Restoring a car body from rust

DIY rusty body repair

How to get rid of rust on a car body is a question that worries most owners of used cars. There are not many options, go to a service station, or take care of the problem yourself. Many people do not know how to deal with rust on a car body, so they often simply cover it with paint, but this method does not save for long, but rust is not fatal, so let’s look at ways to get rid of it.

Ways to get rid of rust

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Of course, the most correct and drastic solution in the fight against corrosion would be to replace the entire part, however:

It happens that such a part cannot be obtained, or its cost exceeds reasonable limits, but you always want to save money;
Therefore, now we will figure out how to remove rust on a car body with our own hands;
There are several methods, and they are all quite labor-intensive;
Modern cars have a galvanized body, at least most;
This prevents corrosion from developing, however, with deep scratches, creases and chips, the protective zinc layer is damaged;
How can you make sure that the body of your car is galvanized?
It is enough to study the passport data of your car;
Either very carefully scrape off the paint from an inconspicuous area of the body, not forgetting to paint it afterwards;
Car bodies are not made of stainless steel, most likely it is a matter of production cost, so the problem of rust remains relevant;
It is necessary to observe safety precautions, use goggles and rubber gloves when performing body work to avoid contact with chemicals on the body.

Rust does not show through

If the body is affected by rust in several places, it is necessary to thoroughly wash these places with car shampoo before starting work, then:

After the case has dried, all problem areas should be treated with coarse sandpaper, or use a metal brush;
It is not recommended to use a grinder because the stripping discs remove a layer of metal;
Only discs with plastic soles are suitable for performing this procedure;
Use an abrasive wheel mounted on a drill to go through problem areas.

The body has small holes

If the corrosion is deep, and even small holes have appeared, then proceed in the following way:

Using a cone brush (a stiffer one is recommended) placed on a drill, rust is removed from the car body

Attention: The use of abrasive wheels and a grinder is not allowed - you will simply burn the metal, after such cleaning it will rot very quickly.

After cleaning, you can confidently assess how deep the corrosion has penetrated. The cleaned area is blown with air from the compressor, then you need to place a spotlight or flashlight behind the part;
If the housing part is non-removable, then you should try to plug in a light source from behind;
In places where holes have appeared, luminous points will be visible when the external lighting is extinguished;

Instructions on how to stop car body corrosion are as follows:

The simplest way is to solder the holes with ordinary tin solder;
To do this, you need a hammer soldering iron, soldering acid (rosin is not suitable here), POS-61 brand solder, a hair dryer may also be useful to warm up the repair area when the power of the soldering iron is not enough;
Buy a rust converter, you can’t do without it.

Attention: Before you start working with a new soldering iron, you should tin the tip (its working surface).

Hammer soldering iron

Before starting work, the repair area, which has through corrosion, should be cleaned of rust residues;
Because solder will not stick to a rusty surface;
The most important thing is not to be lazy, when you are too lazy to tinker, then go back to the beginning, where it is recommended to purchase a new part;
To remove the remaining rye you will need a pointed needle file, or a piece of hacksaw blade, or a knife with a sharp blade and abrasive sandpaper;
Use coarse sandpaper (grain P60-80) to pass through the rust spot (if not brushed), this removes the surface layer;
Then you should pick out any rust that has already set in from the metal;
To make the places clearly visible, you need to apply a rust converter with a brush and wait a couple of minutes;
The rust will darken and become clearly visible on clean metal;
at this stage you will need pointed objects to pick out rotten metal;
The process is the most tedious and time-consuming;
You should constantly apply rust converter to these areas with a brush;
This way you wash away the rust you've already picked off and see where you need to put in extra effort;
After the place has been cleaned, you can begin servicing it;

Attention: When the diameter of the through holes exceeds 2-3 millimeters, it will no longer be possible to fill them with solder; this method is suitable when through corrosion forms in the form of a fine mesh.

