but become wrinkled, and can be easily repaired later. The main disadvantage of such wheels is their high weight and lack of design: this is a purely functional product.

Alloy wheels compete with stamped wheels in popularity. Such discs are made not of steel, but of a lighter alloy - usually aluminum. Thanks to manufacturing technology, cast wheels can have a wide variety of shapes, which, combined with a lighter weight than “stamps,” makes them popular. Among the disadvantages of such wheels, we can mention a higher price and lower maintainability: alloy wheels do not wrinkle when subjected to a strong impact, but crack. Of course, the technology of welding repair and rolling has long been mastered, but it is impossible to guarantee the preservation of the original properties after repair.

Forged wheels are the highest quality and most expensive option. They are manufactured using the hot die forging method, which provides the best internal metal structure and, accordingly, the highest strength at the lowest weight. The downside of this method is the low prevalence of products and the high price.

In addition to the above three types, there are also so-called prefabricated discs - but this is already exotic, and we will not touch on them. In general, for the average car owner the choice is between inexpensive, but boring stamped wheels and more expensive and beautiful alloy wheels.

This is a very obvious parameter: the diameter of the disc circumference in inches. As a rule, it is designated by the letter R: that is, the R 17 wheel has a diameter of 17 inches.

Let us especially note: the letter R itself does not refer to the diameter and comes from the tire parameters, where it is also mistakenly used to mean “radius”, in reality implying the seat diameter of the tire. In the case of a tire, R is a marking of the radial cord structure, but for a disk this marking is actually not relevant. However, the erroneous “radius” in the meaning of “diameter” and the accompanying R are so ingrained in speech that most sellers and disk selection services use it by default.

The permissible rim diameters for your vehicle are indicated in the owner's manuals and on stickers in doorways - along with the recommended tire pressure. When buying tires, it is worth remembering that their seat diameter must match the diameter of the rims.

It is not recommended to exceed the maximum diameter specified by the manufacturer: discs that are too large, in addition to potential geometric incompatibility, change the suspension operating parameters, affecting wear of the chassis. In addition, the larger the disc and the lower the rubber profile, the less comfort it promises to travel on bad roads. However, changes in diameter within the limits specified in the manual, and even an inch more, as a rule, occur without significant consequences.

This is the so-called “bolt pattern”: the number of holes and the diameter of the circle on which they are located (by the way, the English PCD is just the diameter of the circle, “Pitch Circle Diameter”). The number of mounting bolts can vary and increases with the weight and speed of the vehicle: usually there are 4-6, but it can be more or less (minimum 3). Most VAZ cars have a 4x98 bolt pattern, with the exception of Oka (3x98) and Niva (5x139.7), as well as new models like Largus (4x100).

The disc bolt pattern must be observed: despite the fact that some discs - for example, 4x98 and 4x100 - seem to be interchangeable, this is not the case. A seemingly insignificant 2 millimeter difference in the diameter of the circle on which the mounting holes lie will greatly affect the installation: only one of the four fastenings will be correctly tightened, and the rest will be offset from the center, causing the wheel to run out. The problem can be partly solved by using bolts with a “floating cone” (more on them below), but in general, the use of disks with inappropriate bolt pattern parameters should be avoided.

This parameter is as simple as diameter: it is the width of the rim in inches. Usually in the list of parameters it is designated by the letter J: for example, 5.5 J is a disk five and a half inches wide.

The width of the disk is usually indicated in the same places as the permissible mounting diameter, along with it. In addition to the geometric parameters for the car, the width of the rim is also important when choosing tires: the tire is designed for use with a rim of a certain width, but with a certain permissible error.

Disk offset is the distance from the mating plane of the disk to the hub to the longitudinal axis of symmetry of the disk. Let's put it simply: the central axis of symmetry is a line dividing the disk in half along the width described above, and the mating plane is the point where the disk comes into contact with the hub and is screwed to it.

The offset can be positive, zero and negative: if the axis of symmetry lies closer to the car than the mating plane, then the offset is positive, if they are on the same axis, then the offset is zero, and if the axis of symmetry is more distant from the car than the mating plane, then it is positive . In other words, the greater the offset, the deeper the disc sits in the wheel arch, and the smaller it is, the more the disc protrudes outward.

Reach is a fairly important parameter: it also directly affects the performance of the suspension and wheel bearings. Incorrect offset not only increases or decreases the track, but can also cause accelerated wear of the undercarriage and bearings.

