How to check a new battery when purchasing

Ways to check a new car battery when purchasing

When operating a car, it may be necessary to evaluate the performance of an old battery or test a new battery when purchasing. This will allow you to purchase a serviceable battery and, with proper use, achieve a significant increase in the service life of the device.

Verification Process

To avoid problems in winter and to be sure that the battery is in good condition, you need to check the car battery at several points when purchasing it.

Main stages of the study:

1. External inspection of the battery.
2. Checking the electrolyte level and its density for serviced models.
3. Measuring the voltage on the battery with a multimeter.
4. Checking with a load fork.

Before purchasing a new battery, you need to inspect it and check for damage to the case, chips or cracks that could have formed during transportation. If there are defects, then the battery cannot be purchased. Vibration during operation can quickly damage a car battery. Then you should evaluate the following parameters :

1. Date of issue. If the battery was stored for a long time, the plates could crumble: such an installation will not last long. The maximum shelf life is two years.
2. Terminal voltage. It should be at least 12.6 V. If the voltmeter shows less than 12 V, then the battery is either discharged or faulty.
3. Fill out the warranty card. Otherwise, the driver will have to pay for the breakdown.

Measuring the voltage at the terminals is not enough. To check the battery upon purchase, you need to use a load fork. It consists of a voltmeter and a load resistance connected to it in parallel. The plug allows you to check the battery when purchasing and when assessing the performance of the device in use.

To check, you need to connect the plug with correct polarity and measure the voltage without load. It should be 12.5−13 V. Then the load is connected for 5 seconds. At the end of this period of time, the voltage with a fully charged battery should not fall below 10.2 V.

If there is a large drawdown of up to 6-7 V, we can talk about a battery malfunction. If the voltage under load drops to 9.6 V and then recovers, then the battery is discharged and should be charged.

Measurements with the engine running

When the engine is running, the multimeter should show from 13.5 to 14.0 V. A voltage greater than 14.2 V indicates a low battery charge, and the generator operating mode is increased. If after 5-10 minutes the situation levels out, then everything is in order with the electrics.

If the voltage does not drop to normal, overcharging and boiling off of the electrolyte may occur. A voltage of 13.0−13.4 V with the engine running and energy consumers (heating, headlights, radio) turned off indicates that the battery is not fully charging.

If the multimeter shows less than 13 V, this means that the generator is not charging the battery. With all consumers turned on, the voltage should not be less than 12.8-13.0 V. If it is less, the battery needs to be changed.

The battery charge level indicates its ability to maintain voltage for some period of time. When the battery is fully charged, even after a week of inactivity, the voltage will not drop much. If the car’s battery is discharged, the charge will not last long.

Battery categories

All batteries are divided into three types: maintenance-free, low-maintenance and maintenance-free.

Before purchasing , you need to figure out what type of battery is needed :

1. Serviceable - fully repairable devices. It allows you to replace the plates and control the level and density of the electrolyte. This is an outdated model. It becomes unpopular precisely because it quickly breaks down if poorly maintained. Most often this happens due to boiling and evaporation of the electrolyte. Such a battery requires constant monitoring.
2. Low-maintenance batteries are distinguished by the design of their lids, which allows electrolyte vapor to condense and return to the jar. They rarely have to be serviced, but the need to monitor the electrolyte level remains.
3. Maintenance-free - this is a sealed design; they do not need to be serviced; it is not possible to add water or check the density of the electrolyte. But if used correctly, it is reliable and will work for a long time.

You need to buy a battery of the capacity specified in the car’s instructions. It is possible to choose a slightly larger container. This will help the car start more easily in winter conditions.

It is better to purchase batteries in specialized stores . They always check the battery upon purchase. The goods in such stores are certified, and if they are defective, they will be replaced. Nowadays, the most common batteries are low-maintenance ones. They have a long service life and a good ratio between price and quality.

5 things to know when buying a battery

Batteries are rarely changed - on average once every 5 years (some every 3 years, and there are others that last 7-10 years). Therefore, the article is recommended for reading by both novice car owners and experienced motorists for whom it is time to change the battery.

1. Appearance

As obvious as it may sound, a new battery that has not been used before should look like new. No scratches, chips or cracks! Even an insignificant, at first glance, crack that is barely noticeable on the case, or a chip on a corner can cause electrolyte leakage already during the operation of the battery.

What are the risks of having defects? At a minimum, there will be additional expenses for the purchase of a new battery, because it will not be possible to return a battery with mechanical damage to the store. Ideally, of course, you will need to buy a new battery. Although there are still craftsmen in Russia who know how to add electrolyte, distilled water, and can even play tricks on the body of a maintenance-free battery. In any case, electrolyte leakage leads to additional costs. And if it’s not money, then it will definitely be nerves and time.