Apply soldering acid to the surface before it dries, you need to apply tin solder with a heated soldering iron over the entire cleaned surface, where there are already and may appear holes from corrosion
For better tin solder adhesion, constantly lubricate the evaporating acid
When the metal of the case is thick and the power of the hammer soldering iron is not enough to heat the tin, then use an industrial hair dryer or a second soldering iron

Advice: Soldering must be done in the open air or in a ventilated room (or in a room with forced exhaust), since the evaporated acid is very harmful to the respiratory tract, and its smell is not pleasant.

Repairing corrosion damage to the body cannot be done carelessly; the price of careless work is that the body will rust again and very quickly;
After completing the work, check again with a light to see if there are still any through holes;
After the repair area has been tinned and the corrosion areas have been soldered, the treated surfaces should be cleaned of any acid and converter that may remain;
As a rule, they are washed with water or a mixture of gasoline and alcohol;
In order to increase the service life of a repaired body part, it is important to properly protect it from contact with the atmosphere;
Apply acid primer to the tinned area of this body part using a paint sprayer, then acrylic primer on top of it, only after that can the surface be puttied;

Important: Putty cannot be placed on top of acidic primer, so acrylic primer is used.

If suddenly, when sanding the putty, you get rubbed down to the metal, there’s nothing to worry about, just blow it with acid primer again and cover the exposed areas with acrylic;
When completing the restoration of a rusty car body, you should definitely protect the back side of that repair area;
The condition is mandatory! Otherwise, all the work done will go down the drain;
There are many ways to protect against corrosion, the main thing is to block the access of moisture and air to the protected area;
The first option is to prime the back side with acid and acrylic primers;
The second option is to apply a layer of good sealant, mastic, or fill it with Movil;
The choice of option will depend on the ease of access to the surface being treated;
If you can’t get to it with a sprayer, try applying the primer with a brush, and then cover it with Movil, to be safe, or a similar product;
Now it is clear to you how to restore a car body from rust with small holes;

Applying patches

When a hole has already formed in the body, putty or soldering is not enough:

The easiest way here would be to make and install a patch;
Of course, this method is suitable for holes with a diameter of no more than 5-7 centimeters; when the hole is larger, replacement of the body element or welding work is definitely necessary;
How to get rid of rust on a car body if holes have already appeared?;
First, the damaged area should be thoroughly washed, then cleaned and free of rust using the method described above;
After this, a patch is cut out with dimensions slightly larger than the hole, from thin metal, a tin can will do;

Patch made of thin tin

Now you need the same hammer soldering iron, with its help you will have to tin the surfaces on the outside of the hole and the edge of the finished patch with tin;
Soldering acid or its analogue is used as a flux;
At the end, the patch will need to be soldered with a continuous seam, then the patch will need to be hammered down;
Clean the protruding edges with coarse sandpaper;
After this, cover the defective area with putty, prime and paint;
Body repairs after rust can be done by welding;

The patch is welded to the body using carbon dioxide welding, but for this you will need a welding machine (or a welder with a machine), plus welding skills;
Further processing as with the previous patch, stripping, primer, putty, sanding the putty and painting;
Don't forget about processing the reverse side.

We wish you success in your body work!

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Report on the restoration of a rotting body

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Report on the restoration of a rotting body

I want to talk about what corrosion of body metal can lead to and how to deal with it when it is too late to prevent it with chemicals and protective coatings.
In principle, any car is susceptible to corrosion, but for some reason, Japanese Toyotas rot noticeably slower than cars from other manufacturers. Mazda is no exception, and maybe even in the forefront with Nissan, whose bodies quickly begin to rust. There are many factors here, but the main one, in my opinion, is insufficient anti-corrosion treatment of the metal and a thin layer of technological paint and varnish. Saving on this (reducing production costs) and the concept of producing machines for a certain service life (usually calculated for five years) are the roots of the problem.

So, I own a Mazda Familia 1995 1.6L BHA6R body.
I have owned it since February 2009. In the Russian Federation for 8 years, I am the fourth owner.

