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Why you don't need to warm up your engine in winter

Is it necessary to warm up the car engine in winter and summer?

For many years now, it has been an exciting question for all motorists whether to warm up or not to warm up the engine.
The debate on this sensitive topic will continue as long as there are cars with internal combustion engines on earth. There are two diametrically opposed camps defending their rightness until they are hoarse. We will try to consider the arguments of each side and bring our reasoning to a common denominator.

Why do you need to warm up your car engine?

First of all, you need to find the starting point from which it all began.
No, we will not look for the truth in the days of the first internal combustion engines. Let's go back literally 30 - 35 years ago. Times of progressive ideas and designs in the automotive industry. And although the innovative distributed injection system has already been actively implemented by major car manufacturers. Nevertheless, the predominant number of cars of those years were equipped with a carburetor power system, especially in the territory of the former USSR. Probably not many will remember, but many will appreciate these wonderful devices with mechanical air damper adjustment. A poorly adjusted carburetor caused a lot of trouble for the car owner, especially during winter operation. It is from those times that there has been a strong opinion, to this day supported by many craftsmen and car enthusiasts, that warming up the engine is necessary.
Because the cable-regulated air damper directly affected the number of engine revolutions, and in winter, on such cars, until the speed drops to stable operating values, which means the engine warms up, it is not advisable to start driving. The load on the engine and gearbox of the car will be too great. And now a reasonable question arises: “It was like this a long time ago, but what now, in our time, what has changed?”
A change of generations has occurred, new electronic injection systems have been successfully implemented and implemented, which, without human intervention, independently regulate the flow of the fuel-air mixture into the cylinders. Thus, reaching stable engine operating speeds occurs much faster and is less painful for the engine as a whole. This means that the start of movement can occur much earlier. Moreover, almost all manufacturers of modern cars in their vehicle operating instructions strongly do not recommend warming up the engine. Focusing on such indicators as an increase in toxicity during warm-up, as well as an increase in fuel consumption.

Warming up the car engine in winter.

One could agree and completely trust car manufacturers if they did not take into account the fact that our cars are operated not only at positive air temperatures outside the window. The winter period of operation is additional time to prepare the car for movement. While the snowdrifts after the grader are being dug out and the snow is being swept away from the body, the engine is threshing at idle - this is winter warming up. After all the work is completed, we sit down in the relatively warm interior and observe the coolant temperature arrow almost at its rightful workplace, we can move. But what happens inside the engine during this period, what does the engine experience when warming up without moving, i.e. without load. From the very first moment of startup, the engine control system raises the speed, enriching the mixture well (you probably noticed that the exhaust smells strongly of fuel at this moment), naturally, part of the fuel, without having time to burn, flows down the cylinder walls into the sump where it mixes with the engine oil Along the way, the fuel, flowing into the sump, washes away the oil film from the cylinder walls, resulting in dry friction in the cylinders. Naturally, wear and tear increases sharply. A rich mixture will also put increased stress on the catalyst and create ideal conditions for the formation of carbon deposits on injector nozzles and intake valves. Thus, closer to spring we will get a well-formed layer of soot, which will greatly change the behavior of the engine.

To finally understand the scale of this event, let’s break everything down into pros and cons.

Pros of warming up the engine:

⦁ During the warm-up period, the car interior manages to warm up slightly.
⦁ The car windows are partially defrosted.

Disadvantages of warming up the engine:

⦁ The engine operates with increased load on the catalyst.
⦁ A rich mixture at idle speed without load contributes to increased formation of carbon deposits on valves, injectors, and the bottom of the piston.
⦁ The resulting deposits will affect dynamics and power over time.
⦁ An increase in carbon deposits over time impairs mixture formation.
⦁ Unburned fuel, flowing down the cylinder walls, reduces the lubricity of the engine oil, which causes increased wear.
⦁ Unburned fuel entering the pan oxidizes the engine oil, which leads to its degradation.

The bottom line is that there is no practical need for warming up, it just wastes additional fuel. Warming up the car on the spot is harmful to the engine and the environment; the automakers' instructions provide the correct information. It is necessary to warm up the engine while driving. It is quite natural that warming up while driving occurs much faster than when the car is stationary. Therefore, the total wear is less. Much less harmful substances are released into the atmosphere. Hot oil begins to perform its functions faster and in full.


Warming up the diesel engine.