2. Condition of current leads

By the way the current leads (terminals) look, you can easily understand whether the battery in front of you is new. Caps (or covers) are placed on the terminals of new batteries. Often there is only 1 cap - on the “positive” terminal. This is a common practice of manufacturers, so do not worry if you do not find the second cap (on the “minus”).

Remove the caps and carefully inspect the current leads. In addition to the fact that they must be strictly perpendicular to the body, they must also be smooth. A rough surface with chips and scratches indicates that the current leads have probably already been crimped with terminals, that is, the battery has been used before. In this case, small dots and barely noticeable scratches are allowed, which may appear when checking the battery with a load fork, multimeter, etc., which is carried out by the manufacturer himself before releasing the battery from the factory.

Novelty is a general requirement for the appearance and individual elements of batteries. For example, plugs should also be without signs of opening.

What are the dangers of traces of exploitation? Again, a waste of money. Traces of crimping on the terminals indicate that the battery has been used, so it will not be possible to return it to the store without good reason.

3. Year of production

The year of manufacture of the battery is no less important and eloquent than its external condition. Ideally, the battery is less than one year old at the time of purchase. Imported batteries can be granted an additional six months (taking into account the long process of delivery, storage in warehouses, customs clearance, etc.). Simply put, if you buy a battery in 2018, then it must be produced no later than in 2017.

But here a snag may arise, which many careless sellers take advantage of. Determining the year of manufacture of a battery, especially an imported one, is not so easy. If on domestic batteries the release date is indicated in a more or less understandable format (for example, 08.17, which means: August 2017 or 102016 - October 2016), then the marking on imported batteries may look like this: 44/15, like this: 29Т6211 0 or even like this: G2С1050520991 536528 82E 09. To prevent the seller from taking advantage of your ignorance, Google! On the Internet you can find a decoding of the labeling of any manufacturer!

Example. VARTA batteries are marked as follows: G5V6070920334, where:

• The first letter (in our case – G) is the country of manufacture. For VARTA these may be:
  • A – Austria
  • C – Czech Republic
  • E (G) – Spain
  • F – France
  • N – Germany
  • S – Sweden
• The first digit (in our case – 5) is the number of the conveyor belt
• The second letter (we have V) is shipping details:
  • E – the battery is installed when the car is assembled at the car plant
  • V – battery intended for retail sale
• The second digit (in the code from the example it is number 6) means the year of manufacture (the last digit in the year numbering)
• The 3rd and 4th digits (for us it is 07) – the month the battery was manufactured
• The 5th and 6th digits (in our case – 09) – day of manufacture
• 7th digit – shift number

As a result, we have a VARTA battery, produced in Spain, on the 5th assembly line, for retail sale, in 2016, in July, on the 9th, on the 2nd shift.

What are the dangers of an old battery? At a minimum, the purchase is unprofitable. After 2-3 years of storage, the battery could have already “crumbled” by half.

4. Voltage and density

The suitability of the battery is checked with a conventional voltmeter (or multimeter). For a new, fully charged battery, the normal voltage should fluctuate between 12.6-12.7 V. This means that the battery is 100% charged, it can be installed and safely driven. A voltage of 12.5 V means the battery is approximately 75% charged. In principle, you are allowed to travel, nothing critical. A voltage of 12.3 V or lower indicates that the battery is discharged, and in this case it is better to refrain from purchasing. In some stores, new batteries are additionally checked with a load fork.

It is rare, but there are clients who ask to measure the density of the electrolyte. The seller is not obliged to do this, but can accommodate it halfway. Therefore, we provide the following information for easy reference.

The density of the electrolyte in the battery should be 1.28±0.01 g/cm³.

5. Reviews (about the battery, about the manufacturer, about the seller)

Dear Clients! Today it’s easier than ever to get the information you need (thanks to the Internet). Therefore, before purchasing, do not be lazy to find out more about the batteries suitable for your car, about the manufacturers (each of them has an official website) and about the store where you are going to make the purchase. As they say, whoever has the information controls the situation.

Battery health: how to check a car battery when purchasing in a retail chain

We only heard about the shortage of car batteries from the lips of experienced owners of Volgas, Zhigulis and Muscovites. There was one plus from this - the battery maintenance culture flourished, as a result of which it worked properly for at least 7 years. Nowadays, even AGM class products do not take that long to be maintained, although 10 years is not the limit for them. Of course, the energy consumption of the VAZ 2101 and, say, the “five” from BMW cannot be compared. The question is the approach: an expensive power source is not at all a reason to ignore checking it in the store and throw the charger on the top shelf.

