How to treat a car body for the winter

How to protect your car in winter

Tips and recommendations for protecting your car in winter: washing, anti-corrosion treatment, tires, antifreeze, glass cleaning, etc. Photos and videos.

The content of the article:

What to protect in your car in winter
Anti-corrosion treatment
Road grip
Windshield wipers and antifreeze
Washing
Video

In terms of complexity, experts equate just one month of driving a car in winter to a whole year of traveling in summer. Find out how to prepare for the cold season and protect your transport from harsh conditions in our review.

What to protect in your car in winter

In winter, the car body requires increased attention and protection, so the owner needs to take care of its treatment in a timely manner and understand the means that can be used to coat it to prevent rust.

But not only the body and other metal elements are exposed to an aggressive environment at low temperatures - they also require protection and care:

Car windows, which can freeze and by the end of winter become covered with a web of small scratches;
Paintwork that becomes especially brittle at subzero temperatures and is therefore susceptible to microcracks and chips;
Wheel arches that are actively destroyed by stones, salt, and road reagents falling into them, working in a negative tandem with constant moisture from snow and ice;
Rubber seals and plastic also suffer from constant frost and moisture.

What measures should be taken to protect your vehicle from all aggressive winter factors?

Anti-corrosion treatment

Winter slush, salt, sand, and chemicals used to treat roads adhere in layers to the car body, creating a favorable environment for the spread of corrosion.

Factory anti-corrosion treatment, even the most expensive and high-quality one, quickly gives way under the influence of such aggressive environments, which are many times more dangerous and dense than ordinary summer dust and dirt.

Therefore, on the eve of winter, the owner should independently take care of additional body protection, thereby protecting the car not only from dirt and reagents, but also from temperature changes.

First of all, it is necessary to inspect the body for chips and scratches and remove them in a timely manner, without giving corrosion a chance to spread. Among the most popular body treatments are the following:

Anticorrosive

Bitumen mixtures are more of a preventative agent that protects the body and gives a good appearance, but is not able to fight existing rust. Containing resins, such mastic is applied to the bottom and wheel arches, thereby prolonging the life of the body.

Polishes - since the paintwork is primarily exposed to the environment, its integrity, beauty and shine are preserved for as long as possible with the help of polishes. It will create an invisible protective film on the surface of the paintwork, which will protect against chipping and the action of reagents.

Wax is another wax-based preventative that is both affordable and effective for polishing and protecting needs. To process the body with it, you will not need any physical effort or special skills; the result will pleasantly please the motorist, although it will not last too long. By regularly updating the wax coating, the owner will be able to significantly facilitate the operation of the car in winter.

Anti-gravel film - its main task is to protect against gravel or sand flying out from under the wheels, leading to scratches and chips. This is a transparent protective film that is barely visible on the body, but at the same time absorbs all impacts that can spoil the appearance of the metal.

It is recommended to apply any of the above products at a temperature of at least 18 degrees, having previously washed the car from dirt for better application to the surface of the body.

Road grip

Changing summer tires to winter ones, carried out when the temperature drops to +5 degrees, is the most important safety measure for both the motorist and other road users.

With the onset of cold weather, harder summer tires quickly lose traction, which leads to loss of controllability and maneuverability. That is why experts recommend changing shoes in advance, without waiting for frost and risking the creation of an emergency situation.

Before replacing tires, you need to check them for cracks, wear, and remaining studs to make sure they are ready for the season. Tests have shown that the safe minimum for winter tire treads is 4 mm - only with such indicators will they provide the necessary grip on icy or snowy roads.

When assessing tire wear, you should pay attention to its uniformity. Thus, if the shoulder area wears out due to insufficient pressure, the driver will face reduced lateral grip and risk when cornering.

But wear in the central part indicates excess pressure, for which the driver will pay with poor braking dynamics, poor acceleration and loss of controllability.

Windshield wipers and antifreeze

Another important factor in protecting a car in winter is checking the performance of the windshield wipers, as well as timely filling of the windshield washers with high-quality antifreeze.

