Why does the steering rack break?

Symptoms of a faulty steering rack. List and debriefing

Every motorist should know and be able to identify the symptoms of a faulty steering rack. The integrity of your car and the lives of everyone in it, and perhaps those around you, depend on the normal operation of the steering wheel on the road. A car that becomes uncontrollable, especially at high speed, can cause a lot of trouble and damage. However, an inexperienced driver can easily confuse these symptoms with signs of failure of other parts of his iron friend.

And many repairs can only be carried out independently by an amateur auto mechanic who is sufficiently savvy in this matter. Therefore, you will probably have to contact the service; but at least you will know how urgently it needs to be done.

Content

Why does the steering rack break?

Symptoms of a faulty steering rack are caused by two reasons: objective and subjective. The first one, with which nothing can be done, is our roads. It’s boring to even tell jokes about their quality. Shaking on bumps and holes is the main enemy of the steering rack: it literally shakes the soul out of it. And this factor is complemented by the inevitable dust that clogs the mechanism.

But the second reason is the behavior of the driver himself. Those who prefer to quickly drive over potholes contribute to the speedy failure of the entire steering mechanism. Those who cross tram tracks or do not slow down in front of speed bumps also ruin their steering wheels. Drivers who leave their cars in a parking lot with their wheels turned out or drive out in the cold with an unheated engine and sharp turns of the steering wheel will create problems for themselves in the near future.

Warning signs

There are several of them, and from them you can guess that something is wrong with the steering rack, although sometimes you have to disassemble it almost to the last screw to determine exactly what is broken. However, you need to immediately pay attention to the following things:

• First of all, there is a knock from the front, in the suspension area. A lot of things can knock there, and all these parts are extremely important for the normal operation of the car. However, it is the rack that behaves in this way: at the initial stage, the knock is little noticeable and appears mainly on washboard-type roads. Further, if you do not take action, it becomes louder and reverberates through the steering wheel; sometimes so much that the steering wheel is torn out of your hands. The next stage is simply the roar and uncontrollability of the car;
• after parking, even for a relatively short period, oil puddles form on the asphalt under the car in front;
• the steering wheel turns with difficulty in both directions; sometimes this is accompanied by a whistle. This effect is caused by weakening the drive belt. Either the rotor pair is whistling, or the power steering is almost dry;
• The steering wheel is tight, but as it accelerates it begins to move more easily, but the process is accompanied by an unpleasant itch. Most likely, scuffs appeared on the rotor and mating planes;

How to prevent troubles?

Of course, it is impossible to permanently eliminate problems with the steering wheel - like any mechanism, sooner or later it will wear out anyway. However, you can postpone the need for repairs for quite a considerable time. And not only a smoother ride with no obstacle races (over curbs, holes, paths, etc.). A few easy-to-follow recommendations, followed by the owner, will save your rack for a long time.

• Regularly check the condition of the boots and change them on time to prevent dirt from getting inside;
• In winter, before starting a trip, gently turn the steering wheel back and forth so that the oil coats all the parts;
• Do not accelerate when the steering wheel is turned all the way;
• Do not hold the steering wheel in the extreme position for a long time - maximum 5 seconds.

Monitor all manipulations performed at the service station that affect the steering in any way. There are often cases when, after debugging the wheel alignment, auto mechanics forget to tighten the boot clamp that they themselves had loosened. And then you will not soon have to remember the symptoms of a faulty steering rack.

What are the signs of a faulty steering rack?

The steering rack is a mechanism responsible for turning the front wheels of the car and connected to them through rods. Like any other unit, the element gradually wears out during operation, which negatively affects the controllability of the machine. Since this problem is related to the safety of the driver and passengers, the car owner needs to recognize the signs of a faulty steering rack in order to fix them as soon as possible or install a new spare part.