The situation with warming up a diesel car is slightly different. And the main difference is that when starting at idle speed the engine does not heat up at all. To warm up, a diesel engine needs a load that can only be obtained by driving. Prolonged warm-up will not add heat to the interior or increase the operating temperature of the engine. But it will increase the load on the particulate filter due to increased soot formation. The engine oil will also suffer due to more fuel entering the sump.

Proper engine care.

Even taking into account everything written above, it is not possible to completely eliminate warming up of the car. And the heavy operating conditions of the metropolis and traffic jams will only add to the load on the fuel system and the exhaust gas neutralization system. In this mode, neither the engine nor the fuel system will be able to recover on their own. How can you help your car not to accumulate problems like an avalanche, but to maintain its declared characteristics? Liqui Moly has answers to such questions.

Liqui Moly has extensive research and practical experience in the use of additives.
Technical experts recommend not to bring the car to a deplorable state, but to use preventive measures: For cars with a gasoline engine, periodic use of additives that clean the fuel system is recommended. Effective injector cleaner Injection Reiniger Effectiv art. 7555 will gently remove contaminants from the injectors and combustion chamber under severe operating conditions and initial symptoms of fuel system contamination. Removes carbon deposits, resins and reduces emissions of harmful substances

To reduce the load on the catalyst of a gasoline engine, technical experts recommend the Catalytic-System Clean catalyst cleaner art. 7110. This is a special product for cleaning the catalyst system of a gasoline engine. Cleans the catalyst, injection system and combustion chamber. Allows you to quickly and effectively remove carbon deposits, resins and deposits. Reduces fuel consumption and emissions of harmful substances.

To clean the intake valves of distributed injection systems, we recommend using the Ventil Sauber Valve Cleaner art. 1989. Additive effectively removes valve deposits. Removes carbon deposits on injectors, carburetor and intake tract. This helps normalize engine operation: confident starting and stable idle speed.

For cars with a diesel engine, to clean the diesel fuel injection system, Liqui Moly technicians recommend using Diesel Spulung Diesel System Cleaner art. 1912. This is a highly effective diesel fuel cleaner that removes carbon and deposits from injectors. The use of the additive also allows you to protect the fuel system from corrosion, improve engine parameters by increasing the cetane number and improving the fuel combustion process.

To reduce the load on the particulate filter of a diesel car, use the additive Diesel Partikelfilter Schutz art. 2298 will help reduce soot formation in the combustion chamber, and also minimize the amount of soot entering the filter.

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Why is it not necessary to warm up the engine in your car in winter?

When cold weather sets in, any driver, guided by common sense, before driving the car anywhere, starts the engine and lets it idle for some time so that it can warm up.

But is this really necessary? There are a large number of opinions on this matter, and car owners can talk and argue for quite a long time. As a result, drivers were asked the following question: is it necessary to warm up a car engine in the winter? There is a clear and specific answer to this: warming up the engine before driving does not extend its service life at all, which may surprise most drivers.

Warming up and operating features. Warming up the engine in cold weather can lead to insufficient lubricant in the inside of the engine block. The result of frequent warm-up is a strong reduction in its service life, due to deterioration in the quality of lubricant in the components of the power plant.

In more detail, the operation of an internal combustion engine is carried out using pistons that compress a mixture of air and injected fuel, which is subsequently ignited by a spark supplied by a spark plug in a special combustion chamber. Such a fuel ignition is a practically uncontrollable mini-explosion, which results in the release of the amount of energy necessary to power all internal components of the engine.

When the engine is cold, gasoline has a lower percentage of the opportunity to evaporate in sufficient quantities. This means that after being parked outside during the cold season, gasoline may be virtually unsuitable for optimal combustion.

Modern motor systems. Most engines of modern cars have numerous sensors in their design, the task of which is to monitor the level of temperature outside and, depending on the result, send a certain signal to the control unit to inject additional fuel. This means that in frosty weather, even with poor gasoline evaporation, the automation will supply an increased amount of fuel to the engine. This will happen until the engine warm-up temperature reaches 4-5 degrees.

Consequences. The result is that in an unheated state, more fuel enters the combustion chamber of the engine than is required by the engine, even when it is in a warm state. According to experts, this leads to the fact that all the excess fuel is deposited on the cylinder walls, which, in turn, contributes to the leaching of engine oil. It is also worth remembering that gasoline is an excellent solvent and, when starting the engine in a cold state, begins to wash out the lubricant quite quickly. One cannot but agree with the opinion that when warmed up for a short time, this is unlikely to cause significant harm to the engine, but when warmed up “the old fashioned way” for a long time, this can lead to a significant reduction in the service life of the power plant. The main reason for this will be considered a constant shortage of engine oil inside the engine.