What methods can you use to check the charge of a car battery when purchasing in a store?

The call to test a future purchase cannot be used as the basis for choosing a new battery - there is no point in examining the entire assortment of the store, 2-3 specific models are enough. Decide on the size and polarity, brand and manufacturing technology (calcium, hybrid, EFB, AGM). Then choose a label that promises more amps and amp-hours before asking for a test.

A simple test of a battery when purchasing involves measuring the voltage at its terminals. The actual figure allows you to judge the state of charge of the battery. It is quite clear that you only need to take the 90-100% charged version - then you won’t have to get acquainted with the desulfation procedure ahead of time or dispose of the battery after another season due to crumbling active mass.

1. Load fork. An electrical load simulating the connection of a capacious energy consumer (for example, a starter) for a short time. The case is equipped with a voltmeter.
2. Multimeter. A multifunctional device that includes an electronic voltmeter that measures the potential difference without load.

Alternative methods for assessing battery health

When is knowing the number in Volts enough? When a battery that is no more than 6 months old is unpacked before our eyes and an initial voltage measurement is performed. The fact that the car battery is 100% charged confirms the low degree of self-discharge - you can safely take it.

It is useful to supplement voltage measurements with hydrometer readings if the body of the future investment object is covered with dust, and no traces of factory packaging are visible. This must be done because sellers periodically charge such batteries. A voltmeter alone is unable to determine whether the charging was carried out in good faith or whether the battery was only “driven” with high current for an hour.

What you definitely shouldn’t trust are color indicators. This toy is of little use: firstly, it shows the condition of only one can out of 6, and secondly, the white color is actually already critical.

What are the numbers: checking a new battery when purchasing with a load fork, multimeter and hydrometer

Without knowing the permissible limits of voltage fluctuations or electrolyte density, looking at instruments is pointless. And as for the load plug, it’s the same: without disclosing its parameters, the seller can slip in a “so-so” option instead of a charged current source, sometimes without realizing it.

Batteries serviced: tester + hydrometer

The well-known old-fashioned method allows you to comprehensively check a car battery upon purchase and, on this basis, issue the most accurate conclusion about its condition. Its essence is to compare the measured voltage with the density of the electrolyte in each jar. Naturally, for AGM and other maintenance-free models that do not have plugs for access to the insides of the product, this method of assessing charge is not relevant.

So, the unpacking of the batteries selected according to the required parameters took place unknown when, and the buyer’s goal is to determine a model that is in good shape: charged, and in a conscientious manner. If the product is more than six months old, we immediately put it aside: investing in such a product is risky. Every month, even an AGM battery loses about 3% of its capacity as a result of self-discharge, and retail chain owners often charge poorly. We continue to test fresh applicants:

• Measured with a voltage tester. Batteries with a potential difference of less than 12.6 V (at a temperature of +20 ... + 25 ° C) are politely eliminated due to suspicion of increased self-discharge.
• Measure the density in each jar with a hydrometer. At 12.6-12.7 V, the acceptable electrolyte density lies in the range of 1.26-1.28 g/cm3 (at +20...+25°C).

For your information . The characteristics of the electrolytic fluid and the voltage of a 100% charged battery fluctuate depending on the ambient temperature. For other figures, see the table.

Maintenance free batteries: load plug + voltmeter

The idea that checking the battery charge upon purchase will not be done with a multimeter, but will be reduced to applying a load, amuses many. It is believed that by comparing the voltage in the connected resistance mode with data from some table, one can judge the performance of the battery. In fact, the load fork test has two pitfalls:

• This method will not expose the fact of fast charging. With a reduced density and an acceptable voltage, the product is able to hold the load for the tested 5 seconds, but 100% capacity is not restored.
• The accuracy of the diagnosis depends on the capacity of the car battery and the characteristics of the plug. There is no universal table linking voltage with the amperage of the device and numbers in A*h.

The main problem is that there are no uniform requirements for the manufacture of load forks. One model can provide a load of 100 A, another – 80 A, and a third – 150 A. Let’s say that the seller managed to clarify this point. What to do with capacity: most tables on the Internet do not provide even the slightest idea of ​​what A*h figure the voltage standards are developed for.

The situation with the analysis of maintenance-free batteries is actually deplorable. In fact, the reliability of the test rests on the readings of the multimeter: the voltage of the normally open circuit (at rest) is used to judge the charge of the product. The plug only partially clears up the picture: if the voltmeter shows less than 10 V under load (at room temperature), then such a battery is to the side.