Briefly about the mechanism

The element is a cylindrical body containing the following parts:

• the gear rack itself, moving inside the bushings;
• drive shaft with helical gear, rotating on 2 bearings (connected to the steering column);
• 2 rods connected to the ends of the rack and pinion mechanism and the steering knuckles of the hubs;
• a system of stops and springs that limit the travel of the rack and select the backlash of the gear transmission;
• rubber covers (anthers) in the form of round “accordions” that protect the mechanism crankcase from dirt;
• the element body is filled with liquid lubricant.

This is the design of a conventional mechanical and so-called electric rack, operating in conjunction with an electric power steering (EPS). If the car is equipped with a hydraulic booster (power steering), then the design of the mechanism is supplemented with cylinders and pistons that help move the gear bar in one direction or another.

The element works on a simple principle: when the steering wheel rotates, the drive shaft moves the rack through a gear in the required direction. The ends of the part connected to the rods cause the front wheels to turn. The power steering or electric power steering reacts to the movement of the steering wheel and “pushes” the rack and pinion mechanism in the desired direction, relieving physical stress from the driver.

Signs of trouble

Since most passenger cars are equipped with a hydraulic booster, symptoms of rack wear should be considered in conjunction with power steering elements - pump, control valve and oil lines.

Problems with the operation of the rack and pinion mechanism are divided into obvious and hidden. The motorist himself can identify the former while driving or as a result of inspecting components and assemblies. In the second case, the service station technician can clearly identify the fault. Your task is to react in time and contact a service station if the following symptoms appear:

1. A knocking sound heard from the front of the car when driving over uneven surfaces, especially when turning. The sound location is approximately in the center where the rail is installed.
2. When driving over small bumps or loose surfaces, vibration is clearly transmitted to the steering wheel.
3. After completing a turn, the steering wheel reluctantly returns to its original position or remains turned. When you try to rotate quickly, the steering wheel becomes heavy.
4. The free play of the steering wheel has noticeably increased, causing the car to “yaw” on a straight section of the road and requiring constant adjustment of the trajectory by the driver.
5. Hum, whistle and other extraneous sounds.
6. To turn, you have to apply a lot of force on the steering wheel.
7. Critical failure - jamming of the mechanism or spontaneous rotation of the steering wheel without changing the direction of movement.

Note. The specificity of the knocking of the rack and pinion mechanism is its central location, which makes it seem to the driver as if the sound is coming from both sides at once. A confirming sign is vibration on the steering wheel and an increase in play.

If you can clearly determine that the steering rack is knocking, perform an external inspection of the unit. Pay special attention to the rubber boots - they are visible through the arches of the front wheels and partially under the hood. The best option is an inspection in a viewing ditch. Gusts and oil on the accordions indicate that water and dirt have entered the element, accelerating the wear of all parts.

Other external signs of failure are grease leaks on the unit casing. If you do not immediately notice a leaky oil seal, the oil level in the crankcase will drop and the so-called ring wear of the housing and power cylinder will begin. The consequences are an expensive replacement of the assembly.

If you have power steering, you need to inspect not only the rack, but also the power steering elements - pump, belt drive and oil hoses. Look into the expansion tank - a low level will immediately make it clear that lubricant is being lost as a result of a leak. Additional confirmation is fresh stains under the car at the place of permanent storage.

We wrote more about the problem in this article.

Unlike power steering, electric amplifiers do not show signs of malfunction and fail immediately. But such cases are rare; in general, the EUR is a fairly reliable unit.

What to do with rack faults?

In the vast majority of cases, the steering rack is replaced or repaired at a car service center, since even removing the element is not an easy task. But minor problems can be solved on your own, for example:

1. Replace the torn rubber boot. If you discover this defect at an early stage, when the rack and pinion mechanism is functioning properly, you can change the casing in the garage in the inspection pit. Don't forget to clean the dirt from the parts under the boot.
2. Eliminate hydraulic fluid leaks on the pipes. To do this, you will have to empty the system and replace the hoses, preferably all at once.
3. Install new tie rod ends. Signs of worn ball pins are very similar to a faulty steering rack - there is play in the steering wheel and a knocking sound.
4. Replace the broken steering shaft crosspiece.
5. Tighten or change the belt that rotates the hydraulic pump pulley. Slipping of the belt drive leads to deterioration in the performance of the amplifier and difficult rotation of the steering wheel.