Bottom line. However, the engine should still be allowed to warm up for some time to bring its parts into working condition. This especially applies to internal metal elements, between which there are certain thermal gaps.

Why You Shouldn't Warm Up Your Engine for a Long Time in Winter!

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Why You Shouldn't Warm Up Your Engine for a Long Time in Winter!

It seems like everyone does this: they start the car in the morning and sit inside, not moving, until the engine “warms up .”
If you are one of those who believes that this is important and right, be sure to read this article!

You are probably doing this to protect the engine. This means that we have become a victim of a myth that actually does more harm than good .
Business Insider spoke with former drag racer and University of Wisconsin-Madison engineering doctorate Steven Chiatti about the pervasive myth that you need to warm up your car in the winter.
For the last 26 years, Chiatti has been studying internal combustion engines, i.e.
motors that burn liquid fuel to produce energy. He even currently oversees the Argonne National Laboratory in Illinois. In short, the expert's conclusion is this:
Idleing a car engine in cold weather not only causes you to waste extra fuel, but also harms the engine.

Because when the engine is running and the car is stationary, the frozen oil does not have time to reach the cylinders and pistons in time.
The result is an increased, unacceptable load on them. How it works.

Under normal conditions, your car engine runs on a mixture of air and evaporated fuel - let's take gasoline as an example.
The mixture enters the cylinder, the piston compresses it - and this leads to a micro-explosion, which gives energy to the engine. But when it's cold outside, gasoline doesn't evaporate well.
Initially, your car compensates by adding more gasoline to the mixture, which is why the engine revs at higher speeds at first. And this is where the problems begin. Here is an animation that shows how the cylinders in a car work to produce energy:

“The problem is that when too much fuel enters the combustion chamber, some of it remains on the cylinder walls.
- says Chiatti. - Gasoline is an excellent solvent, and it really washes lubricants off the walls when you start the engine in the cold. This is especially important if the car has been parked on the street for a long time and will not start.” This results in insufficient lubrication of the piston rings and cylinder liners. And they are crucial for starting the cylinders and pistons, i.e. in order to “ breathe life ” into the engine of your car.
Now once again and “ in a simple way ”.
The main problem with frost is that it thickens the butter. As a result, friction units operate “dry”, and wear of mechanical parts in this case occurs much faster than usual. But in which case will the engine warm up faster - if you drive or if you stand?
Conclusion: contrary to popular belief, running the engine at idle does not prolong its life, but only shortens it.

not one of them recommends warming up the engine while parked.
And further. If you have an automatic transmission , then you need to warm it up too.
Of course, the only way to do this is to drive slowly, using the gas pedal gently. A couple of tens of seconds are enough for this: this is exactly what is usually required to leave the yard. A simple solution.

Once your engine warms up to 4.4 degrees Celsius, the speed will begin to drop.
And you will see this on the tachometer scale. Along the way, you will notice that warm air has begun to flow into the cabin. But don't confuse radiator heat with engine heat! “Idling will cause the engine to warm up more slowly than usual.
This means that the car’s electronics will continue to actively saturate the cylinders with the fuel mixture,” says Chiatti. So the fastest and best way to warm up your car is to wait 30-60 seconds after you start the engine and calmly start driving.
Or you may not have to wait at all. The main thing is not to press the gas pedal too actively in the first minutes of movement.
“Be gentle with the car for the first 5-15 minutes of driving.
This way you will save the engine from unnecessary stress,” the expert recommends. Plus, it’s simply unprofitable. An insufficiently warmed up engine spends at least 12% more fuel than usual.
If you press the gas pedal too hard immediately after getting on the road, you are simply wasting fuel without reaping any benefits. A mechanical engineer from the Massachusetts Institute of Technology assures us of this. The roots of this myth.

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Some myths are very tenacious, and this one is no exception. The basis for it was the era when all gasoline engines were carburetor . But back in the 1980s, electronic fuel injection began to be used, which made this “5 minute” rule irrelevant.
The key difference here is that electronic fuel injection itself regulates the composition of the air-fuel mixture that enters the cylinder.
The carburetor could not do this: it did not have a special sensor for this. But since they no longer make cars with carburetors, there is no need for idling.