The diameter of the central hole is a parameter that does not need additional explanation. In the list of disc characteristics, it is usually designated as "Dia", "DIA" or "D". This is also an extremely important indicator: if the central hole of the disk is smaller than required, the disk simply cannot be installed, and if it is larger, then centering rings will be required to center the disk on the hub.

Many people mistakenly believe that when installed, a disc with a center hole that is too large will center itself on the hub by tightening the bolts, but this is not the case. Accordingly, runout and vibration that do not disappear after balancing the wheels is a reason to check the coincidence of the diameters of the central hole of the disk and the hub and the presence, if necessary, of centering rings.

The shape of the mounting holes is important in terms of the type of bolts or nuts that will secure the drive. As a rule, bolts and nuts for stamped discs have only a slightly conical shape of the plane adjacent to the disc when tightened, and the bolts are also noticeably shorter in length.

The latter is due to the minimum thickness of the stamped disk. A cast disk is noticeably thicker than a stamped one, and in addition, its mounting hole has a more pronounced conical shape, which requires the use of different fasteners. In addition to the conical seat, the mounting hole of some disks can be designed for the use of fasteners with a hemispherical and flat working part.

And one more thing: there are bolts with a so-called “floating cone”: they allow you to partially compensate for a slight discrepancy between the PCD disk and the required parameters. The working conical part of such bolts is made in the form of a separate ring placed on the bolt and moves relative to the longitudinal axis of the bolt when tightened.

Humps are protrusions on the outer surface of the rim that secure the tubeless tire to the rim. Remember the popping noise that is heard when a tire shop inflates a tire after installing it on a rim? This is the moment of “landing” of the tire: the bead ring of the tire sits between the hump and the edge of the rim. In fact, this indicator is listed last in our material, because at present it is practically not relevant: almost all modern wheels are designed to accommodate tubeless tires and have humps.

However, if, for example, you decide to purchase retro wheels of considerable age, keep in mind that they may well be designed to install exclusively tube tires without having humps. However, you can install tubeless tires on them, but the question of its tight fit, as well as safety when driving, will remain open: if there is insufficient pressure in the tire, the risk of “taking off your shoes” in a turn will be very high.

How to choose wheels

How casting differs from forging, what offset is and why it is so important to take into account the recommendations of the car manufacturer - about all the intricacies of choosing rims in our review

Geometric parameters of the disk

When choosing wheels for “ordinary” use (we do not take into account various types of tuning), we strongly recommend that you stick to the parameters that are as close as possible to the factory ones. Why is this so important? Significant changes in parameters such as width, offset, diameter and weight of the disk can affect both the safety and ease of driving the vehicle, and the service life of the chassis components. So, for example, if we talk about the diameter of the disk, then its too large value (with the same outer diameter of the wheel) will adversely affect its weight.

When choosing rims, the proverb “measure seven times” is true.

More wheel weight means more unsprung masses, which, in turn, leads not only to an increased load on the suspension, but also to a deterioration in the smoothness of the vehicle. Also, due to greater inertia, a heavy wheel follows the road profile less readily, while a lighter wheel maintains tire contact with the surface longer, improving vehicle stability. In addition, an increase in wheel weight to some extent worsens equally important characteristics - the braking and acceleration dynamics of the car. Needless to say, larger diameter wheels shod with low-profile tires are easier to damage on Russian roads.

Larger diameter wheels shod with low-profile tires are easier to damage on Russian roads

An excessive increase in wheel width coupled with wider tires to a certain extent has its advantages (the car’s susceptibility to lateral loads improves), but there are, perhaps, more disadvantages: in addition to the increase in weight, this can have a worse effect on the vehicle’s stability when driving along longitudinal unevenness. On a rut, a car with wider wheels will obviously be less stable, and its handling will become more “nervous”. But even more “harmful” is playing with the wheel’s run-in, which can worsen the situation even more: the smaller the run-out (the wheel “sticks out” more), the more the optimal wheel running-in shoulder is disrupted (most often negative), the more sensitive it becomes to irregularities steering, and the load on the chassis elements is greater. Another danger of increasing the break-in shoulder is the lack of a stabilizing torque when braking with one of the faulty brake circuits. How far can you deviate from the standard parameters? There is no clear answer, because the chassis of each car is individual and reacts to such changes differently, but changes in offset by 2-3 mm most often remain without consequences.