For your information . During practical measurements at 15°C, it was found that for a battery with a capacity of 55-60 A*h, a 100% charge corresponds to 10.5-10.8 V on the voltmeter of an active load plug with a consumption of 100 A. After that, the voltage gradually recovers to 12, 66-12.7 V.

Additional devices and innovative approaches to diagnostics help to increase the reliability of the results:

• Diagnostic scanner. Serious retail chains have similar equipment that comprehensively tests batteries. The accuracy of the diagnosis is close to 100%. Owners of small shops are put off by the price of such a device - 60,000 rubles and more.
• Comparison. If the seller allows, you can load test similar or the same models with the same capacity. The choice is up to who produces more volts with an active load plug (naturally, more than 10 V).

Instead of a conclusion

Even the most painstaking quality check of a car battery upon purchase, performed with all possible instruments, is not able to protect the buyer from defects. Of course, choosing one of the leaders in the battery rating is a reliable way to protect yourself from purchasing a defective product, but still. Warranties are provided by each manufacturer. Question regarding confirmation of warranty:

• After the test, carefully inspect the product for chips or deep scratches on the body.
• All tested readings must be recorded in the passport issued in hand.
• Request that the actual readings of the vehicle's on-board network (current consumption by the starter, charging from the generator, leaks) be included in the warranty card. The measurements are carried out by the staff of the retail chain.
• The on-board equipment and battery diagnostic cycle must be performed by store personnel every 6 months. They also enter the results of the intermediate check into the passport.

And finally, before use, run the new battery with low current (1-2 A) for 7-8 hours.

Checking a new battery

There are several basic methods used to test a new car battery. Each of them has its own characteristics and operating principle. Before purchasing a battery, in order to avoid further problems, you need to know what to pay attention to, first of all, the following points:

• Before purchasing, you should check the release date of the battery. Batteries should be stored in stores for no more than two years, otherwise their service life will be reduced.
• The voltage at the battery terminals should be slightly greater than the voltage of the battery itself. If the indicator on the terminals is less, most likely the battery is very discharged.
• You should check the battery case for mechanical damage, dents and scratches. If the battery breaks after purchase, you can use the warranty. The warranty period for goods imported into the Russian Federation is from 1 to 2 years. When purchased, a new battery should not have any visible damage.

Today, thanks to constantly improving technologies, there are several devices with which you can test a new battery.

Checking with a multimeter

A multimeter is a special device for measuring battery voltage, which is sold in specialized stores at an average price of 300 rubles. It is one of the easiest to use and does not require large expenses. The multimeter is suitable for working with any electronic devices, so it may be needed not only by motorists. Today there are two main types of multimeter: digital and pointer.

The first option is recommended for purchase, as it most accurately measures the battery voltage. When taking measurements, all information will be displayed on the device display.

Step-by-step instructions for measuring battery voltage using a multimeter include the following steps:

• Turning the multimeter into DC voltage measurement mode.
• Setting the switch to 20 volts.
• Connect the black probe to the negative pole (minus), the red probe to the positive pole (plus).

If the display shows 12.6 volts, the battery is charged. If the voltage is less than 12 volts, the battery is less than 50% charged. A number below 11.6 indicates the battery is completely discharged.

Using a multimeter, you can not only measure voltage, but also determine current leakage. If the current leakage is too great, the battery will discharge faster than usual. The optimal figure is no more than 60 mA, a higher figure indicates severe leakage and loss of energy.

An increased voltage during measurement is observed when the car engine is running. This is not a bad indicator - the figure should be at least 14 volts. But, if the voltage is less than 13.4 volts when the engine is running, this indicates that the car’s battery is completely discharged.

Checking with a load fork

Testing using a load fork is the most effective along with other methods. The voltage measurement time with a load fork should be no more than five seconds.

The device is connected to the battery with correct polarity. At the beginning of the measurement, the voltage should be no more than 14 volts, after five seconds it should drop to 10 volts.

This indicates that the charged battery is operating correctly. But, if the number drops below 9 volts, this indicates that the battery is severely discharged. Experts advise charging the battery in a timely manner to avoid getting into an unpleasant situation.

Checking the voltage when the engine is running

When using a multimeter to measure the voltage on a running engine, you should note the initial number - it should be approximately 13.6 volts. Next, you need to gradually turn on various sources of energy consumption - headlights, air conditioning or stove, music player, and so on. In this case, the battery voltage should drop by 0.1 or 0.2 volts, but no more.

A strong voltage drop indicates a critically low battery charge level, and therefore you need to contact a service center.

The basic relationship between voltage and battery charge in percentage:

• 12.9 volts – 90% charge
• 12.5 volts – 50% charge
• 12.1 volts - less than 10% charge

According to experts, voltage measurements should be taken in the morning, when the engine has not yet been started. It is not recommended to measure the battery voltage after the car is turned off, as the voltage reading may change the next day.