The design of the rack provides for the adjustment of gaps in the transmission unit. In the early stages of gear wear, backlash is eliminated by tightening the adjusting screws. It is highly undesirable to perform the operation yourself: if you overdo it and leave no gaps, the gear train will wear out even faster.

When the problem lies inside the rack and pinion housing, you won’t be able to eliminate the knocking noise yourself, unless you are a car mechanic yourself. The most common internal faults are:

• development of teeth on the rack or steering shaft;
• bearing play;
• depressurization of seals;
• ring wear of bushings, cylinders;
• deformation of the shaft or the rack itself as a result of the wheel falling into a deep pothole and hitting the mechanism.

Some of the listed breakdowns are eliminated by installing repair kits in a car service center. It is better not to replace worn parts of the gear train separately - it is necessary to install a new rack.

Steering rack malfunctions: signs, causes, diagnosis

How to determine a faulty steering rack?

Let's start with the fact that on modern cars several types of steering racks are currently widely used: mechanical, electrical and hydraulic. Well, if with mechanical slats, everything seems to be clear and not at all difficult, then sometimes only an experienced technician can determine the malfunction of the other two types of slats, resorting to the help of special equipment and tools. To accurately diagnose steering problems, it is recommended to visit a specialized service center, because it often requires complete dismantling and disassembly of the mechanism down to the last detail. However, the main problems can be identified by yourself, based on several alarming signs.

How to check the steering rack yourself?

Symptoms of malfunction:

A knocking sound appears in the front suspension. At first it can be almost invisible and appears only on very rough roads, but in the future it will appear constantly. If the mechanism is severely damaged, the machine becomes uncontrollable.

The appearance of oil puddles on the asphalt under the car. This is one of the common signs of a faulty steering rack for cars with a power steering system. Worn oil seals and gaskets are to blame for hydraulic fluid leakage; sealing elements require replacement.

Difficulty turning wheels. The steering wheel turns tightly, and when driving, an extraneous whistle or hum may occur. The problem may be related to damage to the power distributor, drive belt or power steering pump, however, it is necessary to carry out an accurate diagnosis at a car service center.

Tight steering wheel. This is especially noticeable at the beginning of the movement; it is also difficult to turn the steering wheel during severe cold weather.

Reduced vehicle controllability. The car does not respond to turning the steering wheel; the steering wheel may not return to its original position.

Beating in the steering wheel. The appearance of vibration when turning and when moving along a straight path.

To accurately identify a faulty steering rack on a car, it is better to contact a specialist. It is not always possible to carry out high-quality repairs: in case of complex damage and deep corrosion of the elements of this mechanism, the rack will have to be replaced with a new or restored one. Independent disassembly of the mechanism and replacement of parts does not always allow you to obtain the desired result.

The steering rack is designed to transfer energy from the steering wheel to the wheels, and the car's controllability and traffic safety largely depend on its serviceability. Every driver should be able to recognize the signs of a faulty steering rack and know when it is necessary to contact a car service to repair or replace it. Reduced vehicle controllability leads to emergency situations in which all road users may suffer.

The steering rack mechanism fails for two main reasons:

1. driving on uneven roads;

2. moisture getting inside the case.

Wheels falling into holes and potholes on the road surface, driving over rails, hitting curbs - all this leads to increased load on the mechanism and its premature wear. Another inevitable cause of problems is dust: small particles of sand and moisture clog the mechanism, and as a result it quickly fails. If you often have to drive on dusty, rough roads, you need to constantly monitor the condition of the boots and bypass tubes found on some models of modern cars to prevent sudden breakdowns.

Also, the causes of steering rack malfunction are rash actions of the driver.