If in the summer the driver can do without properly working wipers, then during frosts and snowfalls having a good view is vital.

Similar to tires, rubber on windshield wipers is divided into winter and summer. The difference is that the winter version does not harden, freeze, or lose mobility at any low temperature.

Before the first cold weather, it is necessary to check the functionality of the windshield washer system, in which the water must be promptly replaced with special chemicals. The so-called “anti-freeze” contains a concentrate of ethyl or isopropyl alcohol and is intended for washing glass at extremely low temperatures.

Since antifreeze not only cleans glass, but also prevents cracking of the plastic tank, the driver is advised to carefully select the product depending on the climatic conditions of the region in which the car is used.

Many car owners consider it unnecessary to wash their car in winter, but hygiene procedures remain the main way to prevent premature aging of the car body. Adhered dirt and reagent residues penetrate into the smallest cracks and scratches, accelerating the spread of corrosion.

However, if in summer all deposits can be removed from the surface of the car using any available method, then in winter certain subtleties should be observed:

do not use hot water, as the temperature difference between water and the environment can cause cracks;
During the washing process, special attention must be paid to the wheel arch liners;
Before starting washing, it is recommended to inquire about the products used due to the difference in the nature of winter and summer pollution. If in summer it is necessary to remove insects, dust, and tree buds, then in winter the car shampoo must be able to cope with salts and road chemicals that are more dense in texture;
After washing and before going outside, the body must be wiped dry;
Door locks and rubber seals can be treated with silicone grease yourself, since opening the doors may be difficult due to moisture getting inside.

The recommended period for visiting a car wash in winter is during thaw days, as well as after heavy snowfalls, when the car body is most actively exposed to salt and road treatment agents.

Conclusion

Many car owners are sure that preparing for winter consists of key actions:

replacing summer tires with winter ones;
checking and charging the battery;
filling the windshield wiper with antifreeze liquid.

Protecting a car in winter is a rather labor-intensive process, but necessary and doable with minimal cost.

Video about car protection in winter:

What and how should the car body be treated in winter.

The winter period is a real test not only of the driver’s skills, but also a serious test of the reliability of the car itself. In order for the “iron horse” not to let you down and to work one hundred percent in winter, it is necessary to timely prepare it for severe frost, strong winds and sudden temperature changes.

Due to the failure to treat certain parts of the car, “wintering” can cause problems in the form of chips and dents, peeling of the coating, worn glass, headlights and many other negative phenomena. Pre-winter treatment will keep the car parts intact, and the family budget from unforeseen repair costs.

Preparing your car for winter

Technical preparation of a car consists of several stages:

Antifreeze. Before the cold weather, you need to check the condition of the coolant, you should understand whether it meets the requirements and whether the property has been lost. Typically, the substance changes approximately once every three years, however, there are cases of purchasing a “left-handed” liquid, which loses its qualities much faster. The coolant must be a certain color: red, yellow or green. The structure should be uniform and transparent. Today blue antifreeze is almost never used. If the antifreeze becomes cloudy or contains lumps, it should be replaced. There is an even easier way to recognize suitability: if the liquid has a soapy consistency to the touch, then it is ok.
Brake fluid. If you do not check it often as required by the rules, at one point in the winter, it may freeze and give you a surprise on the road. Brake hoses can rupture while driving, make sure that the brake fluid is also in order.
Battery. Before the cold weather sets in, check the water level and electrolyte density. This is in those cases. If you use your car every day. In case of rare trips out of the garage, it is best to remove the device and store it in a heated room.

Body protective coatings

There are several options for pre-winter preparation. To protect your car, its body and paintwork, you should focus on the life of the car. A new car can be treated with anti-hologram polishing. This is necessary for stronger and more effective protection against dirt, preservatives and substances that litter the roads getting on the body.

If your car is not new, you can protect it from winter cold and from the ingress of various reagents by using abrasive polishing and then treating it with a protective layer.