This table shows the main methods for checking the voltage of a new battery, the necessary series of actions for checking, as well as the results and their meanings.

We buy batteries at the Malinovka car market and other retail outlets in Minsk

The first frosts, which mark the beginning of the winter period of operation, thoroughly test car batteries for their ability to supply the starter with the energy necessary to reliably start the engine. If the battery has served for at least four to five years, it is not a fact that it will successfully cope with the task, and when the service life is even longer, the chances that the battery will fail the exam become much higher.

The problem is that in cold weather, the aging processes that irreversibly occur inside the battery, which, by the way, can also be accelerated by the owners’ negligence in caring for the source of electricity, are superimposed by a deterioration in the battery’s characteristics associated with low temperatures and an increase in the resistance of the cold electrolyte. As a result, the battery ceases to cope with the duties that were performed effortlessly in the summer. This explains why the beginning of winter sees a surge in demand for batteries.

To find out what customers who urgently needed a “box with electricity” can count on, we visited the Malinovka car market and some other retail outlets in Minsk.

Let's say right away: the choice is huge everywhere we were. It is especially wide among batteries, which, according to their main characteristics, are most suitable for installation on car models common in Belarus.

From questioning sellers, it turned out that for most buyers the main characteristic is battery capacity. This is a really important parameter, which determines how many attempts you can make to start the engine before the battery is depleted to the limit.

Buyers pay less attention to another important characteristic—inrush current. Meanwhile, the higher the starting current, the more force the starter cranks the crankshaft when starting, which means you can hope for a more confident start of the engine. However, the magnitude of the starting current for diesel engines is important. Therefore, owners of diesel cars are mainly interested in starting current. Owners of gasoline cars are not very concerned about the starting current, which, apparently, reduces the number of buyers who, in addition to capacity, are also curious about this parameter.

However, some buyers go to the car market without any idea of ​​the capacity and starting current that the battery they are looking for should have. The hope is that the sellers will tell you what kind of battery the buyer needs based on the car make, type and engine size.

But sellers are also different. Even retail outlets that specialize in selling batteries and have catalogs that list battery characteristics recommended for specific car models have had their share of incidents. In one of them, when making such a selection, I was advised to buy a battery with a capacity of at least 95 ampere-hours, although a “sixty-five” has been working properly in the car for five years, and the size of the battery recommended by the seller simply would not fit into the place intended for it.

But we must give the seller his due. Scratching his head, he put his catalog aside and said: no, something is wrong here. After that, calling on experience to help, he advised me to buy something with a capacity of about 70 ampere-hours and a starting current of about 600 amperes, which was actually close to what was required. In this case, what can be expected from sellers who do not specialize in batteries, but have only decided to expand their range for the winter season and extract additional benefits at the peak of demand?

In this regard, we would recommend going to the car market knowing not only the required capacity and starting current, which you can find out about either in the operating instructions or simply by looking at what these parameters are for the battery for which you are looking for a replacement, if it worked without bitch without a hitch. It also doesn’t hurt to first measure the overall dimensions of the old battery, and in addition, remember which side the positive and negative terminals are on, whether they are recessed in relation to the cover or protrude above it.

The capacity and starting current must be indicated on the labels affixed to the battery. Why you need to know the sizes is understandable.

As for the location of the terminals, there are European and Asian, according to sellers’ terminology, polarity. With European polarity, the positive terminal is always located on the right side, with Asian polarity - on the contrary. It should be borne in mind that the front side of the battery is usually facing towards the car’s interior, if you look at the battery with the hood of the engine compartment open. An error with the choice of polarity may result in the positive wire not reaching the positive terminal.

Whether the terminals are recessed in relation to the battery cover or protrude above it matters if some kind of device is provided to secure the wire to the terminal. In this case, with recessed terminals, it may be impossible to connect the wire to the terminal.

What all sellers have in common is the desire to sell a product that costs more. No matter who we approached, the very first ones offered were brand-name batteries. This was motivated by the fact that such batteries last five to six years or even more without problems, so the money paid for them will not be spent in vain. We argued that we weren't going to drive the car that much and didn't want to give it as a gift to the next owner. This caused despondency among sellers, but not for long, because in any specialized retail outlet there will always be goods not only of the highest, but also of any other price category.

The brand is the main thing that puts a battery into a particular price category. The value of the capacity and starting current has a significant impact on the cost, and whether the battery in question is serviceable, low-maintenance or maintenance-free. You can find out how much money you should take on a trip to the car market from the table.