The most common mistakes:

Driving at full speed over a speed bump

Moving tram tracks across the rails at high speed

Parking a car in winter with the wheels turned out

Driving over curbs with the wheels turned out

Sharp turns of the steering wheel when driving a cold car in cold weather (this point is only relevant for cars with a power steering system)

These and many other factors provoke accelerated wear and breakdown of parts, resulting in steering elements requiring expensive repairs or complete replacement.

Problems with power steering - causes and symptoms of malfunction

The first sign of a malfunction is a leak of hydraulic fluid, which disrupts the operation of the entire system. If timely repairs are not carried out, the power steering pump will eventually fail. To identify problems with the power steering, you need to pay attention to the following signs of problems:

An increase in the foaminess of the hydraulic fluid indicates air leaks in the power steering system.

Increased noise and the appearance of extraneous sounds when turning the steering wheel. The problem may indicate insufficient fluid in the reservoir, or wear on the power steering pump.

Problems with the operation of the hydraulic booster at idle speed. As soon as the number of revolutions increases, the problem disappears.

There is no gain when turning the steering wheel in one or both directions. This problem occurs as a result of damage to the Teflon distributor rings.

What to do if the hydraulic booster breaks down? At the first sign of problems, you should contact a specialist. Over time, small deviations from the norm will turn into serious problems with the vehicle's handling, and this can cause an accident. It is difficult to check the device yourself: only a professional with many years of experience can accurately determine the malfunction.

Steering rack diagnostics

Diagnostics of steering racks with a power steering system in our service can be carried out using a professional stand designed to simulate the operation of a steering rack in real conditions and under extreme loads.

If the steering rack begins to leak or other signs of malfunction appear, it is completely disassembled in a car service center. The specialist will evaluate the integrity of the housing, the condition of the O-rings and seals. If the cause of the leak is worn sealing elements, they are replaced with new ones.

The technician conducts an external inspection of the rack for mechanical damage and traces of corrosion. The wear of the rack and worm gear is checked. If there are deviations in the gearing adjustment, problems with turning the steering wheel will inevitably arise. If the pair is not properly engaged, it rotates too tightly. Diagnosing a faulty steering rack requires experience, since often the problem is detected in a location other than where it was originally expected.

After contacting a car service center and troubleshooting, a wheel alignment must be performed to set the optimal wheel alignment angles. This work cannot be trusted to “garage” specialists, since the controllability of the car and the rate of tire wear depend on correct adjustment.

How to avoid steering rack breakdowns?

Any mechanism wears out over time and requires replacement of components, but you can ensure it has the longest possible life. To prevent the steering rack from failing, it is important to follow the operating rules of the car and prevent premature wear of parts. Here are some useful tips:

Check the condition of the boots and change them promptly. This will prevent dust and water from entering the device, which can cause various breakdowns.

In the cold season, before starting, gently turn the steering wheel several times. This will allow the oil to reach all parts.

Hold the steering wheel in the extreme position for no more than 5 seconds.

Try not to hit deep potholes on the road, do not drive over rails at high speed unless absolutely necessary, and also reduce your speed in front of speed bumps. Strong impacts when driving on uneven roads are one of the most common causes of malfunction.

Careful driving and timely maintenance of the mechanism guarantee excellent handling and maximum driving safety.

Our service center offers qualified diagnostics and repair of steering racks of any type; we work with cars of all makes and models. Use the services of professionals to quickly solve the problem and get your machine back to work. You can buy a new steering rack or repair kits for self-repair

Steering rack: main faults and how to repair

Hello, dear friends! It's nice to see you again on the pages of our website. This means that we are not doing our work in vain.

The hero of our material today is the steering rack. Every car owner and just a person interested in cars has at least heard about this element of the car. In simple terms, a device called a rack is the mechanism needed to transfer rotation from the steering wheel to your drive wheels. Initially, they were made on the basis of an ordinary gear on the steering shaft, from which the rack rod came. But over time, manufacturers have improved the mechanism, as a result of which most cars have hydraulic and electrical systems. Mechanical analogues are also relevant, but mainly on older cars.