In the spring, the cabin began to smell disgustingly of rotten earth and rotten potatoes. Cleaning, washing and drying the interior did not give any results. It was decided to dismantle the entire interior to find the source of the stench.

To do this, the seats were unscrewed and removed (the smell clearly did not come from them), and the carpet was removed. Underneath were sheets of soft felt insulation. The carpet and insulation were washed with washing powder and dried. The seats were aired outside for several days and roasted in the sun.

Well, the interior has been dismantled, but the smell remains.
The next step is to peel off the factory bitumen sheets glued to the sheet metal of the floor. This turned out to be easy to do, since the sheets had peeled off in many places due to age.

What we see: along the empty beam, the floor metal has rusted and turned to dust. One press with a screwdriver is enough to create a hole. Upon closer examination, the rusty rot turned out to be saturated with moisture, like a wet sponge. It was from her that this disgusting smell came.

Miniatures

How to quickly and permanently remove rust from a car body

The appearance of rust on a car body is an unpleasant occurrence for every car owner. In this article we will tell you how to quickly and easily remove rust stains from a car body using available means. All methods are simple and effective, you can easily do them yourself.

Corrosion formation

Metal corrosion , or simply rust, appears as a result of metal oxidation under the influence of the environment. The main reason for its appearance is damage to the paint on the car body.

All resulting scratches and chips sooner or later become a source of rust formation, which gradually spreads deeper into the stain and over the entire larger surface area of the body.

The rate at which corrosion spreads depends on the aggressiveness of the environment and the condition of the body itself. For example, in the winter season it spreads many times faster.

It is much easier to deal with a single rust stain that has just appeared than with multiple “saffron caps” or an old stain where the metal is corroded almost completely.

The appearance of corrosion that is not yet visible to the eye is indicated by swelling of the paintwork. Such areas should be immediately cleared of old paint and cleaned.

Vulnerable places

The areas that experience the greatest mechanical stress are the most susceptible to corrosion. These include:

thresholds are among the first to suffer from corrosion;
hood - small pebbles from the vehicle in front provoke the appearance of numerous chips;
wheel arches are constantly exposed to aggressive chemicals.

It is important to promptly detect emerging rust and eliminate it, preventing the further spread of corrosion. To do this, you need to know how you can deal with this unpleasant phenomenon yourself.

Corrosion Removal Methods

Corrosion can be eliminated in the following ways:

Mechanical - used for severe corrosion, it involves removing rust by stripping down to metal, followed by priming, puttying and painting the area of the body being repaired;

Advantages of the method : elimination of large and deep stains, damage under swelling paint, as well as low cost and availability of necessary materials.

Disadvantages : length of the process.

Chemical - involves using rust removers. Such reagents are widely represented on the modern market.

Advantages of the method: elimination of corrosion in hard-to-reach places, higher process speed.

Disadvantages: inability to use on heavily damaged areas.

Let's consider the process of eliminating corrosion using each of the methods presented above in more detail.

Step-by-step instruction

Before starting repair work, it is necessary to inspect the body and identify all problem areas. Assess the degree of damage and decide on a method to eliminate corrosion.

Tools and materials

Before starting work you need to prepare:

grinder;
sandpaper;
degreaser;
putty;
primer;
paint;
car varnish;
rust converter;
masking tape;
clean cloth.

Mechanical method

Removing rust stains mechanically is carried out in several stages:

cleaning corrosion down to metal with sandpaper. The work can be done manually or using a power tool, such as a grinder. The stain should be cleaned gradually and carefully, avoiding rough scratches. It is important not to damage entire areas of the paintwork and to carry out 100% complete stripping down to “bare” metal.

treating the prepared area of the body with a rust converter in order to eliminate the smallest corrosion residues that are not always visible to the eye.

degreasing the surface after the converter ends (on average after half an hour);
putty (carried out in several layers if necessary) and grinding of the treated surface;
painting in body color (before painting, protect adjacent parts of the body with newspapers and masking tape and apply an anti-corrosion primer in 2-3 layers). Painting is also carried out in 2-3 layers, each thoroughly drying.
application of clear varnish (if desired) for more reliable protection and a beautiful appearance.