We strongly recommend using standard size discs, and the smaller the disc diameter, the better. This statement is true at least for the majority of populated and not so populated areas of our country

When choosing, don’t be lazy and “try on” the rims to the tires - this can be done in numerous tire calculators. The rim should not be too wide or too narrow: for example, for a 205/55R16 tire, the rim width should range from 5.5 to 7.5 inches, but it is better to stick to the middle ground and go with a 6.5 x 16 rim.

Case material and price

The fact that alloy wheels are lighter than stamped ones should not mislead you. As a rule, a cast disk is either similar in weight or slightly lighter than a comparable steel one. However, most often when replacing disks, car owners try to increase the diameter of the wheel, and this entails an inevitable increase in weight, which, as we have already found out, does not lead to anything good. As a rule, an increase in rim diameter by 1 inch, coupled with an increase in tire width, makes the wheel assembly heavier by an average of 20–30%. But chasing low weight is also reckless. If a tire store salesperson offers you a “cast” that is too light, be wary: little-known companies, most often of Chinese origin, often actually produce extremely light wheels that do not stand up to criticism in terms of their strength.

Documents talking about the certification of Chinese wheels often turn out to be “fake” - not only will you be tortured to “roll” such wheels, but you’ll have to look for new ones to replace the ones that burst!

Forged wheels, of course, differ for the better in this sense: they are noticeably stronger and lighter, but due to the labor intensity of manufacturing, their price is noticeably higher, and the supply on the market is poorer: only 10% of the presented wheel manufacturing companies have in their assortment of forged wheels. “Forging” has another feature: when hitting an obstacle, the disc may retain its integrity, but the sidewall of the tire will take the entire impact, which in most cases is pointless to restore. Flying into holes, as you can see, is unprofitable in any case.

In addition to many Chinese ones, discs from some Russian manufacturers, and less often from European ones, also suffer from low strength. That is why when choosing, you should pay special attention to the status and integrity of the brand. If you don’t have such confidence, then it’s time to remember the golden words of Boris Razor from the movie “Big Snatch”: “Weight is reliability!”

Price is perhaps the determining factor when choosing wheels. And when it comes to tight finances, I recommend not chasing the beauty and size of rims - it is much wiser to choose standard and affordable stampings, and the money saved is better spent on high-quality tires - in this case, the performance characteristics of the car will remain at the same level, including the stability of the wheels to breakdown and ease of straightening disks when they are deformed. The design issue is resolved by installing additional caps (either factory or non-standard). It's another matter if the budget is not limited. In this case, the choice is simplified: it is best to consider the most proven brands. It would be better if it was a light forging, but even here we do not recommend chasing a low tire profile - safety is more expensive.

Estimated prices in online stores for the most popular wheel models suitable for Ford Focus 3 (PCD 5*108, Dia 63.3):

Choosing alloy wheels, what and how to choose, help and advice in choosing

When it comes to buying wheels for a car, you often cannot do without the help of specialists. After all, the most common mistakes made by motorists when making their own choice are, at first glance, trivial, but they either result in loss of money or have a negative impact on the safety of the driver and his passengers.

Firstly, the disc may simply not fit the car’s hub. For example, you selected Opel wheels of the appropriate size for a VAZ or Zhiguli, and then, when installing the wheels, you found out that they only fit in appearance. In fact, the holes for mounting the disc and the diameter of the hub are different for these cars.

It also happens that outwardly the dimensions seem to match, but the disk does not want to fall into place. What is the reason - specialists from a professional trade and service center who have relevant literature at hand will be able to explain. The website has a special service for selecting wheels for a car, which will show all available options. Without leaving your computer, you can get advice from online store specialists.

Secondly, car enthusiasts often do not take into account that light-alloy wheels, which are larger in the mounting area, require longer bolts. Including the so-called “secrets”. The short ones that come with the car, like standard ones, “catch” several threads and can break off on the road. There is probably no point in describing the consequences of such a nuisance: a wheel falling off, a car losing control.

The opposite oversight: the mounting bolts you purchased were too long for the drive. In this case, when they rotate, they touch the stationary parts of the car. For example, the handbrake cable spring in the rear drum of a Zhiguli. It is difficult to choose bolts of the optimal length yourself. Again, this is the case when consultation or direct assistance from a specialist is needed.

Of course, you can buy original wheels that the manufacturer recommends for a specific car. Often the “originals” are made in Germany. For BMW, Mercedes or Audi, the original wheel will definitely come with a set of mounting bolts. It has only one drawback - the high price.