In order to determine how vulnerable the body coating is, you should contact specialists who, by measuring the thickness of the coating and visual diagnostics, will help find flaws and eliminate them. Before polishing, if necessary, you must wash the car using a two-stage wash, after which the owner of the vehicle decides which coating to use to protect the body.

Among the world brands, the following manufacturers stand out for the quality of their compositions:

The use of these compounds returns the body's shine and reliably protects it from water, dirt, and corrosion stains.

Scratches on the body are treated with a wax pencil, which you can easily buy at any auto store. The bottom needs a careful inspection, our roads are not of the same quality, so the anti-corrosion protection of the newest car immediately wears off in the winter. If you find any abrasions, immediately treat the bottom of the car with an anti-corrosion agent. You can do this yourself or in a salon.

Wheel arches are subject to the greatest damage from various chemical and mechanical factors, in particular from reagents, sand, crumbs, small stones flying from under the wheels. The best way to protect mechanisms and arches is a proven remedy - fender liners. If they fit the shape and match the quality, you won’t find a more reliable product. In the places where they are attached to the body, use mastic or another similar product.

Your mobile first aid kit

During the winter period, anything can happen on the road, and it is not a fact that an unforeseen event will occur within the city. In case of a forced stop, towing, heating, the driver must have a mobile emergency first aid kit, consisting of important and necessary things:

a high-voltage cable, which may be required to “reanimate” the car if the battery does not work;
LED flashlight;
a set of tools for minor repairs;
An emergency stop sign is required;
compressor pumping up tires;
spatula and various brushes and scrapers;
It’s good to have heated seats in the car, which can save you if an unexpected stop occurs in severe frost;
cable so that the car can be towed;
silicone grease, especially important when the gas tank hatch or doors freeze;
warm gloves and pieces of cardboard that can help out when slipping.
In order to contact technical assistance or family, you must have a phone charger.

Important! This whole kit is not that expensive, but it can help you out in extreme situations in winter conditions on the road during an emergency stop.

Should you wash your car in winter?

Winter car washing is a rather controversial issue. Of course, it is worth keeping the body clean, since the mud mixture harms your car much more than in the summer. It is believed that the washing frequency should be at least once every 14 days in winter. Wheel arches and sills are washed especially carefully, since the first ones receive a mud mixture of reagents and dirt.

Note! There are some restrictions and recommendations. Car manufacturers believe that it is not worth giving cars a bath in winter if the temperature outside is below -5 degrees.

This is because the car's paintwork may be damaged. Don’t wash if it’s frosty outside; corrosion will freeze anyway, as it’s afraid of low temperatures.

Winter car care

The ideal option would be to park the car in a warm garage, but not everyone has this opportunity. There are underground parking lots at supermarkets or other public centers; it is best to leave your car there. Provided the vehicle is constantly on the street, there are several practical tips for caring for it in winter.

Do not scrub the windshield with a scraper until it thaws, this will lead to damage and microcracks. To speed up the thawing process, there are special sprays.
Raise your wipers when there is heavy snowfall or wet precipitation outside, or when the temperature changes to frost, they may freeze to the glass. Their thawing should occur naturally.
Disable the automatic folding of the side mirrors. In severe frost, they may freeze one day and not return to their normal position.
Treat door handles, all locks, and door seals with silicone-containing spray. It is sold to households. and auto stores and costs pennies. This will save mechanisms and parts from freezing. This procedure is especially important after washing the car.
It is recommended to renew the protective coating once a year before the onset of winter. This will ensure that negative damage is avoided. If the treatment is carried out with high quality and good materials, for a long period your car will be under reliable protection from winter hardships, and its operation will not bring you any problems.

Remember, the cleaner your car is in winter, the greater the likelihood of its long service life and decent appearance. Take care of your car, regardless of the time of year and weather conditions, then it will give you its maximum comfort, attractiveness and speed capabilities.

Three things you need to do before winter to save your car from rust

Soon we will feel the cold breath of winter. Cars will also feel it, especially their bodies and paintwork.