Death to the engine: to heat or not to heat a modern engine?

HOW THE MOTOR HEATS

The engine will be fully warmed up when all its parts and working fluids reach operating temperatures, that is, at a fixed operating mode they stop changing. The coolant warms up the fastest - this is the process that we see by the change in the position of the arrow on the temperature gauge. It also warms up the parts of the upper part of the engine (pistons, cylinders, head) - the pace is almost the same. But the oil in the pan heats up much more slowly. Where can you see this? Anyone who has an on-board computer has probably noticed that even after reaching normal coolant temperature, fuel consumption at idle may continue to decrease for some time. This is precisely due to the slow heating of the oil. And finally, the converter takes the longest to heat up, and with it the toxicity of the exhaust gases reaches the operating level. But all warm-up speeds depend on the engine operating mode.


  • RESISTANCE TO MOTION

    Why doesn't the engine like frost? The main reason is that any motor oil thickens in the cold. And at certain temperatures it may stop flowing altogether. Mineral oils - already at minus 20...25 °C, the best synthetics - at minus 45...55 °C. As a result, the friction units run dry, and the power of mechanical losses increases sharply, which requires extra gasoline. But when will the motor quickly reach the normal level of mechanical losses? Should I stand and warm myself or if I go on the road immediately after starting? This will answer the question of savings - after all, extra losses require additional fuel.

    Let's check how much fuel a regular injection engine consumes with the same mileage but different warm-up algorithms. A little about the patient. A pure “European” produced in 2005, 1.6 liters of displacement, declared as Euro-4. He spent his entire adult life in Russia, but apart from maintenance, nothing was done to it. So, three warm-up programs. The first option is the “old-fashioned” one: fully warm up the engine and only then drive. The second is according to the instructions of modern cars: “started it up and drove off.” And the third is the one that can most often be found: we started up, brushed off the snow, waved a shovel (in general, we wasted time), and we warmed up the car already on the trip. Outside - minus 15. The battery is good, the tray contains expensive synthetics. Mileage - from the parking lot to work: this is about 5 kilometers, and without traffic jams! You can dream...

    So, option 1. Let's go. The tachometer needle is set at “1200”, the computer shows instantaneous fuel consumption of 2.5 l/h. After a minute, consumption drops to 1.9 liters, after 10 minutes - to 0.9 liters. Then the visible changes on the on-board computer end - the arrow on the temperature indicator does not even reach 50 degrees and stands rigid. To be safe, we wait another 10 minutes - fuel consumption decreases to 0.8 l/h, which is still more than the usual 0.6 observed when the entire engine is fully warmed up. It is not possible to achieve a better result - let's go! We are driving in fixed mode, third gear, 50 km/h, there are no traffic lights along the road. Consumption according to the computer is 6.4...6.6 l/100 km. In total, we spent 0.45 liters on warming up, and about 0.33 liters on the road. Total - about 0.8 liters.

    Option 2 - got in, started up and immediately drove off. The car didn’t like this very much, and to begin with it produced a consumption of more than 10 liters. Then it began to quickly decline, but due to the short drive it never reached the previous 6.5 - it stopped at 6.8 liters. In total, only 0.45 liters were used. Plus saving 20 minutes of precious time. There seems to be savings, but they seem impressive only on short runs.

    Option 3 - after starting, we warmed the engine for 5 minutes while the ice was scraped off the windows. We started with an idle consumption of 1.3 l/h. The beginning of the run was marked by the figure 7.6 l/100 km, by the end of the race they returned to 6.6. Total, taking into account mileage - 0.55 liters. Better than the first option, but slightly worse than the second.

    1444374074_img_2171_result_1600

    A BLOW TO THE ECOLOGY

    It is clear that the reluctance of automakers to heat the car is not caused by concern for our wallet. The main argument is ecology. After all, modern toxicity standards Euro-4 and higher impose strict restrictions on the content of toxic components during startup modes and during the warm-up period. So let's see what happens to the toxicity before the neutralizer (in professional slang it is called “raw”) and after (this is “dry” toxicity).