Do you want a combination of price and quality? You can consider the option of a “second set” of disks. These are high-quality wheels that are produced by factories in the same countries: Germany, Taiwan or Italy. The fastening rings, bolts or nuts for them are supplied as a “shaft”. It is not difficult for a specialist to figure out which fasteners are needed for a particular disk. He knows for sure that for wheels with the same hub diameter, say d75, which are equally suitable for Mercedes and Audi, the first car needs 66.6 rings and 12x1.5 mounting nuts/bolts, the second car needs rings of size 57.1, nuts/bolts 14x1.5. However, some Mercedes models require 14x1.5 mounting nuts/bolts. It happens that market sellers or traders in small shops do not know about these subtleties. Therefore, it is better to make such purchases in specialized centers.

Every car enthusiast wants to make his car different from the others, standing out from the crowd. Stylish wheels are one of the most affordable ways to provide it with individuality, and for those who want to see what new wheels will look like on their car, we have a convenient service - online fitting of wheels by car brand. But first you need to find out what needs to be done if the selected rims do not fit the car perfectly.

Magnesium or aluminum?

Probably, we will not make a discovery if we say that when installing alloy wheels on a car, car owners, first of all, think not about their advantages, but about how the car will look. Looking at the brand new, glossy wheels, you can’t help but think: “How long will they stay like this?”

Aluminum alloy wheels are more resistant to water, salt, road chemicals and mechanical damage. In addition to a special coating and varnish that is resistant to destruction, the surface of the aluminum alloy disc is protected by a durable oxide film, the coefficient of thermal expansion of which is approximately the same as that of the metal itself. Aluminum utensils used in everyday life also have such a film - this is a unique property of this metal. How stable this film is is evidenced by the fact that at low temperatures aluminum does not dissolve even in nitric acid concentrate!

A similar oxide film exists on magnesium alloy discs, but it is not nearly as dense. Due to its “looseness,” it does not resist further oxidation of the metal. However, magnesium alloy wheels are lighter than aluminum alloy wheels. But, due to the reasons described above, they are more susceptible to the effects of salt and reagents on the roads.

Exploitation

So: the disks and mounting bolts for them are available, everything fits perfectly on the car. It seems that the wheels were only recently balanced, the weights are all in place, but there are already signs of imbalance: vibration in the wheels and “spotty” wear on the treads. Perhaps the reason is in the disk. In theory, the action of inertial force should be sufficient for its self-cleaning, and infrequent visits to the cosmetic wash eliminate what the laws of physics could not cope with.

The rapid accumulation of dirt between the spokes of the disc, when it has to be picked out, means that in pursuit of fashion or in an effort to increase strength, the manufacturer poorly designed the disc. It should also be remembered that wheel balancing may need to be adjusted from time to time. It is better to choose self-adhesive balancing weights for wheels. At the attachment point, where the bracket of a standard weight is driven in, the varnish is damaged, and the lead, interacting with the metal of the disk, accelerates the corrosion process many times over.

In addition, standard brackets are originally designed for use on stamped steel wheels and hold weights on a cast wheel much less well.

Certification

There is an opinion that light alloy wheels are inferior in strength to conventional steel stampings. The reality is that a cast disc can crack only with an impact, which will also disable the “stamping”. It is enough to know that Russian certification standards for alloy wheels are much stricter than American, European or Japanese. When developing them, the condition of roads in our country was taken into account. At first, when importers were just exploring our market, they often recalled products in order to modify them in accordance with Russian requirements. Another thing is that when buying a disc, it would be a good idea to ask the seller to show a quality certificate for the product.

Following these recommendations will help you make a good, quality purchase. As a result, you will receive not only the external aesthetics of the car, but also a guarantee of safety during its operation.

How to choose alloy wheels

In this article we will talk about how to choose the right alloy wheels, what parameters you should pay attention to, and what nuances there are when choosing and installing them.

The content of the article:

What are cast ones made from?
Options when selecting drives
Replacement and installation of alloy wheels

First of all, when tuning a car, car enthusiasts immediately try to install new wheels, replacing the standard wheels with alloy ones. Today there are many configurations and types of alloy wheels. Young car enthusiasts often install wheels of this type on domestic cars, and it’s true, they immediately change the appearance for the better. But the replacement procedure is not always so simple. It is necessary to select the size of the wheel arches, so that later it does not rub on the fender liners; the parameter that is responsible for this is usually considered to be the diameter.