Drivers often forget about the full range of necessary measures before the winter season and limit themselves only to well-known actions. They change tires according to the season, fill in anti-freeze washer fluid and inspect the windshield wipers and replace them as necessary. The least lazy ones recharge their batteries. This is usually where everything is limited - some do not have enough time and opportunities for the “advanced package”, others simply do not bother themselves. But temperature fluctuations, precipitation and an abundance of reagents on the roads require careful protection of the body. So here's what we recommend you do.

1. Inspect the body and its damage

Russian winters, coupled with road chemicals, work wonders on bodies - they easily and naturally destroy iron and cause chrome to fade. If the paintwork has damage, chips and scratches, including deep ones, then with a high degree of probability these places will “bloom”. Audits and protective measures should be taken care of in advance.

Shutterstock/VOSTOCK Photo

Check where the car needs to be touched up and where more serious work needs to be done. There are two options here - contact a specialized service for local repairs or do everything yourself. Just remember that by cleaning off the rust and filling the area with paint, you will not stop the destructive process. After some time, this place will swell and everything will have to be repeated again, but using a rust converter and soil.

2. Apply a protective layer

At subzero temperatures, paintwork becomes more fragile. Of course, everything depends on the quality of the factory paint, but in winter the coating is more vulnerable. Pebbles and sand, which would hardly harm paint and varnish in summer, leave chips in cold weather. The simplest thing that can be done is to treat the body with wax or hot wax, which is effective due to penetration into the pores of the paintwork. It should be applied regularly, since this layer lasts for about several washes. You can also use polishes that create a protective layer on the surface.

Shutterstock/VOSTOCK Photo

If you plan to use the car for a long time and year-round, then it is useful to take care of anti-corrosion treatment of the bottom and wheel arches. Of course, it is possible to carry out such a procedure on your own, but the process requires understanding, care and time. The bottom must be washed, and the car must be on a lift or pit. It is better to entrust such an important matter to professionals.

3. Regular washing

This is the simplest thing you can do to preserve your paintwork and bodywork. Of course, it is not advisable to get carried away and frequent with water procedures, but it is important to maintain regularity - after all, this is hygiene. Some drivers in winter do not go to the car wash at all or do it extremely rarely, citing the argument that after a kilometer the car will be completely dirty again. But washing is necessary - this way you remove reagents, salt and moisture from the body, which provoke corrosion and contribute to clouding of the paintwork.

Shutterstock/VOSTOCK Photo

There are recommendations to organize bath days during thaws and heavy snowfalls - at this time there are so many reagents on the roads that the wipers cannot cope, and the car becomes covered with a layer of slippery “chemicals”. The recommendations directly related to the process are simple. It is not advisable to use hot water, since temperature changes can damage the paintwork. Wash your fender liners thoroughly, as everything that can possibly settle in them usually settles. The frozen snow-reagent-ice mass holds tightly and falls off in huge pieces. After washing, be sure to wipe the car dry and do not forget to lubricate the rubber seals with silicone grease.

Preparing your car for winter: what needs to be done first

Paint protection

Perhaps it’s worth starting with the preparation and protection of one of the most important parts of the car - the paintwork of the body. In winter, large amounts of de-icing chemicals are applied to roads, which have a detrimental effect on paintwork. Contacts with road gravel, sand and ice have a negative impact on the safety of both the appearance of the car and the body itself. The car's paintwork begins to fade, becomes covered with a chemical coating, and a large number of chips and scratches form. But the worst thing is that pockets of corrosion appear on the body.

To protect the paintwork from chemicals and loss of appearance, there are special protective compounds. They are usually applied in a thin layer over the entire surface of the car and prevent contact of the paintwork with the environment. These products differ both in the complexity of application to the car body and in the duration of action. The simplest method of application is protective wax, but it also has the shortest service life. Any car enthusiast can apply wax without special training after washing the car in a warm and clean room. But you need to remember that the service life of protective wax is from one to several washes , and the application procedure will need to be repeated.