    So, “raw” toxicity during a cold start is very high. The reason is the need to sharply enrich the air-fuel mixture. The fuel must be evaporated, and with a big “minus” outside, it doesn’t really want to evaporate. And the air entering the cylinders is cold and dense. This means that in order to compensate for the low volatility of the fuel and the low air temperature, it is necessary to pour much more gasoline. And what has not evaporated or has already evaporated during the combustion process flies down the chimney. “TseO” and “TseAshi” are very big! And catalytic converters must crush them. But the problem with most modern neutralizers is that they work effectively only in a narrow range of temperatures and mixture composition. The temperature must be high, and the composition of the mixture must be stoichiometric, that is, there must be exactly as much air in it as is necessary for complete combustion of the fuel. Otherwise, efficiency drops sharply.

    It is curious that at low temperatures during the warming up process, a higher concentration of toxic components can be observed behind the neutralizer than at the inlet! Where? Most likely, it is the gasoline that was not burned during the first start-up cycles that floats - it “sits” on the honeycomb of the active element of the catalyst. As it heats up, the efficiency of the work increases, and, finally, the hot catalyst with the working composition of the mixture crushes almost all the toxicity. In other words, at start-up modes and during warm-up, if a modern catalyst with external heating is not used, the toxicity of an engine with a neutralizer will not differ too much from its earlier counterpart, which does not have one. Therefore, the main task is to bring the temperature of the catalyst core into the operating range as quickly as possible.

    The converter heats up from the flow of exhaust gases, and the faster the higher their flow rate and temperature. But when the process has begun in it, it begins to warm up itself - the afterburning of toxic components occurs with the release of energy. Therefore, the temperature in the active zone of the operating catalyst is higher than that of the exhaust gases. And our experiment showed that even at normal temperatures in the box, at minimum idle speed, the converter does not reach operating mode! Especially in the cold. Therefore, it will not be possible to suppress toxicity in the warm-up mode if you warm up the engine while parked: this means you need to move.

    What is the difference in emissions? The initial CH content is very high, under 1000 ppm, which, however, is expected. As the engine warms up, it begins to slowly decrease. But even after 20 minutes of warming up, when the coolant temperature has already reached the operating level, the content of residual hydrocarbons remains high - about 180 ppm. The antifreeze has warmed up, but the converter is cold and does not work effectively.

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    Now we try to warm up the engine immediately under load, simulating the second warm-up option. The beginning is the same, but the pace is different: at the end of the race, somewhere around 15...20 ppm was recorded at the exit. The neutralizer has started working! It seems like there is an answer...

    But not everything is so simple! We looked at the relative concentrations of toxic components, but we breathe in their absolute values, that is, not “pee-pee-ems,” but grams and kilograms! That is, these concentrations must be multiplied by the exhaust gas flow rate. At idle when warming up it was about 15 kg/h, but when driving, if you take it on average, it will be about 80! We multiply one by the other and get: when warming up in the parking lot, along with the further road, we rewarded nature with the number of grams of residual hydrocarbons, almost twice as large as when driving immediately after starting (4.5 grams versus 2.8).

    But the third option - when we warmed up a little and then drove off - gave an even greater reduction in absolute CH emissions: to 2.1 grams. By the way, in this version, when driving for 5 km, we emitted a little more than a gram of CH, which is close to Euro-4 standards.

    The numbers are very indicative and generally understandable. When driving on a cold engine, we work for a long time at high toxicity, while the exhaust gas consumption is high. And blowing cold air over the neutralizer while driving also slows down its warming up. When warming up in a parking lot, the neutralizer never returns to normal mode, but when you start driving at high flow rates, it quickly begins to effectively extinguish toxicity. And with a short initial warm-up, the engine does not have time to do much damage even when parked, and when warmed up in motion it works much better: after all, it has already reached a certain temperature. Here is the result.

    But what we didn’t take into account. A stinking car in a parking lot envelops the space around it in a cloud of smoke, and it’s disgusting to live there... And a moving one, as it were, blurs its “goodness” throughout the space. Globally, it turns out comparable, but at a particular point, the damage from one moving car is several times less. But in the parking lot there are one or two carriages chugging along at the same time, and crowds of them are crawling along the road...

    Why you don't need to warm up your engine in winter

    The first night frosts are coming to the central part of the country, and cars require increased attention. We have already written about what high humidity can cause, what electrical equipment failures can occur in the fall, and how to generally prepare your car for frost.

    Now the editors are arguing: is it necessary to warm up the engine and is there a difference between naturally aspirated, turbocharged, diesel or hybrid units? In what cases should you let the car idle and how should you drive it after starting? We asked all these questions not only to the editorial staff, but to the technical specialists of Autonews car services.