The result of the work will depend entirely on compliance with all instructions and the correct execution of the work. If the technology is violated, for example, due to poor-quality cleaning or insufficient drying, the result of the work may be completely short-lived.

Watch a video on how to remove rust from a car in 10 minutes:

Chemical method

The significant difference between this method and the previous one lies only in the first stage - cleaning from rusty stains. Instead of mechanical cleaning, specialized chemicals are used. It can remove rust and prevent its further spread without damaging the metal.

As a rule, such preparations are applied to the problem area in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions for the specified time, after which the remaining product is wiped off or washed off.

However, to obtain an excellent and long-lasting result, you will also have to putty, sand and paint. When eliminating minor damage to the body, you can do without these steps.

Popular drugs

The most popular chemicals for removing rust from a car body with your own hands are:

orthophosphoric acid is the most well-known remedy; it can be used in its pure form or be part of various chemistry;
VSN-1 Neutralizer - easily copes with rust, turning it into a dark mass;
zinc - a kit for removing rust and further galvanizing the metal by applying a special protective layer using an electrochemical method. Requires connection to battery. The process of working with the Zinkor product can be seen in detail in the video clip:

Body corrosion repair in Moscow

Address: Moscow, VDNKh metro station, Mira Avenue, building 186-a building 1, PROMIKS technical center

Tel. fax: (495) 741-58-79

Tel (495) 683-56-19

Body corrosion repair is carried out in several stages - usually four. But if we are talking about repairing severe through corrosion of the body, then another preliminary stage is possible - tin and welding work.

So, at the first stage, parts exposed to corrosion are cleaned to bare metal. In this case, different means are used, depending on the nature of the corrosion.

On flat elements, the easiest way to get rid of it is with the help of mechanical (usually brushes, abrasive wheels, sandpaper) or chemical means (reagents that react with oxides). Both methods are quite effective and have both pros and cons.

Mechanical cleaning is a rather dusty and labor-intensive process, as it requires the direct application of the efforts of the master over the entire period of time. But this process can be called final, since after it you can immediately proceed to the next stage, unlike chemical compositions.

After the chemicals have eaten away most of the rust, it is necessary to remove the remaining rust using mechanical means. Chemical reagents can also have a plus - processing speed.

In hard-to-reach places or on multifaceted surfaces, it is more advisable to use sandblasting, as this saves a lot of time and money, and also significantly improves quality.

The second stage when repairing corrosion of a car body is leveling the planes (filling the formed pores and craters). In this case, putty is used, which is subsequently processed to a smooth plane using sandpaper.

The third stage is priming the leveled part. The primer serves for better adhesion of the paint and the base on which it is applied. This increases the life of the paintwork. Otherwise, if the surface is not primed, new areas of corrosion will soon appear or the paint will begin to peel off.

The fourth stage is the application of the final paint coating, which is the outer layer exposed to various types of influences. Depending on the type of coating, it is applied in one or several layers.

The cost of eliminating corrosion and related work must be clarified in each individual case.

Operation “Stop Rust”: ridding the car body of saffron milk caps and traces of rust on your own

A red scourge called rust plagues many car enthusiasts. The less protected the car body is from corrosion at the factory (galvanization), the more often the owners will have to make efforts to eliminate red spots. Moreover, it is undesirable to delay liquidation, since over time, damage to the metal only increases. As a result, in six months you will have to spend much more time and money than today. So, what will you need to remove rust and saffron milk caps with your own hands and how to remove them without harming the body.

Causes and places of rust on a car body

Rust is the oxidation of metal that occurs under the influence of air, water and static electricity. Therefore, the main reason for its occurrence is damage to the paintwork of the car body. Microcracks and physical damage allow air and moisture to reach the iron. The speed of the destructive impact will depend on the degree of protection of the body itself and the aggressiveness of the environment. This is especially true in winter, when many chemicals appear on our roads.