Briefly about the types

To be honest, already being the owner of the car, I didn’t really bother about its maintenance. But life, as they say, forced me. My father set the condition that the maintenance of the car given to me falls entirely on me, that is, my wallet. And since I could not always afford to refuel the car and buy something new for it, since the price was high, I had to do the repairs with friends, simultaneously studying instructions with photos, videos and studying the instruction manual.

Yes, now I earn a lot more, such concepts as a bearing, oil seal, boot or bushing are not new to me. But here’s the paradox: replacement of any parts, repairs and maintenance are carried out exclusively at the service station. This is what I advise you to do if we are talking about cars with electric steering or power steering. You can easily repair your Matiz without power steering with your own hands in a garage.

As we have already figured out with you, there are three types of steering rack (RR).

1. Mechanical. The simplest among those existing. The wheels of the car turn only due to the force that you apply to the steering wheel, that is, the steering wheel. I sympathize with the owners of old Ladas, Muscovites and especially the Volga. Turning the steering wheel is one of the difficult tasks on such cars. Structurally, a mechanical RR consists of gears that operate on a similar principle to a gearbox. The system has a pair of gear devices. One is connected to the steering gear, and the second to the wheel rods. They have a specific gear ratio that helps the driver a little when cornering.
2. Hydraulic. As reviews show, it is the RR with hydraulic booster that is considered the optimal and most common option. What do you think is the RR on 80% (maybe I’m exaggerating) of modern new cars? That's right, hydraulic. Thanks to the amplifier, you can easily and naturally turn the steering wheel; even minimal effort is enough to turn the car around its axis. When passing through potholes, shocks are absorbed, so driving becomes safer and more comfortable. Structurally, the gas pump consists of a pump (pump) necessary to move working fluids. When the steering wheel turns, the fluid puts pressure on the piston and rod, which are responsible for turning the wheels. If the steering wheel is in neutral, all the fluid returns back. It's noteworthy that GRRs first appeared on trucks because they were insanely difficult to drive. But soon leading automakers appreciated this development and began to use it on passenger cars.
3. Electric. The ERR uses an electric motor to convert steering movement into wheel position changes. Control is carried out using sensors and an electronic control unit. The motor itself is mounted on a rack, it is built into the steering column or mounted on a shaft. There are three installation methods, which is important when dismantling and replacing the unit. But I strongly advise you not to buy a car with a motor built into the column. Why? If the PP breaks down, then the car will simply lose control. ERR is considered a system of the future, since the efficiency indicators of such a rack are the highest. They are easy to service; there is no oil seal or working fluid. They have a high level of savings. The electric motor responsible for the RR turns on only when the driver begins to turn the steering wheel.

When choosing a Ford Focus 2, Volkswagen Passat, Nissan Almera, Lada Granta, Toyota Corolla, Renault Logan or the same Peugeot, Citroen, Mitsubishi Lancer, do not forget to check what kind of rack is there, whether it needs replacement and how to remove this element if necessary .

Based on the reviews, you can find out what typical faults the RR has in Renault Megane, Skoda, Chevrolet Lacetti, Audi, Mazda 6, Daewoo, Hyundai, Honda, Nissan cars. Replacement on each of them is carried out according to the corresponding algorithm prescribed in the operating manual.

I realized a long time ago that the manufacturer’s instruction manual, which comes with the car when it is purchased, is the holy of holies for the car owner. Only using it you need to select new spare parts, figure out how to tighten the rack, how to tighten it or fix other faults.

Each rack has its own number, article number, according to which you can purchase a new element to replace the old one, which has outlived its time.

I don’t advise you to look for where the slats are more reliable and rely only on this criterion when buying a car. Most modern new cars have fairly reliable PP designs. They do not fail so often, but they are made much better than on our VAZ 2110, 2108, 2112 and even 2114. Kalina and Priora are not among the leaders in reliability. But the advantage of domestic cars is that you can repair them yourself.