    Deputy editor-in-chief of Autonews.ru Nikolai Zagvozdkin: “Now even the operating instructions state that there is no need to warm up the engine. But if you really want to, then this is done at low speed, and not at idle. A running car standing still spoils the air and life of neighbors. The same applies to a diesel engine: if the car starts, you can drive right away, but if the diesel fuel is bad, then the car won’t start.”

    Autonews.ru columnist Ekaterina Demisheva: “I never specifically warm up the car. I start it up, wait a couple of seconds while all systems and sensors are tested, and then drive off. If the car starts, everything is fine. And in cold weather, the driver warms up the interior while he waits for the windshield to thaw or clears the snow from the car. This is more than enough to warm up even things that don’t require heating.”

    Autonews.ru editor Natalya Golubeva: “I always warm up my car. This makes it easier for me psychologically. I’ll sit for five minutes, rummage through my phone, and then go.”

    Autonews.ru columnist Ivan Ananyev: “If I don’t need to remove leaves or snow, I start moving almost immediately after starting. Yes, there is some subconscious desire to kind of warm up the car, but in reality the hardware doesn’t need warming up, and the oil flows through the engine channels almost instantly. If cleaning is needed, I’ll do it with the engine running - in these couple of minutes the glass, seats and mirrors will have time to heat up.”

    Autonews.ru editor Yaroslav Gronsky: “I warm it up not only in winter, but even just in cold weather. There is a feeling that a warmed-up engine works differently and is noticeably more energetic. I usually spend from one to five minutes on this, depending on the outside temperature. But I understand that these are purely my subjective feelings.”

    The technical director of the Autoglobus service center, Andrey Konev, claims that even in moderate frosts, the engine does not require special warming up: “Before the onset of frosts of minus 12–15 degrees, nothing needs to be warmed up at all. Modern oils allow any engine to operate smoothly and preserve its service life even in slight cold.”

    However, more severe frosts impose certain restrictions on starting turbo engines. “If we are talking about severe frosts, then the naturally-aspirated gasoline engine again does not need to be warmed up. There are no problems with this. If we talk about a gasoline engine with a turbine, then in order for the turbine to heat up and the lubrication system to fully operate, you can warm up the engine for about one minute. This is enough,” the expert adds.

    A diesel engine requires a longer warm-up, both with and without a turbine. When the frost is minus 15 degrees, the diesel should be warmed up for 3-5 minutes, says Konev: “Diesel fuel tends to thicken a little in the frosty season. To make the fuel in the filters more liquid, you can warm up the car for a few minutes. If you don’t do this, then nothing bad will happen either. This opinion is based on personal experience with cars. But if the temperature outside is higher, then, I repeat, there is no need to warm up anything.”

    Hybrid power units themselves determine the operating mode, and most often in the cold season, the electronics start the internal combustion engine after turning on the car. The recommendations here are the same, and special warming up is also not required, explains Vladimir Kogut, technical director of the Hybrids.ru service center. “I pressed the start button, waited a couple of seconds for my own psychological peace of mind, the headlights and instruments came on - I was ready to go. For normal operation of the internal combustion engine oil system, even in severe frost, just a couple of seconds is enough,” explains the expert.

    The issue of warming up the electric motor is not worth it at all, adds Vladimir Kogut: “Warming up the electric motor is prohibited by the operating instructions. It can only be cooled. In general, the colder the electric motor, the better. And the ideal temperature for an electric motor is minus 273 degrees, that is, absolute zero. Then superconductivity occurs. But in reality there will never be such a temperature. The problem with the Tesla car, for example, is precisely that it overheats in certain modes.”

    Modern engines do not require warming up, and there is no point in waiting for warming up at idle speed. But it’s still not worth giving the car a serious load immediately after starting. Experts recommend starting smoothly and driving calmly, so that while driving without loads, bring not only the engine, but also all other components of the car to operating temperature.

    “The design of a modern engine is such that its operation is supported by many electronic sensors. And modern oils are really much better than those that were poured into cars in the old days. In addition, the engine warms up faster while driving, rather than at idle. In addition, in a strong minus, especially with all-wheel drive, you shouldn’t start abruptly. You need to start smoothly, calmly,” says Andrey Savin, director of the Autoglobus service center.

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