The above factors directly affect the shape, color and depth of corrosion. People call them differently: “saffron milk caps,” “bugs,” or simply “rusty spots,” but their essence is the same (only the degree of neglect varies). A single spot of rust is easier to deal with than many small red spots. The latter usually indicates poor quality metal or unsuccessful body repairs. The total processing area will be larger. Moreover, these points often spread in depth rather than in breadth. Blistering of the paint also signals the need to remove corrosion that has begun to develop under the paintwork.

The most common places for bugs and rust spots (photo)

Rust progresses well in places where there is increased exposure to foreign objects: sand, dirt, stones. The hood suffers from small stones from the tires of other cars, the wheel arches from their own “emissions” (by the way, wide non-standard tires or rims contribute to greater damage). The thresholds of the car are also one of the first to rot due to the close proximity to the “aggressive environment”, plus unsuccessful exits from curbs aggravate the situation.

How to delete: options

We have become acquainted with the causes and places, let's move on to methods of correct elimination. There are two methods that differ in the way they remove rust:

Mechanical - cleaning, priming, puttying, painting.
Chemical - rust converters or kits for galvanizing metal.

You cannot do without the first method if the rust is strongly ingrained into the metal.
Then it is necessary to completely eliminate traces of corrosion until pure iron (ideally shiny) remains. To do this, you may need additional tools and resources, which we will discuss below in step-by-step instructions. The second option is suitable for hard-to-reach places.
These could be curves on the bottom of the car or the inside of the arches, which are difficult to process using mechanical means. Depending on the product, rust after chemical treatment can turn into foam (you need to rinse with water and dry the surface) or harden and become covered with a protective layer suitable for painting. Be sure to read the instructions and recommendations for the use of chemicals before purchasing. Before starting work, try to assess the extent of damage to the body and assess whether you can etch the damage with chemicals alone. For a positive result, it is necessary that “live” iron remains after the initial cleaning. If there are through holes or the final thickness of the metal after processing is too small, then more serious body repairs will be needed, that is, initially all these areas will need to be repaired using welding or putty with fiberglass.

Reviews of the most popular tools and methods

The ideal option is orthophosphoric acid. Apply a thin layer to the camelina, wait 10–30 seconds, wipe dry with a cotton pad. It eats up rust and forms a phosphate film that is not afraid of water and is inert.

Maxim Leonov

http://avto-flot.ru/blog/kak-udalit-rjavchinu-s-kuzova-avtomobilya-i-ostanovit-ee-rasprostranenie.html

I already tried orthophosphorus - this is still an old-fashioned method, I processed what I cleaned. (As far as I know, all these inhibitors and converters are what it is, only in multi-colored bottles). Indeed, almost cleaned surfaces, this rubbish gets rid of rust residues. But untouched, so to speak, terry thickets of corrosion do not particularly react to it. So, they sizzle a little, darken, turn pale and remain in place.

Saf

http://forums.drom.ru/4×4/t1151267034.html

Nowadays, people no longer burn at the stake for the magic of transforming rust into pure and white metal, but a miraculous transformation does not happen either. And the zealous body workers continue to sand, etch, putty, treat with filler... And that’s why - because you can’t pull it out without difficulty... It’s impossible, you know, to rub it with a cloth and for it to become overgrown - it doesn’t happen. So go ahead, Shura, go ahead...

Zaika 2106

https://forum.auto.ru/chemistry/22048/

Mechanical method (step by step instructions)

If you follow the instructions and take your time, you can forget about rust on your car for 1-2 years (at least in the treated areas). The work is carried out in stages:

preparing everything necessary;
initial cleaning of the damaged part of the body;
degreasing and priming;
painting and varnishing.

DIY Tools and Supplies

To work you will need:

grinding tool and sandpaper,
rust converter,
solvent,
anti-corrosion primer,
paint to match the body color and clear varnish (in cans),
if necessary, two-component automotive putty (with hardener).