What are cast ones made from?

The material from which the discs are made is considered very important. Nowadays they are made from titanium alloy (very rarely), aluminum or magnesium alloys. Aluminum alloy wheels are considered one of the best. Most often they can be found in expensive auto stores. They are less susceptible to corrosion and look more attractive.

Options when selecting drives

Each owner chooses the design and color individually; here one can argue ad infinitum. You can pick it up both on the market and in a specialized car shop and they will show you what your car will look like with themes or other rims.

Disc material

Design is not the main thing when choosing, but what the element is made from plays a role. Based on the composition of the material, one can recognize:

Cast aluminum - the most optimal in terms of the combination of qualities;

Forged aluminum - durable and lightweight;

Forged magnesium - ultra-strong and lightweight.

I would like to say right away that you should not take magnesium ones - both cast and forged ones cost a lot of money, they are often made to order and only for sports cars. Prices can start from $1000 per piece. Therefore, it is better to take the optimal ratio between the price of cast wheels and the price of the car, since buying a car for $5,000 and investing another $4,000 in wheels makes no sense, and the quality will not improve for the better.

Regarding the diameter of the cast ones, you should select the best option; it is often advised to take the same diameter as the original wheels; because of this, the tire will not rub against the fender liners, the wings will not tear when turning, and even when the axle is loaded, this will not occur. problems. It is customary to measure it not in centimeters, but in inches. It is allowed to take a slightly larger diameter, but then you will have to take a smaller diameter tire. But given our roads, low-profile tires are not the best option; they will quickly ruin the wheels. If a regular disc can be welded, then a cast one, unfortunately, even after brewing it will not be enough for a long time. For a couple of thousand kilometers, or until the first good impact. It can only be welded using argon welding. The maximum that can be done is to roll the disc when it becomes deformed.

Departure (ET45)

Next on the list is the PCD parameter, or in other words, the diameter of the centers of the mounting holes and their number. The store will recommend which sizes will fit your car. Sometimes car enthusiasts still buy unsuitable wheels and then completely change the hub, or install special stands, this will allow them to adjust the car’s parameters to the wheels.

When installing disks, make sure that the mounting bolts are of the appropriate size; they should not be too short or too long. If they are too short, they will be cut off at the hub. If they are too long, they can press and damage the brake disc or other moving parts of the wheel.

Some manufacturers indicate the DIA parameter, the diameter of the central hole of the disk (measured from the side of the mating plane, measured in mm), often they try to select the optimal size bolts for this parameter. If the hub has not been replaced, then the auto shop will immediately tell you which bolts are best to take.

Replacement and installation of alloy wheels

You should not replace alloy wheels at home using the old-fashioned method, as you will immediately leave marks and damage on the disks. The first thing you should do after purchasing is to install and try on the alloy wheel without a tire on the hub of your car. We remove the original wheel and install a new disk; if all the parameters have been followed, then it should look like original the first time. After installation, move it around, it should not move, there should be no play. Now we put the original wheel back on and go to the service station to change the car’s shoes.

When purchasing, many people wonder how to avoid falling for a fake. I will say that only experienced specialists can determine the quality by eye, and no one in the store will allow you to conduct a test. Usually sellers will persuade you to buy exactly those that they consider the best (this is not always the case), you should not trust them, since they are not always honest and objective. It is better to buy discs in specialized stores with a guarantee; often such stores value their reputation and will not sell low-quality goods. Do not hesitate to request documents for the discs and a quality certificate from the manufacturer.

Popular brands worth mentioning are Asanti, Lexani, Fuel, Vellano, Rucci. Prices for discs can vary from $50 to $5000–6000. For example, such a cast wheel LEXANI FORGED 105, the cost of which starts from $1000, is often equipped with such wheels on expensive sports cars.

Video on how to choose the right alloy wheels:

Video with tips about fitting:

1. Selection of wheels for the car - there are nuances.

Let's reveal a little secret - most automatic selection of wheel rims for a car is imperfect.
The reason lies not even in the programmers, but rather in the wheel manufacturers themselves. And in car manufacturers as well. Let’s show it using the example of selecting wheels for a BMW 3 (I myself once owned this car, and that’s why I know it’s not easy to figure it out).