The second type of product is “ceramic” protective coatings containing silicon compounds, which allows these products to provide a very high degree of body protection. These compounds will last much longer than protective waxes. Their service life can range from several months to six months . But these compounds must be applied by a specially trained technician in a room equipped for these purposes.

Body protection

The most common damage to paintwork in the winter is mechanical. They can occur during the process of cleaning the car body from snow and ice and from a large amount of gravel and sand on the roads, which flies out from under the wheels of cars.

The front elements of the car are most susceptible to such defects - the bumper, hood, fenders, as well as parts near the door handles, A-pillars and B-pillars. To prevent the formation of mechanical damage to paintwork, there is a special polyurethane anti-gravel film . It prevents contact of the paintwork with the brush while cleaning the body from snow and ice, and also saves from the formation of paint chips while driving on the road from flying crushed stone and sand, taking the entire impact on itself.

The installation of anti-gravel films is carried out by trained craftsmen, since this product requires special work skills and without special training and tools it will be difficult to perform the job efficiently.

Also, do not forget about the lighting elements of the car, since safety on the road directly depends on the cleanliness and transparency of the headlights, especially in winter, when darkness comes early enough.

Headlight protection

In order for the car's headlight lighting to remain as good as new, it is necessary to monitor the external condition of the headlights. If cloudiness forms on the headlight, it loses transparency and, as a result, illumination deteriorates while driving. To restore the transparency of the optics and give it its original appearance, its body can be polished. Modern headlights are made of polycarbonate, which is highly polished and has the ability to restore its transparency. For this, abrasive polishing pastes , usually the same as for polishing paintwork, together with foam polishing wheels. This operation can be performed independently, but you will need a special tool - a polishing machine with adjustable speed. Recommended speed for this operation is up to 2000 rpm.

Once the headlights have been polished and restored, they can also be protected with polyurethane anti-gravel film. This will preserve their appearance as much as possible, as well as prevent repeated wear and tear when cleaning the headlights from snow and ice.

Glass protection

Another element that affects the safe operation of a car is the windshield. As with headlights, in conditions of short daylight hours in winter, ensuring their cleanliness and transparency is the most important task for the motorist. To solve this, as well as to reduce icing and simplify cleaning, it is recommended to treat the front hemisphere (windshield and front side windows) with a special “anti-rain” . It creates a hydrophobic film on the surface, which makes it much easier to clean the glass while driving, and also reduces the time required to clean it after icing.

Trim protection

After the car body is protected, it is worth thinking about protecting the leather and textile interior of the car. In winter, outerwear and shoes often get wet and collect a large amount of snow, which is carried into the car and begins to melt in its interior, absorbing into the seats and mats. Over time, stains and stains form on textile upholstery, and the leather dries and cracks due to constant contact with moisture. All this may result in the need to dry clean the interior and repair the leather. To prevent and minimize such situations, it is recommended to treat the leather interior with leather conditioner - a water-repellent cream composition that allows you to moisturize the leather and protect it from drying out, and treat textiles with hydrophobic compounds that prevent large amounts of water from being absorbed into the fabric.

Let your car bring you only positive emotions! Safe winter roads and bright impressions!

Text: Mikhail Ovchinnikov, senior technical expert of the department of materials for auto repair at 3M Russia

“Zhukov” is considered in the spring: how to protect the car body from salt in winter

Have you seen cars that are covered with a kind of “gradient” of mud, behind which you can barely discern the color? Who drives them: “economists” or ardent adherents of the “protective film” of salt and dirt? Let's figure out how to preserve paintwork in the winter so as not to count the "bugs" in the spring.

Snow removal

It would seem that what is so difficult here? There’s really nothing complicated, but the main thing is not to overdo it. It is enough to knock down a loose layer of snow, which blocks the view and so beautifully “blows away” while driving towards neighbors downstream. But you shouldn’t tear off the ice crust from the body by force - it will fall off on its own. Just as you should not pour hot water on it.