Signs of damage

I made an important conclusion for myself. The main killer of the steering rack, regardless of the car, is the road. It is the “excellent” quality roads in our country that lead to the need to buy a repair kit, spend time and money visiting service stations in Moscow, St. Petersburg and any other city. The worse the roads in your area, the more often you will encounter such phenomena as play, knocking and vibration.

If you have a car with hydraulic or electric power steering, you are in many ways lucky. They work well on high-quality imported machines. But their removal, replacement or repair is a task only for specialists.

Your mission is to detect faults in time. In the case of the steering rack, characteristic signs of failure are:

• the steering wheel becomes harder to turn in certain steering wheel positions;
• the RR knocks, a characteristic sound appears;
• the steering wheel vibrates;
• if this is a hydraulic hydraulic fracturing system, then hydraulic fluid begins to leak out;
• the steering wheel does not fully return to its original position after turning;
• When turning the steering wheel, the wheels do not turn in accordance with the rotation of the steering wheel.

If there are problems with the RR, there are two ways to solve the problem - replace the part with a new one or try to repair it. Find out how much repairs and parts cost, compare them with the prices that experts ask for. At many service stations, as I noticed, even if it is possible to get by with minor repairs, the technicians offer to change the rack. This is beneficial to them, since replacement costs more than minor repairs. Therefore, I advise you to find a trusted car service, where they will not deceive you, but will do what is really needed.

Although some people themselves know where the rack is located in their car, which stores sell good used RR units and how they can be changed with their own hands. If there are domestic old cars, I support self-repair. For our newer cars and especially foreign cars, I strongly recommend not to repair the rack yourself. Too responsible job.

Common problems

Each car has its own weak points. Moreover, even some leading automakers have a weak point in the steering rack. Here I would include Ford, Opel, Renault, Toyota and, unfortunately, Lada and VAZ.

Practice shows that the rack usually leaks or knocks. These are the two most characteristic features relevant for this node.

Having discovered a malfunction, you must immediately begin to eliminate it.

1. Superficial knock. It comes from the front of the car. Most likely the boot is damaged. In this case, the tips quickly break, which causes a knocking sound. The easiest way to solve the problem is to change the anthers. Don't forget to look at the condition of the remaining items. If they are worn out, dust boots alone will not do.
2. Internal knock. If you hear it, then there are problems with two components of the PP - the pistons and the guide bushings. To check, you will have to disassemble the entire device and find the culprit. If you are a novice driver, then you are unlikely to be able to determine the nature of the RR knock.
3. Constant knocking. It can be internal or superficial. If a knocking noise constantly accompanies you when driving a car, then the entire assembly has simply worn out. Over time, even the most reliable cars wear out, especially on our roads. There is no point in trying to repair the device. What tactics will be relevant in this case, you ask? The most basic one. We throw out the old steering rack and put a new one in its place.
4. Flow. If you have a car with ERR or MRR, then this problem will not be relevant. This is a disease of cars with hydraulic booster. A leak of working fluid indicates wear of the oil seal, which needs to be replaced. In fact, replacing the oil seal is not as simple as it seems. For each car you can find a repair kit, which includes an oil seal, bearing, boot and other elements.
5. The steering wheel does not turn with the ESD. Typically, this symptom is typical when the electric motor itself breaks down. So it will have to be removed and replaced with a new one.
6. The power steering wheel is difficult to turn. Most likely the pump is broken. As in the case of an electric motor, it is better to replace the main driving force of the steering rack with a high-quality analogue.

Useful tips

Well, dear friends. I hope you understand how important the steering rack is, and that it is strictly not recommended to repair it yourself without knowledge of the matter.

But it is within your power to ensure the maximum lifespan of this node. To do this, just follow a few simple tips.