We see a rather impressive list of acceptable sizes for BMW.
The only difference between the 11 options of acceptable sizes is the different combinations of diameter, rim width and disc offset .
For most cars, everything is much simpler - up to 2 options in each diameter. You need to decide on the diameter and desired width of the rim, then make a selection and choose wheels to your liking. However, it is always worth checking what exactly the selection of wheels for your car offers.
First of all, pay attention to the width of the rim of the disc. For “wide” tires, you need to take a wider rim, it’s simple. Typically, wider wheels and tires are chosen for the summer season, and narrower ones for the winter season. So far, no selection allows you to select “summer/winter wheels”, since such a concept does not exist in principle.
Read more about how to choose disks by size in the next paragraph. If you don’t want to study the technical part of the selection, just ask the manager if the disks you like are suitable for you. This is the easiest way.

2. Selection of disks by standard sizes - it's simple!

First, of course, you will have to find out the wheel sizes for your car.
It should be remembered that the main parameter is the PCD (drilling, bolt pattern) of the disk. You can “play” with the remaining parameters. We need to do a little analysis of 3 indicators.

Disc rim width - find out the exact required width and make a note for yourself that you can take +- 0.5 inches from the original width. If you plan to take wheels 1 inch wider than the original ones, be careful with the choice of tires; most likely, you will also have to choose tires 10-20 mm wider.

The diameter of the central hole of the disk - (Dia) - this indicator is important for those who have a car under warranty. If you take disks with a central center diameter larger than the original one, install adapter rings (or not install them, as desired), then during seasonal re-shoeing the dealer technical center will notice this and may remove the suspension from warranty. BUT, if your car is no longer under warranty, then you can take wheels with a center diameter larger than the original one. Quite often, manufacturing plants produce wheels with dia 73.1 - this is a universal size so that, with adapter rings, the wheels fit a large number of cars.

Disc offset - (the idea is ripening, we will add it soon) - this indicator does not appear in any way in the technical passport of the car. This is an approximate indicator with which you can safely play both in one direction and in the other. For example, on a Ford Focus, the original offset parameters are 50 mm and 52.5 mm. It’s the same for Mazda 3, the original one is considered 50, but they can easily fit with 45mm, and it is IMPORTANT that the car dealerships themselves boldly buy wheels with such an offset and give a guarantee on them. Yes, if you buy wheels with a large difference in offset somewhere other than a car dealership, they may find fault if they find out. So it’s best to tactfully remain silent. Why can they find fault - car dealerships earn a lot on extras. equipment.

3. Which brand of rims should I choose?

Choosing a brand of rims is difficult, just like choosing a brand, for example, a telephone. Manufacturers' approaches are the same: some are chasing beauty, some are after reliability, others are simply churning out “one-season” products. What should you rely on when choosing?

First, if this is important to you, find out the country of manufacture from the brand you like.
For example, if the name says Japan, this does not mean at all that the discs were made in Japan. Second, find out how much the selected brand is sold on the Russian market.
Third, probably the most important thing, find more reviews.
Fourth, find out what technologies are used in manufacturing.

Our experts try to periodically publish truthful reviews of the brands that are posted on our website. Including all the pros and cons. You can study the information on our website, or ask the managers - they are always aware of information about the features of a particular brand.

4. Which design should I choose?

There’s not even much to recommend here - choose what you like. But still there are several nuances.

The color of the discs in the photo may differ slightly from what is in reality.
The shades of gray and silver are particularly different. And it often happens that the wheels don’t look “very good” in the photo, but as soon as you install them on the car, the wheels “sparkle” in a new light. When communicating with clients, we try to tell them which discs look more interesting. It’s nice to hear that it turns out that “the wheels are really beautiful, but you can’t tell right away.”

5. What questions should you ask the seller?

6. TOP 5 questions answered by our managers.

Hello, do you have rims/wheels/tires? — No, we were joking (I couldn’t resist, the most popular question).
Is this price per set?
Can I come and have a look?
Where and when were these discs made?
Are they really Japanese?
What gifts do you have?

7. What should the seller tell you about the discs proposed for sale?

1. Tell us about the terms of return and warranty.
2. How to properly try on wheel rims before installing tires.
This is really important! 3. If possible, advise on the experience of installing these disks on your car.
At a minimum, analyze the disk parameters. 4. Offer fasteners (bolts, nuts) and select their dimensions.
5. If there is any promotion for this brand, then the manager must, by default, notify the client about its existence.

Let's summarize.
After reading this article, you should have a clear understanding of how to behave with wheel rim sellers, what to ask, what to look for, where to ask for help.
If you have any questions, call!

Store team 4 moving .