Another important point is the brush. The softer the bristles, the better, the less chance of leaving micro-scratches on the body. After removing snow, just remember to shake off the water and snow from the brush itself so that it does not freeze in the trunk or bring excess moisture into the interior.

In recent years, combined brush and scraper systems have become widespread. When choosing such a tool, it is better to pay attention to the one whose working elements are at different ends. A tool with a scraper located immediately after the brush not only loses in convenience, but can also damage the body if handled carelessly.

Washing

It’s a fact that you need to wash your car in winter. Moreover, with no less frequency than in summer, making exceptions only for the most severe frosts. Salt, reagents, and dirt literally stick to the body, filling all the damage to the paintwork. And they are on any car! We won’t talk about how salt affects the body.

Another question is how to properly wash a car in winter, when the thought of going outside without a hat doesn’t even arise. Doing this in “yard” conditions is problematic: the body becomes covered with ice, and it is difficult to remove the adhering layer of dirt and salt. You can freshen up your car, but you can’t call it a full wash. The most desperate “economists” practice washing with hot tap water, but these are extreme measures. The advice of dentists not to alternate hot and cold is fully applicable to cars, and those with caries do not treat themselves. Therefore, it is better to turn to professionals.

Although the problem of temperature differences is to some extent relevant in professional car washes. When it gets into a warm box from the street, the car’s paintwork also becomes vulnerable. Therefore, for its maximum safety, it is necessary either to make sure that the car is not poured with openly hot water, or to let the car stand in the box for at least some time so that the temperature of the metal is slightly equal to the environment.

Each type of washing - manual, contactless and tunnel - has its adherents. Those who prefer manual washing are confident in its quality - this is an indisputable fact. But the quality directly depends on the washer himself.

Contactless washing is carried out using active foam, which works instead of a washcloth. After a few minutes of being on the body, the foam is washed off, taking away all the dirt.

Perhaps the most controversial method is tunnel washing. Fast, quite high quality, but also somewhat risky. The risk lies precisely in the roller brushes, which require timely replacement. If the frequency of replacement is not observed, after such a wash you can find new micro- or even macro-scratches on the body, which in no way add beauty and do not extend the life of the paintwork. The only difference is that portal sinks are superior in terms of entertainment: observing the process from the inside is practically meditation. And don’t forget to check if the “numbers” are in place!

After the wash itself, it is advisable to take care of applying wax to the body. With it, the salt porridge will stick much worse, but that’s all we need. Not that waxing is a panacea, but regular application will help preserve the paintwork. If you wash your car yourself, shampoos that contain wax will work for this purpose.

Another way to preserve the body is to use polish. Not the abrasive one, but the protective one, with Teflon in its composition. The idea and purpose are essentially the same as waxing, but the polish lasts (and applies) longer. When polishing a car, there are no problems with this at the car wash. If the choice is made in favor of DIY care, then this must be done in advance or look for a warm garage or parking lot.

The final stage of any winter washing is drying and wiping. Door and window openings, seals, locks - these elements simply must be dry if you want to get into the car. And don’t forget about other places where water accumulates - it’s better to study them in the summer.

Here is what they say at one of the car washes: “It is important to have “your own” car wash, in which you have developed trust. Motorists have one or two favorite places where they completely trust their car. If the sink is unfamiliar, then on your first visit you need to take a closer look at it. Some washers may be “sloppy” when blowing and wiping the remaining water - in the cold season, these “little things” can play a cruel joke. Although even regular clients sometimes ask to blow out certain places, knowing where water accumulates, workers change and cannot always remember clients’ preferences.”

But the opinions of painters regarding body care are divided. So, one insists on regular washing and thorough drying, active use of wax or polish, as well as mandatory washing of the car before entering the garage at night. The second opinion is exactly the opposite: if the car is painted normally, there is no need to worry about it again; in extreme cases, stick a protective film on the most problematic areas, sills and arches.