You can fight rust using a sandblaster, an angle grinder with a grinding wheel, a drill with a special attachment, or the trivial, but always accessible, method - with your hands and sandpaper.

The work can be done manually or using special machines

The main thing is to work carefully and slowly. There should be no deep scratches or rough transitions. Try to get a polished surface with smooth gradients.

A grinder is often included in a car enthusiast’s arsenal.

The damaged paintwork is removed layer by layer and subsequent damaged areas are processed.

The longevity of the result depends on the thoroughness of the work.

Universal types of putty, oddly enough, are not suitable for all types of car bodies

It is applied in several layers and each one is sanded until smooth. Your goal is to fill all the depressions and achieve a perfectly smooth surface when the work is completed.

To work, you will need several types of sandpaper.

Do not skimp on protective equipment, especially if you are doing the job for the first time.

Film, newspapers and masking tape are perfect for this. If you work outside, be sure to consider the direction of the wind.

Make sure that dust and other abrasive particles do not fall on the treated surface.

Painting work requires minimal skills!

The result is not always the same as in the photo; it is often necessary to modify and eliminate flaws

A good way to remove and repair rust on a car door (video)

Do-it-yourself chemical way to get rid of corrosion

The chemical method differs only in the initial stage - cleaning the part from rust. According to reviews from manufacturers, these substances are able to eradicate rust, stop its further spread and do not damage the iron itself (unlike “sandpaper”). Application is very simple - apply the product to the rusty surface for 30-40 minutes, then wipe with a cloth or rinse with water. But to get a nice, smooth surface you will still have to clean, putty and polish (except for the initial stages of corrosion).

Some funds are available to motorists even with the most modest budget

There are kits on sale that allow you to independently apply a protective layer of zinc to the car body. The kit already contains a solution for removing rust and applying a protective layer, as well as an electrode with a zinc tip. This process is electrochemical, so a connection to a battery is required.

The kit includes liquids and all necessary working tools

How to remove “saffron milk caps” and “bugs”

Many people want to believe that if rust has just appeared and the lesions are small, then they can be eliminated with some miracle remedy. Unfortunately, this is impossible in principle. The rust that appears on the surface of the paintwork is like the tip of an iceberg; the main damage is deep inside.

There are products on sale that will help remove the red color from the body. For example, there is Anti-Rust paste - it removes red spots quite quickly and well. This is the same rust converter that we discussed above. It eliminates the visible signs, but not the source itself. Such manipulations usually last for 2–6 weeks (depending on weather conditions), and they are most often used immediately before selling the car.

Small “bugs” sometimes cause big problems for the car seller!

If you want to get rid of the problem in the long term, then you cannot do without physical intervention. It is necessary to stop the access of air and moisture directly to the metal. Theoretically, you can prolong the effect of the paste if, after treatment, you cover the damaged area of the body with clear varnish. But it will work if the converter has managed to remove all the rust. In most cases, this does not happen, since the depth of penetration of the product is small.

Unfortunately, it will not be possible to hide damage for a long time only with the help of paste.

Vehicle prevention and protection

Tools available to every motorist, but which most of them ignore, will help you avoid the work done:
- regular car washing, even in winter (additional waxing increases protection against aggressive environments);
- regular inspection of a clean car (in the initial stages it is much easier to fix the problem);
- wheel arch liners and mudguards on all wheels (will keep the paintwork presentable for much longer);
- anti-gravel film on the hood and part of the roof above the windshield (an alternative is a “fly swatter”);
- anti-corrosion treatment of the bottom of the car.
The work of eliminating “bugs” and “saffron milk caps” is within the power of everyone. But for a good result it will take scrupulousness and time (especially the first time). Think about whether you are able to prevent such sources of trouble. Advanced corrosion leads to expensive body repairs without guarantees. Take care of your car, and it will reciprocate.

Read more: Is mirror tinting of rear windows prohibited?