• Always monitor the condition of the anthers. Behind them are the main components of the system. If the boot tears or cracks, a hole appears on it, through which dust and dirt penetrate inside. All this leads to rapid wear of parts. If you notice even minor cracks, change the boot;
• In winter, do not rush to immediately start the car and drive. Warm up the engine a little. Standing still, turn the steering wheel in different directions, but with a slight deviation. This will help warm up the oil in the RR and thereby lubricate the system parts;
• Any holes, bumps and speed bumps must be driven carefully, slowing down. But if you notice a hole late, then you shouldn’t brake directly in it. Otherwise, you risk being left without wheels altogether. The more careful your driving, the better the car feels;
• Periodically change the hydraulic fluid. The frequency is indicated in the operating manual for your car;
• Do not drive away with a sharp press on the gas pedal. This is especially harmful for RR when the steering wheel is turned all the way to the left or right.

Time to sum up, dear readers. RR is a complex mechanism that not everyone is well versed in. Moreover, not even any service station will be able to competently carry out repair work for you. My advice to you is to find a good, proven service station that you can trust. This is a useful acquaintance for any car owner, plus a regular customer for a car service. Agree, this is a mutually beneficial relationship.

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Expensive and difficult: what breaks in steering racks with power steering, and how they are repaired

A rack-and-pinion steering mechanism with an integrated power steering system, or more simply put, a rack-and-pinion power steering system, is something that the owner of any used car hopes to avoid repairing. Sometimes, at the first sign of a malfunction, such as a humming pump, a knocking rack, or leaking fluid, they prefer to sell the car altogether, so as not to deal with expensive repairs. If you remember, we have already described the process of replacing the rack assembly - but this is the simplest option, subject to unlimited funding. If the cost of the rack causes a sharp surge of adrenaline due to its price tag, then they resort to repairing it. Today we will look at the complete process of repairing a power steering mechanism from the moment it reaches the acceptance department (reception department) until the moment the repaired product is handed over to the customer, and along the way we will find out how complex this operation is and why it is so expensive.

Reiki with power steering: how they work and what they are like

In essence, all rack and pinion steering mechanisms with hydraulic booster are the same. However, upon closer examination, some nuances can be identified. For example, the notch of the teeth on the steering rod can be straight, angled and with variable pitch of the teeth. We will not consider the advantages and disadvantages of each option within the framework of this material.

So, the principle of operation, as we have already found out, is the same: the rod moves in bushings installed in the steering mechanism housing and is sealed with oil seals. There are also rack and pinion mechanisms with a triangular shaft, as the masters call it. True, one and almost the only one of its advantages can only be called the possibility of earlier detection of wear. Otherwise, it has only disadvantages, the most significant of which is the impossibility of replacing the bushing and rod seal without removing the power steering piston (we will return to this below).

The steering rod of the steering mechanism, regardless of the version, is pressed with a special stop, with the help of which the clearance in the engagement is adjusted. The steering gear drive shaft is integral with the spool. The spool is a special bypass valve that, depending on which direction you turn the steering wheel, redirects the flow of working fluid into the cavity to the right or left of the piston mounted on the steering rod, thereby helping you rotate the steering wheel. This piston moves inside a cylinder, which is part of the body of the entire steering mechanism.

Separately, it is worth mentioning the ventilation inside the steering mechanism. The fact is that the anthers are pressed quite tightly against the steering rods and the steering mechanism housing, and therefore when the rod moves, a vacuum can be created in one of the anthers, which, in turn, can lead to accelerated wear of the anther itself or, even worse, the influx of dust or dirt from outside into the body. There are three design solutions to this problem: ventilation ducts in the steering gear rod, ventilation ducts in the steering gear housing, connected by a tube, and ventilation ducts in the boots, which are also connected by a tube.

The last approach, admittedly, is the most unreliable. If the tube breaks or the boot is damaged at the connection point, the steering mechanism will immediately fill with water and dirt, which will immediately lead you to where we went to create this material.

Power steering pumps

Before moving on to the nuances of operation and breakdowns, it is worth mentioning separately one of the most expensive power steering elements - its pump. There are two types of pumps, differing in the type of drive - driven by the engine crankshaft and driven by an electric motor. Today we are looking at the first version of the pump.

Its structure is quite simple: two plates, in which channels for intake and supply of working fluid are cut out, cover a stator ring with an ellipsoidal profile, inside which a rotor with blades rotates.